Overview
Cliffoney (Irish: Clia Fuinne) sits at a crossroads on the N15, just three kilometres south of Mullaghmore and a short drive from the dramatic cliffs of Donegal Bay. The village is framed by the Benbulben and Benwhisken mountains to the south and the Atlantic coastline to the north, making it a natural base for walkers, bird‑watchers and anyone who loves a rugged, unspoilt landscape. The Benbulben Forest Walk begins a few kilometres east of the village and offers a well‑marked loop through mixed‑wood and open heath, perfect for a half‑day hike.
Despite its modest size, Cliffoney boasts a concentration of archaeological monuments, a lively community hall, and a legacy of political activism that still echoes in its streets.
History
Early monuments
The oldest visible features around Cliffoney are five neolithic court cairns scattered across the townlands of Creevykeel, Creevymore and Cartronplank. The most celebrated is Creevykeel Court Tomb, regarded as one of the finest examples of its type in Ireland. Excavated by a Harvard archaeological team in 1935, the tomb is now in state care and maintained by the Office of Public Works. Adjacent to Creevykeel are the ruined Cartronplank court tomb (its back‑stone still visible on a private farm) and two overgrown sites on private land.
Early Christian period
A short walk from the village centre leads to St Brigid’s Well, set within a large ringfort of about 40 m diameter. Beside the well stands an 8th‑century cross‑slab, sometimes called the Cliffoney Cross, which bears a rare clockwise swastika at the top of the cross. The well was the focus of an annual cattle fair on 1 February until the 20th century and remains a place of quiet pilgrimage.
19th‑century landlordism
In 1802 the estate of Lord Henry John Temple, 3rd Viscount Palmerston passed to the Palmerston family, who owned roughly 12 000 acres around Cliffoney. Palmerston’s improvement programme reshaped the village: the Cliffoney Inn (now O’Donnell’s Bar) was rebuilt in 1828, a boys’ school (1824) and a girls’ school (1826) were erected, and a stone staircase, stables and gateway were added in 1826 under the supervision of engineer Alexander Nimmo. The Roman Catholic Church of St Molaise opened in 1828, replacing an older chapel called Tempeall Bui.
The O’Flanagan years
Father Michael O’Flanagan, a nationalist priest and later vice‑president of Sinn Féin, arrived in August 1914. He championed the rights of local tenants, most famously leading the Cloonerco Bog Fight in June 1915, when villagers cut turf on the bogs despite a ban from the Congested Districts Board. His activism provoked a ten‑week standoff known as the Cliffoney Rebellion after he was transferred by Bishop Bernard Coyne; the community locked the doors of St Molaise’s church and refused a replacement curate until Christmas Eve 1915.
20th‑century conflict
The village’s RIC barracks, built on Lord Palmerston’s orders in 1842, became a focal point during the War of Independence. On 25 October 1920 a bicycle patrol from the barracks was ambushed at Derry Cross, killing three constables. In the reprisals that followed, the Fr O’Flanagan Hall (then the Cliffoney Sinn Féin club) and ten cottages along the main road were burned, a scar that still marks the village’s built‑up heritage.
What to See & Do
| Site | Description | Access |
|---|---|---|
| Creevykeel Court Tomb | Full‑court cairn with a massive entrance lintel; guided by O.P.W. signage. | Free, state‑care; modest car park at the site and a short level walk to the monument. |
| St Brigid’s Well & Cross‑slab | Holy well within a ringfort, early Christian cross‑slab with swastika. | On private land; visible from the public footpath. |
| St Molaise’s Church | 1828 Roman Catholic church with three Joshua Clarke stained‑glass windows (father of Harry Clarke). | Open for worship; interior viewable during Mass times. |
| Cliffoney Hall (Fr O’Flanagan Hall) | Community hall rebuilt after 1920 fire; hosts the bi‑monthly Cliffoney Country Market and the monthly traditional music session. | Free entry; market on first and third Sundays. |
| O’Donnell’s Pub | Historic inn turned lively pub; black‑and‑white mural of surfers and horses; hosts the Father Michael O’Flanagan memorial music session on the last Saturday of each month. | Open daily; music session starts at 9 pm. |
| Cliffoney Beach | Small sandy stretch ideal for horse‑riding, quiet walks and dog‑friendly strolls year‑round. | Free; limited roadside parking on the village road (pay‑and‑display nearby at the beach car park). |
Cultural highlights
- Father Michael O’Flanagan memorial session – a long‑running traditional music gathering held at O’Donnell’s on the last Saturday of each month. Musicians from Sligo, Donegal and Leitrim converge for reels, jigs and storytelling.
- Cliffoney Country Market – held in the village hall on the first and third Sundays of the month, the market blends local crafts, produce and a live music set, offering a taste of rural Sligo life.
- Historical walks – follow the old road that once linked the Gaelic kingdom of Carbury to the sea, passing ringforts, cashels and the site of the 1915 church lock‑out.
Nature & Walking Routes
The area around Cliffoney is criss‑crossed by short, well‑marked trails that link the neolithic sites with the surrounding countryside. The Benbulben Forest Walk (see Benbulben Forest Walk) starts near the village and loops around the mountain’s southern slopes, offering panoramic views of the Atlantic and the iconic Benbulben silhouette.
A short drive north brings you to Carrowkeel Megalithic Complex (Carrowkeel), another cluster of court cairns and passage tombs that complement the Creevykeel experience. For a coastal option, head east to Aughris Beach and Head (Aughris Beach), a stunning sand‑dune system with a marked cliff‑top trail and excellent bird‑watching opportunities.
Nearby attractions
- Carrowkeel Megalithic Complex – a series of passage tombs and court cairns set in a remote upland landscape.
- Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery – one of Ireland’s largest stone‑circle sites, reachable in a 20‑minute drive.
- Benbulben Forest Walk – a 7 km loop that showcases the mountain’s flora and offers views of the Sligo coastline.
- Aughris Beach – a blue‑flag beach with dunes, a lighthouse and a coastal path ideal for families and dog‑walkers.
Practical Information
Getting there
Cliffoney lies on the N15 national route, intersecting the R279 that leads to Mullaghmore harbour. The village is about 25 km north‑west of Sligo town and 8 km south of Bundoran, County Donegal.
- By car – ample free roadside parking is available near the crossroads, at the inn, beside the beach, and a dedicated car park at Creevykeel.
- By bus – the TFI Local Link service (route 566, Sligo → Dowra) stops at nearby Ballintogher; the nearest bus stop to Cliffoney is a short walk from the village centre.
- By train – the nearest railway station is Sligo, with regular Irish Rail services from Dublin Connolly.
Amenities
The village hosts a small shop (Gala outlet, refurbished 2017), a hair salon, two bars (O’Donnell’s and a second local bar), and a craft shop. The Cliffoney National School (opened 1914) is a modern facility with a new pitch added in 2007. The former Garda station, closed in 2013, now houses a men’s shed opened in 2024.
Accessibility
Most of the main attractions – the court tomb, the well, the church and the village hall – are situated at ground level and reachable via paved paths. The Creevykeel site has a modest car park and a short, level walk to the monument.
Visiting hours & fees
- Creevykeel Court Tomb – open year‑round, free entry; no formal opening hours, but daylight visits are recommended.
- St Brigid’s Well – accessible at any time; no admission.
- St Molaise’s Church – open for worship; visitors may enter during Mass or by arrangement with the parish.
- Cliffoney Hall & Country Market – market runs 10 am–2 pm on designated Sundays; the hall is open for community events throughout the week.
Seasonal notes
The neolithic sites are best explored in spring and early autumn when the surrounding fields are lush and the light is soft. The music session at O’Donnell’s runs year‑round, but the market may be reduced in winter months. Cliffoney Beach is popular in summer for surfing and horse‑riding; it remains dog‑friendly throughout the year, though a short walk to the car park is advisable in high tide.
A glimpse of village life
Walking through Cliffoney, you’ll notice the black‑and‑white mural on O’Donnell’s Pub, a tribute to the surf‑loving community that gathers on the nearby beach each summer. The mural on O’Donnell’s Bar was painted in 2015 and has become a local landmark. The village’s Gala shop offers a selection of groceries and local produce, while the craft shop showcases handmade items from Sligo artisans.
The legacy of Lord Palmerston is still visible in the stone staircase and gateway that flank the inn, and the R.I.C. barracks corner remains a reminder of the turbulent early 20th century. For history enthusiasts, the story of the Cliffoney Volunteers – a company of Irish Volunteers formed in 1915 and mobilised for the Easter Rising – adds a dramatic layer to the village’s narrative.
Whether you are tracing the footsteps of Neolithic farmers, listening to a fiddle in a cosy pub, or simply breathing the fresh Atlantic air, Cliffoney offers a compact yet richly layered Irish experience.
Plan your visit – arrive by car or bus, park near the crossroads, and start with a walk to Creevykeel. Continue to St Brigid’s Well, then enjoy a hearty lunch at O’Donnell’s before joining the evening music session. End the day with a stroll along Cliffoney Beach as the sun sets over Donegal Bay.