Overview
Since 2017 you can’t actually reach Ballycarbery Castle. The ivy-draped tower-house stands on private land just west of Cahersiveen, fenced off on safety grounds after its back wall collapsed, and the nearest you’ll get is a small car park about 100 m off. For a photograph that’s close enough – the castle reads best from a distance anyway, silhouetted above the mouth of the River Fertha with Valentia Island beyond.
What still earns the detour are the two early-medieval stone ringforts a short walk from the same road: Cahergall and Leacanabuaile, often called the Cahercarbery Forts. Both are free, open year-round, and in far better repair than the castle. If you have only half an hour, give it to Cahergall.
The Castle: A MacCarthy Stronghold
The rectangular tower-house rises from a low rise, its green-stone walls over nine feet thick at the base, with a projecting corner tower and the remains of a bawn – the walled enclosure that once protected the courtyard. It went up in the 16th century, built by the MacCarthy Mór, the Gaelic dynasty that dominated much of southwest Munster; a residence may have stood on the site as far back as 1398.
Through the Elizabethan wars the O’Connell clan – ancestors of Daniel O’Connell, the Liberator – served as its constables. Ownership passed to Sir Valentine Browne in the 1590s, and in 1652 the castle was battered by cannon fire during the War of the Three Kingdoms, which is roughly when it was left to ruin. The interior is unsafe and the grounds are private, so take it in from the car park or the roadside rather than the walls.
The Stone Forts: Cahergall and Leacanabuaile
A short walk north brings you to the stone ringforts. These dry-stone monuments represent the everyday lives of early Irish settlers and offer a contrast in age and function.
Cahergall Cashel
Built around 600 AD, Cahergall belongs to a wave of roughly 60,000 ringforts constructed across Ireland between the 6th and 9th centuries. Its walls are impressive, rising up to six metres high and three metres thick. Inside, a central drystone hut spans over six metres in diameter. Excavations in the 1990s revealed evidence of a thriving settlement, including a hearth, iron slag, quern fragments, and bronze scraps, pointing to on-site metalworking and grain processing. The fort’s elevated position suggests it was a defended farmstead for a wealthy chieftain.
Leacanabuaile Cashel
Dating to the 9th or 10th century, Leacanabuaile offers a glimpse into early Christian domestic life. A circular wall, three metres thick, encloses a 20-metre diameter interior shielded by steep grassy slopes on three sides. The site is notable for its three stone beehive houses (clochán) and a souterrain – an underground passage used for storage or refuge. Artefacts uncovered in the late 1930s, such as iron knives, bone combs, and millstones, highlight the self-sufficient nature of this community.
What to See & Do
The two forts sit within about a kilometre of each other on uneven, exposed ground; the castle you take in from the car park along the way.
- Photography: From the car park, the castle silhouette against the Atlantic and the River Fertha estuary is the classic shot. Clear days stretch the view toward the Skellig Coast and Valentia Harbour.
- Exploring the forts: At Cahergall, examine the scale of the dry-stone walls and look into the central hut where safe. At Leacanabuaile, explore the beehive houses and the entrance to the souterrain. Note that the souterrain may be closed during wet weather for safety.
- Walking: The loop combines history with coastal scenery. The terrain is uneven and exposed to Atlantic winds, so sturdy shoes and a windproof jacket are essential. Spring and early summer bring wildflowers to the surrounding hills, adding colour to the stone ruins.
Practical Information
The forts are free and open year-round, with no formal hours or guided tours. The castle itself is closed – private land since 2017 – and can only be viewed from a distance.
- Car Parking: A small car park sits off the N70 about 100 m from the castle, not beside it. It holds roughly 15 vehicles and fills quickly in summer, so arrive early.
- Accessibility: The site features uneven ground, stone steps, and rough paths. It is not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs.
- Facilities: There are no amenities on-site. Toilets and food outlets are available in Cahersiveen, about 5 km away. Pack a snack and water, especially on warm days.
- Visitor Guidelines: Stay on designated paths and do not climb the stone walls. Respect the preservation rules set by the Office of Public Works (OPW) to protect these ancient structures.
Getting There
The site is located off the N70, a few kilometres west of Cahersiveen.
- By Car: The N70 is the most direct route. Follow signs for Ballycarbery Castle from Cahersiveen. The drive offers scenic views of the surrounding countryside.
- Public Transport: Local Link Kerry runs from Killarney to Coláiste na Sceilge near Cahersiveen; from there it’s a taxi or a 5 km walk to reach the site.
- Nearby Stops: While in the area, consider the Old Barracks heritage centre in Cahersiveen or the massive Staigue Fort a few kilometres on. Valentia Island and the Skellig Ring are also within easy reach for a fuller day.
Come early for the fifteen-odd parking spaces, wear boots for the forts, and don’t waste time looking for a way past the fence to the castle – there isn’t one any more.