Overview
The Bangor Trail is a long-distance walking route that cuts through the heart of Erris in North Mayo. Covering roughly 24 to 28 kilometres with about 900 metres of elevation gain, it follows a roadless landscape dominated by blanket bog, shallow streams, and ancient stone tracks. While traditionally walked from the coastal village of Bangor Erris to the inland town of Newport, most hikers now reverse the direction, starting at the Letterkeen Trailhead and finishing at Bangor Erris. A full traverse typically demands 10 to 12 hours of walking. Because of the terrain and weather exposure, many visitors split the journey over two days, using the restored bothy at Letterkeen and a volunteer-built shelter in the Srahmore valley for an overnight stop.
History & Legend
Long before it became a destination for modern hikers, this route served as a vital drovers’ road. Historical records confirm its formal use from the 16th century onwards, though local folklore points to an older Celtic origin. Cattle herders carefully engineered the path to balance two competing needs: keeping the route low enough to avoid exhausting climbs, yet high enough to stay above the deepest, waterlogged peat. The naturalist Robert Lloyd Praeger captured the area’s isolation in 1937, calling it “the very loneliest place in this country.” That sense of remoteness remains intact today, amplified by the absence of modern road networks.
The trail is also steeped in local legend. Walkers pass near Slieve Carr, Ireland’s most remote summit, where 18th-century highwayman Daithí Bán is said to have made his stand. Local stories also speak of a tragic young woman whose spirit is said to wander the bogland, a reminder of the harsh lives once lived in these hills.
What to See & Do
The Bangor Trail delivers a succession of stark, atmospheric landscapes. Early sections skirt the edge of a conifer plantation before opening onto the expansive blanket bog that defines the Nephin Beg range. The path gradually climbs toward the Scardaun Loughs, twin glacial lakes resting in a U-shaped valley between 627-metre Nephin Beg and the towering 721-metre Slieve Carr.
Wildlife sightings are common for those who move quietly. Otter tracks frequently appear beside the Owenduff and Tarsaghaunmore rivers, which cut through the bog and flow directly to the Atlantic. On clear days, red deer, Irish hares, and various grouse species can be spotted across the open moorland, while ravens and buzzards patrol the higher ridges. The rivers also offer opportunities for salmon spotting during the appropriate seasons.
Human history leaves its mark along the route. Ruins of 19th-century farmsteads dot the landscape, alongside a lone, wind-sculpted oak that stands as a silent marker of the old droving corridor. The trail is a cornerstone of the Wild Nephin Project, an initiative working toward designating the area as Ireland’s first national wilderness. This effort is closely tied to the management of nearby Ballycroy National Park.
Practical Information
This is not a walk for beginners. Proper waterproof hiking boots, gaiters, a reliable map, compass, and a head-torch are essential equipment. While the route is waymarked with posts at regular intervals, visibility drops quickly in mist or heavy rain, making basic navigation skills necessary. Late spring through early autumn offers the most favourable conditions, though winter walkers who are well-prepared find the landscape particularly striking.
Access points
- Letterkeen Trailhead (south): Features ample parking, a clean port-a-loo, and the Brogan Carroll Bothy. View on Google Maps.
- Bangor Erris (north): The traditional northern terminus, with a small playground and parking area. View on Google Maps.
Overnight logistics Splitting the walk is highly recommended. The Brogan Carroll Bothy at Letterkeen provides a secure, stone-walled base for an early start. Further along the route, volunteers from Mountain Meitheal have constructed a three-sided wooden shelter with a sleeping platform for up to six people. Booking this hut in advance is advisable. It is a roof-only structure, so you must bring your own sleeping bag, ground sheet, and personal camping gear.
Safety & regulations
- The blanket bog can be surprisingly deep and spongy; trekking poles are strongly recommended to conserve energy and maintain stability.
- Mobile phone reception is patchy across the Nephin Beg hills. Always leave your planned route and expected return time with someone reliable.
- The trail crosses multiple small streams and open water channels. A waterproof pack cover or dry bags will keep your essentials intact.
- There is no admission charge, and the trail is free to access. Dogs are welcome on a lead, in line with National Parks guidelines.
Getting there & nearby stops
The trailheads are most easily reached from Westport (approximately 30 km north) or Ballina (around 45 km east). Both towns offer regular bus connections from Dublin and Galway, after which a rental car or local taxi is needed to reach the trail starts.
If you have extra time in North Mayo, the surrounding landscape offers several complementary stops. Ballycroy National Park provides additional waymarked walks, wildlife hides, and access to the Mweelrea mountain range. A short forest walk from the park’s main car park leads to Aasleagh Falls, a scenic cascade set in a wooded glen. The Bangor Trail itself passes beneath the Mayo Dark Sky Reserve, one of Europe’s largest certified dark sky areas, making it an excellent location for stargazing on clear nights.
Check the weather forecast carefully before setting out, pack enough high-energy food and water for a full day, and allow extra time for photo stops at the Scardaun Loughs. The trail rewards preparation with a genuine sense of wilderness that is increasingly rare in Ireland.