Location
Cratlagh Wood lies within the townland of Cratlagh (Irish: Cratlach), part of the civil parish of Tullyfern, the barony of Kilmacrenan and the Millford electoral division. The wood’s coordinates are approximately 55° 06′ 06″ N, 7° 43′ 48″ W and it covers about 425 ha. It borders the townlands of Woodquarter, Carrickbressil, Cool Lower, Cool Upper, Glasnant, Golan, Highglen and Millford. The forest sits on the edge of Mulroy Bay on the Fanad Peninsula, offering sweeping coastal vistas.
Overview
Cratlagh Wood lies on the Fanad Peninsula in north‑west Donegal, hugging the edge of Mulroy Bay. The wood is best experienced on foot, following a well‑marked 10 km loop that starts at the Woodquarter Forest Pier lay‑by on the R245. Parking is available at the lay‑by, making the trail easily accessible for a half‑day adventure. Along the way you will be treated to sweeping bay vistas, a cascade that inspired a local song, and a series of stone‑marked points that tell the story of the area’s social and penal history.
History & Background
The name Cratlagh (sometimes rendered Cratlach) is linked to the tragic murder of William Sydney Clements, the 3rd Earl of Leitrim, on 2 April 1878. While popular myth places his death inside the wood, contemporary accounts confirm the ambush occurred at Woodquarter, just beyond the forest’s southern edge. A stone marker at Gap Rock near the lay‑by commemorates the spot.
The wood itself was once part of a larger estate owned by the Perry family. From the 1920s to the 1960s they lived in the high‑walled house locally known as “Perry’s”, providing employment for many locals. The house remains a striking landmark along the route.
Scattered throughout the forest are remnants of Penal‑Times mass‑rocks, such as An Scathlan, a silent reminder of clandestine worship during the 17th‑century restrictions.
What to See & Do
| Point of Interest | Description |
|---|---|
| Shoe Maker’s Corner | A quirky stone marker that once indicated the workshop of a local cobbler. |
| The Wildcats | A pair of weather‑worn stone sculptures that have become a favourite photo‑stop. |
| The Chains | Remnants of an old boundary wall, hinting at historic land divisions. |
| Pedlar’s Knowe | A small mound traditionally used by itinerant traders as a resting spot. |
| Perry’s House | The high‑walled residence of the Perry family, offering a glimpse into early‑20th‑century gentry life. |
| An Scathlan / Mass Rock | A Penal‑Times mass‑rock located 50 m from Perry’s, where clandestine services were once held. |
| The Waterfall | A picturesque cascade celebrated in the local song “To Dwell Along That Lovely Font We Call The Waterfall”. |
| Red Brae | A red‑stone‑lined track that gives the path its name; the colour is still visible after rain. |
| Fairy Rock | A moss‑covered outcrop steeped in folklore, said to be a gathering place for sprites. |
| Bumby Knowe | A modest hill offering a brief panoramic view of Mulroy Bay. |
| Boulkey’s Well | A historic well that once supplied water to nearby farms. |
| Jean’s Brae | A gentle incline where horses historically rested while pulling heavy loads. |
| Sinking Bridge | An old stone bridge that spans a small burn, adding a touch of rustic charm. |
| Mass Pad | A shortcut historically used by locals to reach Coole Chapel. |
| The Charming Braes of Drim | A lyrical spot referenced in another Mickey Mannie Mc Fadden song, offering sweeping views of the Inishowen Mountains on clear days. |
| Old Coole School & Coole Chapel | The school closed in 1969; the chapel, built in 1954, still serves the local community. |
| Curley’s Brae | A winding lane that leads past the site of the former Paídie’s Shop. |
| Stepping Stones at Mc Connell’s Corner | A set of stones across the Big Burn, perfect for a brief pause. |
| Mc Illwane’s Brae | Another scenic rise with repeated glimpses of Mulroy Bay. |
| Gap Rock | A striking outcrop near the Woodquarter lay‑by, marking the spot where the Earl of Leitrim was ambushed. |
The walk is punctuated by lyrical references to local songwriter Mickey Mannie Mc Fadden, whose verses celebrate the waterfall, the “Charming Braes of Drim” and the overall wild beauty of the area. Bird‑watchers will also enjoy spotting coastal species that frequent the bay’s cliffs.
Practical Information
- Starting point: Woodquarter Forest Pier lay‑by on the R245 (parking available). Public transport: the nearest bus stop is in Milford (approximately 2 km away); check Bus Éireann schedules for services to the R245.
- Distance & duration: Approximately 10 km; most walkers complete the loop in 2½–3 hours.
- Route surface: The majority of the trail is a compacted forest track, but about 3 km follow the R245, a busy road that may be unsuitable for children’s cycling.
- Alternative shorter loop: From the Glen Road junction (point 2) you can turn right and head directly to the Coole Chapel junction (point 23), cutting the distance by roughly 2 km.
- Admission: Free entry; no ticket required.
- Facilities: No restrooms within the wood; the nearest public facilities are in the village of Milford, a short drive away.
- Accessibility: The forest paths are uneven and include several stone steps and bridges, making the route best suited to walkers with moderate fitness.
- Safety note: The section on the R245 is a busy thoroughfare; exercise caution when crossing and consider using the designated lay‑by for a safe pause.
Flora & Fauna
Cratlagh Wood is a mixed‑oak and birch woodland, providing habitat for a range of native birds such as chaffinch, goldfinch and the occasional raven that circles the cliffs of Mulroy Bay. In spring the understory bursts with bluebells and wood anemones, while summer brings a carpet of wild garlic. The coastal edge supports salt‑tolerant plants like sea thrift and thrift, adding colour to the views over the bay.
Getting There
By car: From Letterkenny follow the R245 north‑west for about 15 km to the Woodquarter Forest Pier lay‑by. There is a small car park with space for a few vehicles; it is free to use. By bus: Bus Éireann route 242 serves Milford; from the bus stop you can walk or take a short taxi ride to the lay‑by. Taxis are available in Milford and the nearby town of Ballybofey. Cycling: The R245 section is a busy road and not recommended for family cycling, but the forest tracks themselves are suitable for experienced mountain‑bike riders seeking a quiet off‑road experience.
Photography Tips
- Best light: Early morning (sunrise) casts a warm glow over Mulroy Bay and highlights the red stone of Red Brae. Late afternoon offers softer light for the waterfall and Fairy Rock.
- Historic reference: The Irish Historical Picture Archive holds early 20th‑century photographs of Cratlagh Wood (e.g., image DG‑00411) that can inspire composition and provide a sense of how the landscape has changed.
- Panoramic views: From Bumby Knowe and the Charming Braes of Drim you can capture sweeping vistas of the Inishowen Mountains and the winding shoreline of Mulroy Bay.
Nearby Attractions
- Banba’s Crown – Ireland’s northernmost point, a short drive north along the R245.
- Barnesmore Gap – A dramatic mountain pass offering spectacular views, reachable via the R245 and R238.
- Mulroy Bay – The bay itself provides opportunities for kayaking, fishing and coastal walks.
- Fanad – Explore the wider peninsula’s historic sites, including the Fanad Head lighthouse.
Photography & Archives
Historic photographs of Cratlagh Wood, showing the woodland against Mulroy Bay, are held by the Irish Historical Picture Archive (e.g., image DG‑00411). These images illustrate how the landscape has changed over the past century and can be a useful reference for photographers seeking classic viewpoints.
Cratlagh Wood is a rewarding blend of natural splendor, cultural memory and lyrical landscape. Whether you are tracing the steps of 19th‑century rebels, listening to the rush of a hidden waterfall, or simply soaking in the panoramic sweep of Mulroy Bay, the wood offers a uniquely Donegal experience that feels both intimate and epic.