Overview
The Bangor Trail runs for roughly 35 km between Bangor Erris and Newport without touching a public road. That is its whole point. For hours at a stretch there is no building, no signpost beyond the trail’s own waymarks, and often no phone signal – only blanket bog, streams to ford, and the Nephin Beg range rising on either side. Most walkers now start at the Letterkeen trailhead in the south and finish at Bangor Erris, which puts the steeper ground behind you early. A full traverse takes ten to twelve hours, and plenty of people split it over two days, using the restored bothy at Letterkeen and a volunteer-built shelter in the Srahmore valley for the night in between.
Be honest with yourself about the ground first. Much of the walk is wet underfoot from the first hour, the scenery is austere rather than postcard, and in mist the bog and the sky turn the same grey. You do this walk for the remoteness, not for a view every ten minutes. If you only want a taste, walk the southern half from Letterkeen up to the Scardaun Loughs and back – it holds the best of the mountain scenery without committing you to the full day.
History & Legend
Long before it drew hikers, this was a working drovers’ road. Records confirm its formal use from the 16th century onwards, though local lore points to an older Celtic origin. Cattle herders engineered the line to balance two competing needs: low enough to spare the animals exhausting climbs, high enough to keep clear of the deepest, waterlogged peat. The naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger captured the isolation in 1937, calling it “the very loneliest place in this country.” With no roads built since, that has barely changed.
The route carries its own legends too. Walkers pass near Slieve Carr, reckoned Ireland’s most remote summit, where the 18th-century highwayman Daithí Bán is said to have made his stand. Other stories tell of a young woman whose ghost is said to wander the bog – a reminder of the hard lives once lived in these hills.
What to See & Do
The trail moves through a succession of stark, open landscapes. Early sections skirt the edge of a conifer plantation before the ground opens onto the expansive blanket bog that defines the Nephin Beg range. The path climbs gradually toward the Scardaun Loughs, twin glacial lakes set in a U-shaped valley between 627-metre Nephin Beg and 721-metre Slieve Carr.
Move quietly and the wildlife shows itself. Otter tracks turn up beside the Owenduff and Tarsaghaunmore rivers, which cut through the bog and run straight to the Atlantic. On clear days you may spot red deer, Irish hares and grouse across the open moor, while ravens and buzzards work the higher ridges; golden eagles have also been reported over the range. The rivers hold salmon in season.
Human traces persist along the way: the ruins of 19th-century farmsteads, and a lone, wind-sculpted oak that marks the old droving corridor. The trail is a cornerstone of the Wild Nephin project, which aims to designate the area as Ireland’s first national wilderness, and it ties directly into the management of neighbouring Wild Nephin National Park.
Practical Information
This is not a walk for beginners. Waterproof hiking boots, gaiters, a reliable map, a compass and a head-torch are all essential. The route is waymarked with posts at regular intervals, but visibility drops fast in mist or heavy rain, so you need to be able to navigate without them. Late spring through early autumn gives the most forgiving conditions, though well-prepared winter walkers find the landscape at its most dramatic.
Access points
- Letterkeen Trailhead (south): Ample parking, a port-a-loo, and the Brogan Carroll Bothy. View on Google Maps.
- Bangor Erris (north): The traditional northern terminus, with a small playground and a parking area. View on Google Maps.
Overnight logistics Splitting the walk is well worth it. The Brogan Carroll Bothy at Letterkeen gives you a secure, stone-walled base for an early start. Further along, volunteers from Mountain Meitheal have built a three-sided wooden shelter with a sleeping platform for up to six. Book the hut ahead if you can. It is a roof only – bring your own sleeping bag, ground sheet and camping gear.
Safety & regulations
- The blanket bog is deep and spongy in places; trekking poles save energy and keep you upright.
- Mobile reception is patchy to non-existent across the Nephin Beg hills. Always leave your route and expected return time with someone reliable.
- The trail crosses several small streams and open water channels. A waterproof pack cover or dry bags will keep the essentials dry.
- There is no admission charge and the trail is free to walk. Dogs are welcome on a lead, in line with National Parks guidance.
Getting there & nearby stops
The trailheads are easiest to reach from Westport (about 30 km) or Ballina (around 45 km east). Both have regular bus connections from Dublin and Galway, after which you’ll need a car or a local taxi to reach the trail starts.
With extra time in North Mayo, Wild Nephin National Park adds more waymarked walks, wildlife hides and deeper access into the Nephin Beg range. The Bangor Trail also runs beneath the Mayo Dark Sky Reserve, one of Europe’s largest certified dark-sky areas, so a clear night here is a serious stargazing opportunity.
The single most useful piece of logistics: in July and August a shuttle bus runs between Bangor Erris and Newport, stopping at the national park visitor centre. On a one-way walk it is the simplest way to get back to your car without arranging two vehicles.