Overview
Bere Island guards the mouth of Bantry Bay, and for a decade after Irish independence it stayed in British hands – one of three Treaty Ports the Royal Navy held until 1938. That long military history is written all over it: four early 19th-century Martello towers, a signal tower and a Victorian gun battery share the skyline with Bronze Age wedge tombs.
A short ferry from Castletownbere lands you on an island about 10 km long and under 3 km wide, home to 218 people at the 2022 census. It rises to 270 m at Knockanallig, with views across the Caha and Slieve Miskish mountains to the mainland. The whole place is walkable, and best seen slowly on foot or by bike.
If you have only a few hours, walk the Rerrin Loop and take in Lonehort Battery – the most intact of the island’s military sites – rather than trying to cover the lot.
A living history
Human presence here stretches back millennia. The Ardaragh Wedge Tomb, often called the ‘Druids’ Altar’, is one of the finest early Bronze Age burial chambers in the region. Later, the island became the stronghold of the O’Sullivan-Bere clan until English forces recognised its strategic importance in the early 1600s. Sir George Carew ordered a road across the island in 1602 to move troops for the Siege of Dunboy, a route that still shapes the island’s layout.
The failed French expedition of 1796, led by Lazare Hoche, prompted the British to fortify the island in earnest. By 1805, four Martello towers were complete, along with a signal tower, barracks and storehouses to protect the deep-water anchorage of Berehaven. Fortification continued into the late 19th century with Lonehort Battery.
After the 1922 Anglo-Irish Treaty, Berehaven remained a British Treaty Port until 1938, one of the very few places in the new state where foreign troops stayed stationed. The Bere Island Heritage Centre in Ballinakilla, in the old 1857 schoolhouse, keeps this legacy in photographs, artefacts and genealogical records; it opens by arrangement rather than to a fixed timetable.
What to see and do
Walking and coastal trails
The island is threaded with marked trails that form part of the Beara Way. The Rerrin Loop is a manageable 6.3 km circuit of roughly three hours with gentle coastal views. For more of a challenge, the Ardnakinna West Loop covers 7.5 km and climbs to the lighthouse, rewarding walkers with wide views over Bantry Bay and its islands. Cyclists can follow the quiet lanes linking the two ferry terminals, with sweeping views and almost no traffic.
Historic landmarks
The four Martello towers – Cloughland, Ardagh, Lonehort and Rerrin – ring the island. Each looks out differently, from sheltered coves to open Atlantic. Lonehort Battery is the most intact military site, with two six-inch guns, underground magazines and a deep moat; guided tours run occasionally, but you can also explore it on your own. The Ardnakinna Lighthouse marks the western tip – the climb is steep but short, and one of the better spots for watching for marine life.
Wildlife and nature
The waters around Bere Island are rich in marine life. Between July and December, the area draws minke whales, dolphins and basking sharks. On land, the island is a stronghold for choughs, the red-legged corvids that nest on the coastal cliffs. Scairt Beach and the hidden coves along the south coast give quiet spots for a swim or a picnic, though it’s worth checking tide tables before heading for isolated stretches of sand.
Getting there and practical information
Bere Island is reached only by ferry, and both services run first-come, first-served. You can’t book ahead, so arrive early, especially at peak summer weekends.
- Bere Island Ferries: Departs from Castletownbere (opposite the SuperValu) to Oilean na gCaorach at the west end. The crossing takes 15 minutes; in summer, services run frequently between 07:45 and 20:30, with a reduced but daily winter schedule.
- Murphy’s Ferry: Departs from the Pontoon (east of Castletownbere) to Rerrin Village on the east end. The crossing takes 30 minutes, with up to ten sailings a day in summer and five or six on winter weekdays.
Each ferry carries up to four cars and 75 passengers, so allow extra time to board if you’re bringing a car.
Amenities and accommodation
There’s free parking at both ferry terminals and near Rerrin Village, and public toilets at the piers and in the village. The island has a handful of pubs and eateries, including O’Sullivan’s Bar in Rerrin, which does traditional music and meals. Accommodation runs from the family-run Bere Island Hotel and various B&Bs to self-catering cottages, plus bell tents with private terraces at Wild Atlantic Glamping.
Visitor tips
- Check the tides: several beaches and coastal paths are only reachable at low water.
- Pack layers: the island’s exposure means the weather can turn fast, even in summer.
- Respect private property: the trails and historic sites are open, but this is a working community – keep dogs under control and stay on marked paths.