Overview
The oak that roofs Westminster Hall in London is said to have come from Cratloe. So, by tradition, do the beams of a royal palace in Amsterdam and, further back, the ninth-century palace of Aileach near Derry, whose warriors are recorded raiding these woods for timber. Cratloe was famous for oak long before it was a place to walk the dog.
The village sits in south-east County Clare, between Limerick city and Shannon, at the foot of Woodcock Hill. Behind it climbs a state forest of walking trails, a couple of medieval castles and, on the higher ground, long views out over the Shannon estuary. It is free and open year-round, and it works best as a straightforward couple of hours in the woods rather than a full day out.
History and heritage
The name Cratloe comes from the Irish Creat-shaileóg, the sallow wood, or land of sallow trees – though it was the oak the woods were prized for. In the ninth century this was MacNamara territory, invaded by warriors from the Kingdom of Aileach in Ulster who carried home oak to roof their royal palace. Cratloe timber later went to Westminster Hall and, by local account, to the Royal Palace in Amsterdam. In 1215 Geoffrey Lutterel was granted ‘the land of Crateluach’ by King John for thirty ounces of silver, and from about then the great oak woods were gradually felled away.
What stands today is a working plantation, planted across some 800 acres on the slopes of Woodcock Hill. The primeval oak is long gone; do not come expecting ancient forest.
Walking and nature
Managed by Coillte, Cratloe Wood is a network of forest roads and marked paths that suit all fitness levels. The waymarked Forest Park Walk runs to roughly 2 km, but the wider road system lets you string together a longer wander – reckon on about two hours to do the woods properly. A small lake, around 2.5 hectares and half a kilometre from the car park, draws ducks and other waterfowl and sees a bit of coarse fishing. Climb the higher trails on a clear day and the ground opens out over the Shannon estuary, with the runways of Shannon Airport off to the west.
The honest caveat: these are wide gravel forest roads through a commercial plantation, not wild woodland, and the car park fills at weekends when the playground is busy. Midweek mornings are quieter and better.
Castles and historic sites
Two MacNamara tower houses stand just off the road: Cratloemoyle Castle, from the early 1500s, and Cratloekeel Castle, from the late 1400s. In the local cemetery you will find the 1418 ruins of Craughaun Church, alongside a replica of the Ballinphunta Dolmen, a Neolithic wedge tomb uncovered during a graveyard extension in 1990.
Family facilities and practical information
The Spraoi sa Choill playground, built from sustainable Robinia wood, has a zip-line, a climbing frame, slides and a sandpit – the main draw for families. Picnic tables are dotted through the woodland, and a free car park sits beside the village on the R462.
- Getting there: take the N18 from Limerick towards Ennis and exit for Cratloe, then follow signs for the forest car park. Bus Éireann route 317 stops in the village centre, and Shannon Airport is about 15 minutes away.
- Accessibility: the car park and the short loop around the playground are level and wheelchair-friendly. Most forest trails are wide, graded roads but can be uneven in places.
- Dogs: welcome throughout, but keep them on a lead during nesting season, roughly March to July.
- Nearby: Bunratty Castle & Folk Park is a short drive, and Ballymorris Pottery in the village shows stoneware and runs hands-on throwing classes.
Come midweek if you can. At weekends the playground car park fills early, and the forest roads are far nicer without the crowd.