Overview
The tower of Ballintoy Parish Church looks stubby for a reason: a hurricane in December 1894 tore the steeple off, sent part of it through the roof, and it was never rebuilt. What’s left sits on a rise above the working harbour, the most northerly church in the Diocese of Connor, with Rathlin Island and – on a clear day – the Scottish coast out to sea. It’s an active Church of Ireland church and a Grade B+ listed building, free to enter and open during daylight hours. Most people come for the setting rather than the interior: the harbour just below stood in as the Iron Islands in Game of Thrones, and Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge is ten minutes up the coast.
History & Architecture
The current stone structure was completed in 1813 to a plan by Henry Wynne, built under the auspices of Rev. Robert Trail. Trail wanted a dignified, practical space for a growing community, and the resulting building reflects the restrained elegance typical of early-19th-century rural Irish churches. The site itself has deeper roots: records point to a chapel of ease here in the early 1600s, likely serving Ballintoy Castle. During the 1641 uprising, the church and castle sheltered local Protestant settlers for four months before relief forces arrived in May 1642.
The church was rebuilt in 1663 and granted full parochial status, carved from the larger parish of Billy. It underwent several upgrades throughout the 19th century:
- 1857 – A pipe organ from Dublin’s Telford & Telford was installed for £37.
- 1883 – Rev. John McNeice oversaw a major refurbishment, adding a new pulpit, pews, tiled flooring and heating, while repairing the roof and steeple.
- December 1894 – A hurricane struck the north coast, tearing off the steeple; part of it crashed through the roof, headstones were blown over, houses in the village were damaged and several boats at the harbour destroyed. The steeple was never rebuilt.
Architecturally, the church is two bays long with a single north transept. The tower incorporates stonework from an earlier phase, rising above the nave to anchor the building against the sky. Between the nave and transept sits a small chapel or baptistry, now used as a quiet reflection space.
Key Features to Look For
Several objects inside and outside the church directly tie the building to its maritime setting and early colonial history:
- Sun-dial and tide clock – Mounted on the west exterior wall and dated 1817, this dual instrument tracks both solar hours and tidal movements. It was likely placed by Rev. Trail to help locals and sailors plan their day around the harbour’s rhythm.
- Historic bell – Fixed to the tower wall, the bell carries three inscriptions tracing the Stewart family’s involvement: “Archibald Stewart gave me: Charles, his son, re-cast me, anno 1686 and Archibald the son of Charles re-cast and augmented me anno 1718”. It is no longer rung.
- Communion plate – The silver chalice is reputed to have been made before 1638 by Dublin silversmith James Vanderbeg, and was presented to the church by Sara Stewart of Ballintoy Castle in 1684. It is kept under lock and key, typically displayed during heritage open days or special services.
- Stained glass – Two windows light the interior, one showing Saint Patrick at Slemish mountain. A plaque remembers David Elder Jamieson, who died aboard HMS Defence at the Battle of Jutland in 1916.
The Graveyard
The churchyard is a well-preserved record of north-Antrim families. The oldest legible headstone belongs to James McKinlay, who died in February 1696. Notable interments include the Stewarts of Ballintoy, the Downing Fullertons and the Stewart-Moore family. Rev. Robert Trail (d. 1842), who built the present church, served the parish for 66 years – its longest-serving minister – and is buried here alongside Rev. Henry Carter (d. 1867). Beneath the communion table inside, two early 17th-century freestone slabs mark the resting places of Barnarda Stewart (d. 1663) and Nicholas Stewart (d. 1667), and a stone on the tower displays the coats of arms of three Stewarts who died in the 1700s.
The graveyard also holds war graves from the First World War: sailors lost from HMS Racoon and HMS Viknor, both wrecked off this coast in 1915. The inscriptions are carefully kept and largely legible, so tracing a north-Antrim line here is more rewarding than most.
Practical Information
- Admission: Free. No tickets or booking required.
- Opening hours: Open during daylight hours; the interior may be locked outside services, so time a visit for the day if you want to see inside.
- Parking: There is limited parking down at the harbour, from where it’s a short, steep walk uphill to the church. The narrow harbour road can clog in summer.
- Accessibility: The approach involves a steady incline and uneven stone paths. The site is not fully wheelchair accessible.
- Special access: The 17th-century communion plate is occasionally brought out for heritage open days or memorial services. Check local parish notices or village information boards for dates.
Getting There
Ballintoy sits on the B15 coastal route, roughly 5 miles west of Ballycastle. The church is visible from the main road and a short walk from the harbour car park. Public transport does not serve the village directly, so most visitors arrive by car or join a guided coastal tour. If you are cycling or walking the Causeway Coastal Route, the church makes a logical rest stop before heading further west toward the cliffs.
Visiting Tips
As an active parish, the church hosts regular services and community events. Keep voices low if you visit during a service, and avoid using flash photography inside the nave to protect the original woodwork and glass. The exterior stonework and the tide clock photograph best in the low light of early morning or late afternoon. When you’re done in the churchyard, walk the ten minutes down to the harbour itself – it’s the Game of Thrones view, and the better half of the visit.