Overview
Benlettery (Irish: Binn Leitrí, “peak of the wet hillsides”) is the southernmost of Connemara’s Twelve Bens and, at 577 m, the 11th-tallest of the twelve – which is exactly what recommends it as a first climb in the range. Its pyramid shape stands over Ballynahinch Castle and Ballynahinch Lake, and unlike most of the Bens it starts from a doorstep: the Ben Lettery Hostel sits right at its foot on the N59, inside Connemara National Park, County Galway.
One oddity worth flagging: the sources can’t agree on the height. Most, including MountainViews, give 577 m; the Wikipedia infobox says 557 m. On the ground the difference is twenty metres of bog you won’t notice.
The peak is one of six Bens ringing the Glencoaghan valley, so a short outing can turn into a very long one. Climb it on its own in a half-day, or use it as the opening move of the Glencoaghan Horseshoe.
History and naming
The Irish name Binn Leitrí means “peak of the wet hillsides”, which the blanket bog on its southern slopes earns daily. An older name survives in the records: Binn Dúghlais (“peak of the black stream”), written down as Bindowglass in 1684 by the Galway historian Ruaidhrí Ó Flaithbheartaigh. He also passed on a local tale of a pool near the summit that turned the hair of anyone who washed in it white. The pool has long since drained into the peat; the story hasn’t.
Hiking routes
Benlettery is almost always climbed from the hostel on the southern slope. Every route here is unmarked – you navigate by ridgeline and the odd stone cairn, not by signposts.
| Route | Distance (round trip) | Approx. time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standalone climb | 5 km | 2–3 h | Direct up and down; a half-day outing |
| Three Bens loop | 7 km | 3–4 h | Adds Bengower and Benglenisky along the ridge |
| Glencoaghan Horseshoe | 16 km | 8–9 h | The classic Bens traverse, taking in Bencorr, Derryclare and the full circuit |
| Owenglin Horseshoe | 20 km | 10–12 h | The big one – a full day on the ridges |
Summit views
The reward is a clean 360-degree panorama:
- South: Ballynahinch Lake and the grounds of Ballynahinch Castle, directly below.
- West: the Atlantic coast and the island of Inishbofin toward the horizon.
- North: the higher core Bens, including Bengower (664 m) and, on a clear day, Connemara’s highest, Benbaun (729 m).
Trailhead and hostel
The Ben Lettery Hostel is the trailhead, and a good one: an independently run place with 40 beds, a proper kitchen open 8am–10pm, a wood stove in the lounge, and a drying room that earns its keep in Connemara. Breakfast is free and light – homemade bread, flapjacks, fruit, coffee. A towel-hire scheme puts half its takings to the Simon Community, and out the back, “The Hollows” offers three bell tents for glamping with indoor facilities nearby. Check-in is from 5pm; the postcode is H91 Y796.
Getting there
- By car: from Galway city, head west on the N59 toward Clifden (about 1–1.5 hours). The hostel is right on the N59, roughly 8 km west of Recess; from Clifden it’s a 15–20 minute drive.
- By public transport: daily buses run the N59 between Galway and Clifden – Bus Éireann (Route 419) and Michael Nee Coaches. You can ask to be set down at the hostel gate, or get off at Canal Bridge and walk about 30 minutes.
- Parking: free, directly outside the hostel. The lot fills quickly in peak summer, so come early.
Trail conditions and navigation
The ascent begins through sheep-grazed meadow before steepening onto a broad, grassy ramp. The lower slopes turn to sponge after rain, with hidden peat holes in the bog; near the top the ground firms up to rock. Because the route is unmarked, navigation matters – a line of knee-high cairns marks the final ridge, and in poor visibility the hostel lights below make a useful reference for the descent.
Essential tips:
- Navigation: carry a physical map or a downloaded offline map (Maps.me, AllTrails). Signal can be intermittent in the valleys.
- Footwear: waterproof boots with ankle support, given the boggy ground.
- Timing: start early. Light fades quickly in Connemara, and descending unmarked bog in the dark is no fun.
- Gear: headlamp, warm layers, and at least 1–1.5 litres of water each. There is nothing on the mountain itself.
Nearby attractions
- Ballynahinch Castle and Hotel: on the lake’s edge, with dining and access to the Ballynahinch fishery.
- Connemara Greenway: a cycling and walking trail along the old railway line toward Clifden, starting near the hostel.
- Inishbofin: a short ferry from Cleggan reaches the island for coastal walks and seal spotting.
If you climb one Ben and no more, make it this one: a couple of hours up and down, a summit that lays out the rest of the range, and a hot shower waiting at the bottom. Just start early and check the cloud base – the top disappears into it more often than not.