Overview
These are the “Cork and Kerry mountains” of the song Whiskey in the Jar: a low sandstone range, An Cheacha in Irish, running down the middle of the Beara Peninsula in south-west County Cork and carrying the Cork–Kerry border along its crest. The highest summit, Hungry Hill, reaches 685m; Knocknagree, Sugarloaf Mountain and Baurearagh Mountain fill out the ridgeline.
Most people experience the Cahas from a car, over one of the two passes, and that’s no bad way to do it. But the range is also a Special Area of Conservation, and the reason is worth knowing: its high crags hold alpine sandwort (Minuartia recurva), a plant found nowhere else in Ireland, alongside blanket bog, species-rich grassland and small glacial lakes.
History & Landscape
Long before modern roads carved through the rock, the Caha range served as a natural boundary and a cultural landmark for local communities. The mountains are primarily composed of Devonian sandstone, formed from ancient riverbeds that were later uplifted and sculpted by glacial action during the last Ice Age. This hard, erosion-resistant rock creates the dramatic crags and cliffs that dominate the higher elevations, while the softer surrounding soils support the delicate alpine flora that thrives in the SAC.
People have crossed and quarried these hills for a long time. A hoard of copper axes, a halberd and a dagger from the early Copper Age, around 2000–1800 BC, was dug up at Killaha, and during road-widening at Bonane workers broke through into a souterrain, an underground passage roughly a thousand years old.
The bigger marks on the land are the two passes. In the mid-19th century two tunnels were blasted and then hand-hewn through the rock to create the Caha Pass, the link between Kenmare in Kerry and Glengarriff in Cork; it was paved in the early 1900s by the cyclist and motoring pioneer Richard Mecredy. Further north, the Healy Pass began as a famine-relief road of 1847, the bridleway the Irish call Bealach Scairt, and was widened in the 1930s and renamed after Tim Michael Healy, the first Governor-General of the Irish Free State.
The two drives
The passes are the main event, and if you only do one, make it the Healy Pass for the drama: a single track in places, climbing to just over 300 metres in a stack of tight hairpins, with a view at the top over the bogs and out to Bantry Bay. The catch is the same as the appeal. It’s narrow and exposed, the bends are blind, and hill fog can drop without warning, so a nervous driver will find it hard work and is better off skipping it in bad weather.
The Caha Pass on the N71 is the gentler choice and a fine drive in its own right, weaving through green slopes and a boggy plateau before threading two tunnels. The low tunnels keep the tour buses out, which keeps the road quiet, and about 70 metres into the longer tunnel you cross from Cork into Kerry underground, no passport required.
Both are paved and fine for an ordinary car. On either, give way early at blind bends rather than meeting someone halfway round one.
Walking & Wildlife
While the passes cater to motorists, the higher ridges and plateaux offer excellent opportunities for walking and wildlife observation. The SAC designation protects a surprising diversity of species, making the mountains a quiet haven for nature enthusiasts.
Flora & Fauna
The alpine heath and dry grasslands support rare botanical finds, including alpine sandwort (Minuartia recurva), heath pearlwort (Sagina subulata), and the Killarney fern (Vandenboschia speciosa). The wetter, boggy areas are home to the elusive Kerry slug, a species of conservation interest. Birdlife is equally notable, with peregrine falcons breeding on the higher cliffs and ring ouzels passing through during migration. Otters, badgers, and brown trout can also be spotted in the streams and valleys that cut through the range.
Walking Routes
The Beara Way, a long-distance trail that circumnavigates the peninsula, skirts the Caha spine and can be broken into manageable day hikes. Several well-trodden paths branch off from the main passes, leading to ridge walks and summit ascents. Routes are generally marked with yellow way-markers and are suitable for walkers of moderate fitness. Terrain can be boggy and exposed, so waterproof footwear and a weather-proof jacket are essential. In winter, snow and ice can make the higher sections hazardous, so checking conditions before setting out is strongly advised.
Nearby Bases & Attractions
Most visitors use the coastal villages at the foot of the mountains as their base. Glengarriff, sheltered by the range’s southern slopes, offers a range of accommodation, cafes, and a ferry service to Garinish Island. Further east, Castletownbere provides a lively fishing-port atmosphere and easy access to the eastern ridges. The village of Adrigole is another popular starting point for exploring the southern slopes, while Allihies sits near the northern end of the Healy Pass and is home to the historic Allihies Copper Mines.
Practical Information
- Admission: Free to access. There are no entry fees or formal opening hours.
- Parking: Small lay-bys and car parks are available at key points along both the Caha and Healy passes. Always park on the hard shoulder or in designated areas to avoid blocking the narrow roadway.
- Transport: Public transport options are limited in this rural area. The nearest bus services connect Cork City to Glengarriff and Castletownbere, from where local taxis can reach the pass turn-offs. Checking current timetables before travelling is recommended.
- Conservation: As a Special Area of Conservation, the mountains are ecologically sensitive. Visitors are asked to stay on established paths, take all litter home, and avoid disturbing nesting birds or protected ground flora. Dogs should be kept under close control, particularly during the spring and summer breeding seasons.
Time the drive for late afternoon, when the light comes in low off the Atlantic, and pull into the lay-bys rather than stopping on the road itself; the best of the Cahas is in the stopping, not the driving through.