Carrigafoyle Castle stands on a rock at the edge of the Shannon estuary, a five-storey tower house that has been a ruin since 1580 but remains one of the most evocative castles in Kerry. Its name comes from the Irish Carraig an Phoill – ‘rock of the hole’ – referring to the deep pool beneath its walls. Built in the 1490s by Conor Liath O’Connor Kerry, it was known as the ‘Guardian of the Shannon’ because its position controlled the shipping lanes to Limerick. At high tide, water surrounded the castle, and a small dock allowed boats to moor beside the fortress.
The Siege that Broke a Castle
In March 1580, during the Second Desmond Rebellion, Carrigafoyle was held by 50 Irish rebels and 16 Spanish soldiers who had landed at Smerwick the previous year. An English army under Sir William Pelham, supported by three ships under Sir William Winter, arrived with heavy artillery. For two days, demi-cannon and a culverin battered the castle’s west wall while ships fired from the estuary. On the second day, the wall collapsed, crushing many defenders. Survivors who fled into the water were shot or hanged.
The castle was never repaired. The breach in the west wall is still visible today – a raw wound in the stone that tells the story more clearly than any plaque could. The lower part of that wall was later rebuilt to the height of the first floor for safety, but the gap above remains.
What You’ll Find Today
The tower house stands about 24 metres tall, with walls more than two metres thick. A spiral staircase of 104 steps in the southeast corner leads to the top. The main entrance was set high above ground level to stay clear of the tides. Around the base, you can see fragments of the outer defensive walls and the square turret that was later converted into a dovecote.
The castle is open to the public. The caretaker opens it daily from 9 May to 28 October, 9am–6pm, and you can climb right to the top. From the upper windows, you get a sweeping view of the Shannon estuary, the wooded island that once sheltered the bay, and the distant mountains of Clare.
Practical Information
Getting there: Carrigafoyle Castle is about 10–15 minutes from the Tarbert ferry terminal, just outside Ballylongford in north Kerry. The road leads to a small parking area by the water. It’s well signposted – just follow the brown tourist signs from Ballylongford village.
Admission: Free. The castle is a National Monument in state guardianship.
Opening hours: The caretaker opens the castle daily from 9 May to 28 October, 9am–6pm. Outside this season, you can view the exterior at any time.
Access: The spiral staircase is narrow and steep – 104 steps to the top. Not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. The grounds around the base are flat and accessible.
Dogs: Welcome on leads. Be careful on the spiral stairs.
A Local’s Tip
One regular visitor recommends stopping at the Centra in Ballylongford for a breakfast roll and coffee, then climbing to the top of the castle to eat it. Sitting on centuries-old stone, looking out over the estuary with a warm breakfast in hand – it’s hard to beat. The castle is rarely crowded, and there’s no gift shop or audio guide. Just the tower, the view, and the quiet.
Nearby
Carrigafoyle is a short drive from the Tarbert–Killimer ferry, which crosses the Shannon to County Clare. If you’re heading that way, you can combine the castle with a visit to the Lighthouse on Loop Head. In the other direction, Ballybunion is about 20 minutes away, with its famous golf links and seaweed baths.