Collins Barracks – National Museum of Ireland, Decorative Arts & History

Overview

Set in the Arbour Hill district of Dublin, Collins Barracks is a striking neoclassical complex that dominates Clarke’s Square with its granite façades and sweeping arcades. Built in 1702 and expanded over three centuries, the site was the oldest continuously occupied barracks in the world before its military life ended in 1997. Today it houses the National Museum of Ireland’s Decorative Arts and History collection, offering visitors a seamless blend of military heritage and Ireland’s material culture. The museum is free to enter, family‑friendly and an ideal rainy‑day activity in the capital.

History

The story of Collins Barracks mirrors the turbulent history of Ireland itself. Commissioned by Queen Anne’s Surveyor General, Thomas de Burgh, the original structure opened in 1702 as simply “The Barracks”. It later became known as the Royal Barracks under British rule and was the largest public building in Dublin after the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries it housed up to 1,500 troops, and notable figures such as Wolfe Tone were imprisoned there.

During the 1916 Easter Rising, soldiers from the Royal Barracks were dispatched to suppress the insurgents on Usher’s Island, the Four Courts and the GPO. After the Anglo‑Irish Treaty, the complex was handed over to the Irish Free State in December 1922 and renamed Collins Barracks in honour of Michael Collins, the new state’s first commander‑in‑chief. The Irish Defence Forces used the site for the next 70 years, with the 5th Infantry Battalion marching out for the final time in 1997.

De‑militarisation sparked an ambitious redevelopment. Glass‑faced structures were added to link two sides of Clarke’s Square, earning the Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland’s Silver Medal for Conservation. The renovated buildings reopened in 1997 as the home of the National Museum’s Decorative Arts and History galleries, preserving the historic fabric while creating modern exhibition spaces.

Architecture & Design

Collins Barracks is a textbook example of early‑18th‑century neoclassical architecture. The imposing granite façades are punctuated by a series of arcaded walkways that frame Clarke’s Square, creating a grand, open courtyard. Original stonework and iron‑work detailing survive alongside the contemporary glass extensions that house the museum’s modern galleries. The conservation project that linked the north and south blocks was praised for its sensitive integration of old and new, winning the RIAI Silver Medal for Conservation in 1997.

What to See & Do

Reception – The Privates’ Mess

Your visit begins in the former Privates’ Mess, now a reception area that celebrates the site’s military past with original plans, photographs and illustrations dating back to the 1660s.

South Block Galleries

The three large galleries on the south side are arranged thematically. On the first floor you’ll find an extensive Irish silver collection, showcasing exquisite pieces from the 17th to the 20th century. The second floor is devoted to period furniture and scientific instruments, while the third floor displays traditional Irish woodcraft and domestic furnishings.

West Block Galleries

Here the curators adopt a chronological approach, guiding you through Ireland’s economic, social, political and artistic development. Highlights include:

• Irish Wars (1917‑1923) and the 1916 Rising – weapons, photographs and personal items that bring the revolutionary era to life.
• Coins and Currency – a millennium of Irish money, from early silver pennies to modern euro coins.
• Costumes and Folk Life – embroidered garments, textiles and everyday objects that illustrate rural and urban life.
• Ceramics, Glassware and Asian Art – the Albert Bender collection of Asian artefacts and contemporary Irish craft.
• The Asgard – a restored 1914 sailboat that played a pivotal role in the Howth gun‑running operation.

East Block – Visible Storage

The newly created ‘What’s in Store?’ area offers a behind‑the‑scenes look at the museum’s stored treasures, allowing visitors to see objects that would otherwise remain in archives.

Special Exhibitions & Events

Collins Barracks hosts rotating exhibitions such as the Eileen Gray design showcase, the Ib Jørgensen fashion retrospective, and the popular Dead Zoo Lab drop‑in sessions where families can handle minerals, fossils and replica furs. Recent highlights have included a Harry Clarke stained‑glass exhibition and a dedicated showcase on Irish designer Eileen Gray. All events are free, wheelchair‑accessible and run without prior booking, though space may be limited.

Film Location

The barracks’ historic façade has featured in films and TV series including Michael Collins, Ripper Street, Penny Dreadful and RTÉ’s 1916 Rising mini‑series Rebellion, making it a favourite backdrop for period productions.

Events, Talks & Workshops

• Curator’s Talk – “The Irish Soldier in the 20th Century” – a free, 30‑minute talk (booking required) that explores changes in warfare technology and the role of Irish soldiers from the revolutionary period to peace‑keeping missions. Contact +353 1 648 6453 for bookings.
• Dead Zoo Lab – a hands‑on science lab where visitors can examine minerals, fossils and replica animal skins. Runs on a drop‑in basis, free of charge.
• School Guided Tour: An Introduction to Collins Barracks – a 45‑minute curriculum‑linked tour for junior and senior cycle groups, featuring the Harry Clarke stained‑glass exhibition. Groups of up to 15 can book select dates in term via the museum’s website.
• Seasonal Temporary Exhibitions – check the museum’s website for the latest shows; recent examples include the Eileen Gray design retrospective and the Ib Jørgensen fashion exhibition.

Education and Guided Tours

The museum runs an On‑site Guided Tour: An Introduction to Collins Barracks, aimed at junior and senior cycle students as well as transition‑year groups. The 45‑minute tour explores daily life of soldiers from 1706‑1993, the transformation of the site into a museum, and includes a visit to the new Harry Clarke stained‑glass exhibition – a great way for school groups to connect curriculum topics in history and visual arts with tangible artefacts. The tour links to the Irish junior‑cycle history strands and senior‑cycle history and visual‑art learning outcomes.

Visitor Facilities

• Café – A modest café in the South Block serves coffee, tea, pastries and light lunches, providing a pleasant break after exploring the galleries.
• Museum Shop – Offers books, replicas of silverware, Irish craft items and educational toys, many of which make excellent souvenirs.
• Temporary Gallery Notice – As of 2024, Gallery 4 (the Irish in British Regiments exhibition) is temporarily closed to the public for conservation work.

Getting There & Practical Details

Public‑Transport Tips

The Luas Red Line connects Heuston Station (the main rail hub) directly to the museum area; the nearest stop is Heuston, a 5‑minute walk along Benburb Street. Bus routes 46A, 46B and 123 also serve the stop outside the museum. For cyclists, Phoenix Park bike‑rental stations are a few minutes’ walk away, providing a pleasant way to explore the surrounding parkland.

Nearby Attractions & Walking Route

Collins Barracks sits in a cultural quarter that can easily be explored on foot:

• Arbour Hill Cemetery – The final resting place of the leaders of the 1916 Rising, a short walk north of the barracks.
• Croppies’ Acre – A small memorial park commemorating the 1798 Rebellion, located just beyond the museum’s western entrance.
• Wellington Monument – The tallest obelisk in Europe, standing in Phoenix Park a few minutes’ walk away.
• Phoenix Park – One of Europe’s largest enclosed city parks, home to Dublin Zoo, Áras an Uachtaráin and extensive walking and cycling trails.
• Smithfield Horse Fair – Held on the first Sunday in March and September in nearby Smithfield Square, this historic market fair adds a lively local flavour.
• Jameson Distillery Bow St – Just a short stroll away, the historic distillery offers guided tours and tastings.
• Light House Cinema & The Cobblestone Pub – Popular cultural venues in Smithfield for film lovers and traditional Irish music.
• St. Mary’s Church, Stoneybatter – A historic parish church with a striking interior, a few minutes’ walk away.
• The Garden of Remembrance – Located on Parnell Square, offering a reflective space dedicated to those who gave their lives for Irish freedom.

A pleasant half‑day itinerary could start with the museum, continue to Arbour Hill Cemetery, wander through Croppies’ Acre, then head to Smithfield to catch the horse fair (if in season) or a Jameson Distillery tour, before finishing with a leisurely stroll or bike ride in Phoenix Park.

Collins Barracks – National Museum of Ireland, Decorative Arts & History remains a compelling blend of military heritage and Irish material culture, offering free, family‑friendly indoor exploration in the heart of Dublin.