Overview and naming
Ben Lugmore (Irish Binn Log Mhór, ‘peak of the big hollow’) is an 803 m summit on the northern arm of the Mweelrea massif in south Mayo – the 39th-highest mountain in Ireland, the second-highest in the Mweelrea group and the third-highest point in Mayo. The ‘big hollow’ is Lug More, also called Coum Dubh, the deep cliff-lined corrie gouged into the north-east face. The peak sits between Killary Harbour, Ireland’s only true fjord, to the south and the dark waters of Doo Lough to the north.
From below it reads as a long, sharp crest studded with tops: Ben Lugmore West Top and East Top flank the main summit, roughly matched in height and split by narrow cols. With 158 m of prominence it counts as a Marilyn and a Hewitt, which keeps the peak-baggers coming.
The corrie and the cliffs
The rock is the Mweelrea Formation, Ordovician sandstone laid down in ancient river deltas, with bands of volcanic ash tuff running through it – a different beast from the quartzite of the Twelve Bens across the water. Weathering has left steep headwalls, airy ridges and, on the north-east side, the serious part: cliffs dropping close to 600 m into the corrie. These are not to be wandered near in poor visibility. In July 2009 an experienced hiker died in a fall close to the West Top, and the ground here gives no second chances.
Down in the valley along the R335, a plain stone cross marks the Doolough Tragedy of 1849, when nearly 400 people – already starving – died on the road after being refused relief at Delphi Lodge. It’s worth a pause on the way in.
Summit routes
The direct climb up The Ramp
The straightforward way up follows the Lug More corrie, about three hours round trip. The path works up the valley to The Ramp, a rock ledge that slants diagonally across the corrie headwall and gives a graded, non-technical line onto the summit ridge. From the top of the ramp the ridge runs north-west to a col by Ben Bury, then up to the main cairn. It’s sure-footed walking with real exposure, not a stroll.
The Mweelrea Horseshoe
For a full day, Ben Lugmore is one of the high points on the Mweelrea Horseshoe, a circuit of the massif’s main summits that runs 6 to 7 hours and finishes down the Glenconnelly valley. It’s often rated among the best mountain walks in Ireland, and it asks for fitness, navigation and comfort on sustained rocky ground.
Lower and lakeside walks
If the tops aren’t the plan, the shore of Doo Lough gives easy walking with short, low climbs onto the lower flanks. Peregrine falcons hunt the open valley, so it’s good watching on a still day.
Rock and winter climbing
The north-east cliffs above The Ramp and the crags at the corrie mouth (Askaneeraun and Teevaree Rocks on the OS map) are established climbing venues, with trad multi-pitch routes from Diff to Moderate Severe over 30 to 70 m of sandstone and conglomerate. Harder lines added from the late 1980s on include Bragela’s Watch (E1, 30 m), Red Dawn (E2 5c, 45 m) and Letter to Breshnev (E3/4 6a, 55 m). In winter the corrie becomes a genuine ice objective: Recession Gully on the north-east face is graded II/III and needs the full kit and avalanche awareness.
Practical information
- Grid reference: L81173 67379 (OS Sheet 37)
- Elevation / prominence: 803 m / 158 m
- Parking: The usual start is a pull-in at grid ref L84117 65157, just south of Fin Lough off the R335 – free, with limited spaces. There is no dedicated car park at Delphi itself.
- Facilities: None on the mountain. Westport and Newport have the cafés, shops and beds.
- Navigation: Mobile coverage is patchy across Mweelrea. Carry the OS map, a compass and a charged GPS.
- Weather: Summer and early autumn give the firmest footing and the longest days; September and October suit the rock climbing, with drier stone.
- Descent: Walkers report the final drop on the direct loop is steep and greasy when wet. Bearing right before the last headwall to follow the river valley back is the safer exit.
Getting there and nearby
The approach is by road from Westport or Newport on the R335, past the Killary turn and along Doo Lough to the Fin Lough pull-in. There is effectively no public transport to the trailhead, so drive or arrange a taxi.
From here you’re on the edge of the wider Wild Nephin country. Ballycroy National Park to the north protects raised bog and old oak woodland, and Annagh Lough Woods to the west has gentler forest trails if the legs have had enough.
Check the Met Éireann mountain forecast before you go, keep well back from the corrie edge in cloud, and aim to be off the ridge with daylight to spare.