Overview
Collins Barracks dominates Clarke’s Square with a striking neoclassical presence that has defined this corner of Dublin since the early 1700s. Originally built to house British troops, the complex served as a military stronghold for nearly three centuries before transforming into a public museum. Today, it is home to the National Museum of Ireland’s Decorative Arts & History collection, where centuries of craftsmanship, currency, and conflict are displayed across free, family-friendly galleries. The site sits in the Arbour Hill district, just minutes from Phoenix Park and the city’s cultural quarter.
A Turbulent Military History
Long before soldiers drilled here, the site was part of an 11th-century Norse settlement known as Ostmantowne (later Oxmantown). The area’s Viking roots still echo in nearby street names like Viking Road and Sitric Road. By 1665, James Butler, Duke of Ormond, was gifted the land; his grandson later sold it to Queen Anne in 1703 to establish a new military complex.
Thomas Burgh, Surveyor General, began construction in 1704 and completed the first phase by 1710. He designed a sprawling layout of four quadrangles – Barrack Square, New Square, Horse Square, and Royal Square – constructed from durable Wicklow and Dublin stone, topped with Welsh slate roofs and featuring grand oak staircases. The original footprint was engineered to house 1,500 soldiers alongside extensive stables and a riding school. In the mid-18th century, architect Christopher Myers added a fifth storey to Palatine Square, widened the space, and created a marble ballroom. The Riding School, originally planned as a chapel in 1746, has an impressive 18-metre wide roof span – in the 1970s the same space hosted an Eric Clapton concert for Irish Army personnel.
The barracks played a direct role in Ireland’s revolutionary period: during the 1916 Easter Rising, troops stationed here were deployed to Usher’s Island, the Four Courts, and the GPO to suppress the rebellion. Wolfe Tone and other notable figures were also imprisoned within its walls.
Following the Anglo-Irish Treaty, the site was handed to the Irish Free State in December 1922 and renamed Collins Barracks in honour of Michael Collins. The Irish Defence Forces maintained a presence here for another 75 years, with the 5th Infantry Battalion marching out for the final time in 1997. The complex officially opened as a museum in 1997, with the barracks fully closing to military use in 1998. Demilitarisation paved the way for a major conservation project, blending original stonework with contemporary glass extensions to create the museum space you see today. The conversion project earned the Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland’s Silver Medal for Conservation in 2002. The museum now welcomes around 200,000 visitors annually.
Architecture & Layout
The barracks is a textbook example of early 18th-century military architecture. Its granite façades and sweeping arcades frame Clarke’s Square (named after 1916 rebel leader Thomas Clarke), creating a grand, open courtyard that once echoed with drill and parade. The 1990s conservation effort carefully preserved the historic fabric while inserting modern, glass-fronted galleries to link the north and south blocks. This sensitive integration of old and new earned the Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland’s Silver Medal for Conservation in 2002, ensuring the building’s military past remains visible alongside its new civic role.
What to See & Do
Your visit begins in the former Privates’ Mess, now adapted as the museum reception. Original plans, photographs, and illustrations dating back to the 1660s set the scene before you head into the main galleries.
The South Block houses three large thematic galleries. The first floor features an extensive Irish silver collection, spanning from the 17th century to the 1900s – one of the most extensive globally, ranging from Georgian tea services to Victorian trophies and intricate ecclesiastical pieces. Upstairs, you’ll find period furniture, scientific instruments, traditional woodcraft, and domestic furnishings that trace everyday Irish life.
A dedicated gallery celebrates Eileen Gray, Ireland’s most celebrated modernist designer, with key pieces including the E-1027 table, the chrome “Gray” table, and the Bibendum Chair. Elsewhere, the Fonthill Vase – a rare Chinese porcelain vase dated to c. 1300 AD and one of Europe’s earliest documented pieces of porcelain – is displayed alongside the Albert Bender collection of Asian artefacts.
The Way We Wore exhibition covers over 250 years of Irish fashion history through embroidered garments and textiles. Rotating temporary shows have featured a retrospective of IB Jørgensen, the Danish-born Irish designer whose work ran from the 1950s to the 1990s, alongside Harry Clarke stained-glass and contemporary Irish craft.
The West Block takes a chronological approach, mapping Ireland’s economic, social, and political development. Key highlights include:
- Irish Wars (1917–1923) & the 1916 Rising: Weapons, personal effects, and photographs that document the revolutionary era.
- Coins & Currency: A millennium of Irish money, from early silver pennies to modern euro coinage.
- The Asgard: A fully restored 1914 sailboat that played a crucial role in the Howth gun-running operation.
The East Block’s “What’s in Store?” area offers a rare behind-the-scenes look at the museum’s archival collections, displaying objects that typically remain out of public view.
Events, Workshops & Education
The museum regularly hosts free, drop-in events and temporary exhibitions. The Dead Zoo Lab is particularly popular with families, offering hands-on sessions where visitors can examine minerals, fossils, and replica animal skins. Rotating exhibitions have featured Irish designer Eileen Gray, fashion retrospectives, and stained-glass showcases.
School groups can book curriculum-linked guided tours covering the daily lives of soldiers from 1706 to 1993, the site’s transformation into a museum, and connections to junior and senior cycle history and visual arts syllabi. Adults can join curator-led talks on topics like the Irish soldier in the 20th century, though advance booking is required. Check the museum’s website for current seasonal programmes.
Visitor Facilities & Practical Info
- Admission: Free entry to all permanent galleries and most temporary exhibitions.
- Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10:00–17:00; Sunday and Monday 13:00–17:00. Hours may shift around public holidays.
- Accessibility: The museum is fully wheelchair accessible, with lifts and step-free routes throughout. The Dead Zoo Lab area is also accessible.
- Café & Shop: A small café in the South Block serves coffee, tea, and light lunches. The museum shop stocks books, silverware replicas, Irish crafts, and educational toys.
- Temporary Closures: Gallery 4 (Irish in British Regiments) is occasionally closed for conservation; check signage or the website before visiting.
Getting There
Collins Barracks is easily reached by public transport. The Luas Red Line stops at Heuston, a five-minute walk along Benburb Street. Dublin Bus routes 37, 39A, 66, 67, 25, and 25A stop nearby on Benburb Street. For drivers, there is no on-site car park; the nearest public options are on the north side of the Liffey, such as Smithfield Car Park. DublinBikes stations are within a few minutes’ walk and secure bike racks are provided at the entrance.
Nearby Attractions
The barracks sits in a dense cultural quarter that pairs well with a half-day walking itinerary. Arbour Hill Cemetery, just north of the site, is the final resting place of the 1916 Rising leaders. Croppies’ Acre, a small memorial park near the western entrance, commemorates the 1798 Rebellion. A short walk west leads to Smithfield, home to the Jameson Distillery Bow St, the Light House Cinema, and traditional music venues. The Wellington Monument and the wider Phoenix Park trails are also within easy reach. Plan your visit to allow two to three hours for the galleries, then step outside into Clarke’s Square to see the barracks from the courtyard perspective the architects originally intended.