Athy – market town where two waterways meet

Overview

Athy (Irish: Baile Átha Í) is one of the few Irish towns where two waterways cross: the River Barrow and the Grand Canal meet here in south-west County Kildare, 72 km from Dublin. It’s a designated heritage town and a member of the Irish Walled Towns Network, and with a 2022 population of 11,035 it’s the sixth-largest town in the county. The town centres on the bridge over the Barrow, the canal towpath running just to the north – a natural base for walkers, cyclists and boaters.

History

The name Athy – ‘the town of Ae’s ford’ – recalls a 2nd-century Celtic chieftain said to have been killed at the river crossing. The town grew from a 12th-century Anglo-Norman settlement under the FitzGerald earls of Kildare. The milestones since:

• 1417 – the original bridge across the Barrow was built to guard the crossing.
• 1640s–1650s – the town changed hands several times during the Confederate Wars; White’s Castle was held by Owen Roe O’Neill in 1648 and later by Cromwell’s forces.
• 1730s–1740s – the Market House was built for James FitzGerald, 20th Earl of Kildare (later 1st Duke of Leinster). It later served as a courthouse and, after Kildare County Council bought it in 1975, became the Athy Heritage Centre.
• 1791 – the Grand Canal’s Barrow Line reached Athy, linking the canal network to the River Barrow and opening a navigable route still in use.
• 1796 – the present Crom-a-Boo Bridge was laid, its foundation stone set by the Duke of Leinster.
• 1903 – Athy lay on the route of the Gordon Bennett Cup, the first international motor race in the British Isles, which gave the world British racing green.
• First World War – the town sent more volunteers than any similarly sized Irish town.
• 2022 – a mural of polar explorers Ernest Shackleton and Roald Amundsen was unveiled by the Norwegian ambassador; the ESB sub-station blocking the view was later moved.

Sitting on the edge of the Pale, where Irish, Norman and English mixed, Athy also played a part in the development of Hiberno-English.

What to see and do

Heritage and museums

• The Shackleton Experience (Shackleton Museum) – in the Market House on Emily Square, this redeveloped museum reopened in October 2025 with a permanent exhibition on Sir Ernest Shackleton: an original expedition sledge, a large-scale model of the Endurance and immersive digital displays. If you only do one indoor thing in Athy, do this. The museum café, Ernie’s, seats just 15, so expect a wait at busy times.
  • Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10am–5pm (last admission 4pm); closed Sundays, Mondays and public holidays.
  • Ticket prices (at the time of writing): Adult €17.00 (€15.00 online) · Senior & Student €15.00 (€14.45 online) · Child (12–17) €13.00 (€12.50 online) · Child (5–11) €11.50 (€11.00 online) · Family (2A+2C) €52.00 (€48.00 online) · Under 5 & carers free.
  • Website: The Shackleton Experience
• Shackleton Autumn School – each October the town hosts a weekend of polar talks and workshops built around Shackleton’s legacy.
• Athy Library – in the former Dominican Church, serving south Kildare and hosting community exhibitions.

Castles and historic sites

• White’s Castle – a tower house guarding the Barrow bridge, its stone front still dominating the riverside. Most of the town’s castles are exterior-only.
• Kilkea Castle – a short drive north-west, a medieval FitzGerald stronghold now run as a luxury hotel with historic tours.
• Woodstock Castle – a ruined castle on the west bank of the Barrow.
• Levitstown Mill – a ruined seven-storey mill with its own jetty on the Barrow.
• Moat of Ardscull – an 11 m-high 12th-century motte on the R418.
• St John’s Cemetery – the remains of the 13th-century Monastery of St John and the Hospital of St Thomas.
• Moone High Cross – a short drive south, this 1,200-year-old cross is the second-tallest high cross in Ireland.
• Market House / Athy Heritage Centre – the 18th-century corn exchange and courthouse.

Outdoor and water activities

• Kayaking on the Barrow – self-guided or guided trips launch from the jetty beside the Shackleton Experience. The calm stretch between Athy and Lowtown suits beginners; stronger paddlers can take on the river’s bends and old weirs.
• Athy Boat Tours – run by BoatTrips.ie on the wheelchair-accessible ‘Freedom on the Water’ barge.
  • Public tours: 1-hour cruise €20 per person; family ticket (2 adults, 2 children) €56.
  • Private charters: 1-hour €200, 2-hour €350, 3-hour €450 (up to 12 passengers). Book ahead. Phone: 087 4335350 or 087 2061999. Website: BoatTrips.ie.
• Barrow Blueway – a 47 km towpath from Lowtown to Athy for walking or cycling, past historic bridges, weirs and Levitstown Mill. It is part of the longer Barrow Way.
• Burtown House & Gardens – an early Georgian house a short drive out, with a 10-acre garden of orchards, a walled garden and wildflower meadows, plus an art gallery, a café using local produce, and guided house tours.
• Four Potts Well – an odd Grand Canal overflow structure just north of town, a short detour off the towpath.
• Athy Golf Club – an 18-hole parkland course (par 72), 6,475 yd off the championship tees. Details: Athy Golf Club.
• K Leisure Athy – a public gym and pool, open weekdays 6am–9pm.
• People’s Park – a riverside park planted with trees from around the world, recently upgraded with new paths and picnic benches.

Culture and nightlife

• Frank O’Brien’s Bar – voted one of Ireland’s top ten pubs in 1999, and still good for a trad session and a pint.
• Levi’s Bar, Anderson’s, Clancy’s – more pubs along Leinster Street.
• Athy Community Arts Centre – exhibitions, performances and workshops.
• Made of Athy Music Trail – self-guided plaques marking musicians linked to the town, including Johnny Marr.

Markets

• Emily Square Market – weekly on Tuesdays, 9am–2pm: local produce, crafts and food.

Events

• Athy Agricultural Show (each August) – livestock, craft stalls and live music.
• Seasonal music sessions – regular trad evenings at Frank O’Brien’s Bar and the Community Arts Centre, busiest in summer.

Practical information

Getting there

• By train – Athy station is on the Dublin–Waterford line. Trains from Dublin Heuston run every 2–3 hours and take about 45 minutes.
• By bus – JJ Kavanagh route 717 and Go-Ahead Ireland routes 130/130a serve Athy frequently, and Local Link 817 connects Kilkenny, Castlecomer and Athy.
• By car – the N78 (now re-aligned to meet the M9 near Mullamast) runs through Athy; the old N78 section is the R418.
• River – the Barrow Navigation is part of the national waterways network, with boat hire and tours from the jetty beside the Shackleton Experience.

Visitor essentials

• Parking – pay parking in the town centre is run by Apcoa; some on-street bays give the first hour free. There’s also a car park at the western end of the Crom-a-Boo Bridge.
• Accessibility – the Athy Boat Tours barge is wheelchair-accessible; most castles are exterior-only and have limited access.
• Accommodation – the 4-star Clanard Court Hotel and the historic Burtown House & Gardens (self-catering B&B), both a short drive out.

Useful contacts

• The Shackleton Experience – bookings@shackletonexperience.ie
• Athy Boat Tours – 087 4335350 or 087 2061999
• Athy Golf Club – https://www.athygolfclub.com/website/

Athy is small enough to cover on foot, with the Barrow and the canal taking over where the streets run out. For a single afternoon, the museum and a walk along the Blueway are the pick.