Overview
Crossing the water to Bere Island feels like stepping into a quieter, older Ireland. Just a short ferry ride from Castletownbere, this 10-kilometre-long island sits at the dramatic entrance to Bantry Bay. With a resident population of around 200, the island balances a close-knit community with a landscape that reads like an open-air museum. Bronze Age wedge tombs share the horizon with four early 19th-century Martello towers, a signal tower, and the remnants of a Victorian military battery. The terrain is compact but varied, rising to 270 metres at Knockanallig, where views stretch across the Caha and Slieve Miskish mountains.
A Living History
Human presence here stretches back millennia. The Ardaragh Wedge Tomb, often called the ‘Druids’ Altar’, is one of the finest early Bronze Age burial chambers in the region. Later, the island became the stronghold of the O’Sullivan-Bere clan until English forces recognised its strategic importance in the early 1600s. Sir George Carew ordered a road across the island in 1602 to move troops for the Siege of Dunboy, a route that still influences the island’s layout today.
The failed French expedition of 1796, led by Lazare Hoche, prompted the British to fortify the island in earnest. By 1805, four Martello towers were completed, accompanied by a signal tower, barracks, and storehouses to protect the deep-water anchorage of Berehaven. Fortifications continued into the late 19th century with the construction of Lonehort Battery.
Bere Island holds a unique place in modern Irish history. After the 1922 Anglo-Irish Treaty, Berehaven remained a British Treaty Port until 1938. For a decade, it was one of the very few locations in the Republic where foreign troops remained stationed. Today, the Bere Island Heritage Centre in Ballinakilla preserves this legacy through photographs, artefacts, and genealogical records.
What to See & Do
Walking and Coastal Trails
The island is threaded with marked trails that form part of the Beara Way. The Rerrin Loop is a manageable 6.3-kilometre circuit that takes roughly three hours and offers gentle coastal views. For a more substantial challenge, the Ardnakinna West Loop covers 7.5 kilometres and climbs to the lighthouse, rewarding walkers with 360-degree views of Bantry Bay and the surrounding islands. Cyclists can follow the quiet country roads linking the ferry terminals, enjoying sweeping vistas and minimal traffic.
Historic Landmarks
The four Martello towers – Cloughland, Ardagh, Lonehort, and Rerrin – stand as sentinel points around the island. Each offers a different perspective, from sheltered coves to the open Atlantic. Lonehort Battery is the most intact military site, featuring two six-inch guns, underground magazines, and a deep moat. Guided tours are occasionally available, but the site can also be explored independently.
The Ardnakinna Lighthouse, visible for miles, marks the western tip of the island. The climb to the lighthouse is steep but manageable, and the vantage point is one of the best spots for spotting marine life.
Wildlife and Nature
The waters around Bere Island are rich with marine life. Between July and December, the area is known for sightings of minke whales, dolphins, and basking sharks. On land, the island is a stronghold for choughs, the red-legged corvids that nest on the coastal cliffs. Scairt Beach and the hidden coves along the south coast provide quiet spaces for swimming and picnics, though visitors should always check tide tables before venturing to isolated stretches of sand.
Getting There & Practical Information
Bere Island is accessible only by ferry, and both services operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Advance bookings are not possible, so arriving early is essential, particularly during peak summer months and on weekends.
- Bere Island Ferries: Departs from Castletownbere (opposite the SuperValu) to Oilean na gCaorach at the west end of the island. The crossing takes 15 minutes. In summer, services run frequently between 07:45 and 20:30. Winter schedules are reduced but still offer daily connections.
- Murphy’s Ferry: Departs from the Pontoon (east of Castletownbere) to Rerrin Village on the east end. The crossing takes 30 minutes. Summer services run up to ten times daily, while winter schedules offer five to six crossings on weekdays.
Each ferry can carry up to four cars and 75 passengers. If you are travelling by car, allow extra time for boarding.
Amenities and Accommodation
Free parking is available at both ferry terminals and near Rerrin Village. Public toilets are located at the piers and in the village centre. The island has a handful of pubs and eateries, including O’Sullivan’s Bar in Rerrin, which offers traditional music and meals.
Accommodation options range from the family-run Bere Island Hotel and various B&Bs to self-catering cottages. For a more rugged experience, Wild Atlantic Glamping offers luxury bell tents with private terraces.
Visitor Tips
- Check the tides: Several beaches and coastal paths are only accessible at low tide.
- Pack layers: The island’s exposure means weather can change quickly, even in summer.
- Respect private property: While the trails and historic sites are open to the public, the island is a working community. Keep dogs under control and stay on marked paths.