Overview
Croy Lodge is where Rev William Hamilton Maxwell wrote Wild Sports of the West (1832), the book that more or less invented Irish sporting writing. It’s a small fishing lodge on the Aughness headland north of Ballycroy, overlooking the tidal waters of Tullaghan Bay – three-bay single-storey under a half-dormer attic, built of rendered, coursed rubble limestone with battered walls, a pitched slate roof and terracotta pots on the chimneys. The exterior stands remarkably intact against the salt air; the interior is locked.
Set your expectations first. The lodge is disused and you view it from the public road – no tickets, no visitor centre, nothing to go inside. It’s worth a stop if you’re already on this stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way, or if the literary connection means something to you. As a destination in its own right, it’s a ten-minute look at a handsome ruin in a wild setting, no more.
A literary and sporting past
Croy Lodge was built as a fishing lodge between 1800 and 1832 for the landed families of Mayo, with connections to the Brownes of Westport House. Tenants over the years included the Clives of Rock House – themselves tenants of the Marquess of Sligo – and the Lenehan family. It’s listed on the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage (Reg. No. 31303402, Regional rating) for its architectural, historical and social interest.
Its lasting claim is literary. Maxwell came here in 1832 and wrote the bulk of his work at the lodge, including Wild Sports of the West – a foundational text on Irish sporting culture, full of the salmon fishing of the nearby Owenduff estuary, the deer of the hills and the hard beauty of the Mayo coast. Salmon fishing on the Owenduff has carried on in the area for generations since.
The lodge appears again two decades later in Asenath Nicholson’s Annals of the Famine in Ireland (1851); it was Nicholson who described this as a ‘most wild coast’. Read together, the two accounts show how visitors experienced this shoreline long before modern roads reached it.
Walking the Headland
The area around Croy Lodge is best experienced on foot. A short, unmarked path leads from the roadside to the lodge’s front porch, then continues along the banks of the Owenduff estuary. The route is informal and largely unimproved, which means it retains its natural character but requires a bit of care.
- Coastal scenery: The walk delivers uninterrupted views of Tullaghan Bay, the open Atlantic, and the mountains inland. The low stone walls and overgrown grasses frame the landscape in a way that feels largely unchanged from the 1800s.
- Wildlife and birds: The estuary’s tidal flats are a regular stopover for waders, gulls, and migrating shorebirds, particularly during the spring and autumn passages.
- Photography: The interplay of light, sea, and stone works well for landscape and architectural photography. Early morning or late afternoon light tends to soften the coastal glare and bring out the texture of the limestone walls.
Wear sturdy, weather-resistant footwear. The ground is uneven and can become muddy or slippery after rain, especially on the unmarked sections near the estuary. A light waterproof jacket is advisable year-round.
Getting There & Practical Tips
Croy Lodge is located in the townland of Aughness, roughly eight kilometres from Ballycroy. The site is reached via the R313 regional road, with a minor lane branching off toward the Aughness headland. There is no dedicated car park, so visitors should use the limited roadside lay-by near the turn-off.
Access and Facilities
- Access: The lodge is disused and not open to the public. Viewing is limited to the exterior from the public road and footpath.
- Facilities: There are no toilets, cafes, or visitor information points on site. Plan to bring water and snacks, and use facilities in Ballycroy or nearby towns before your visit.
- Public transport: Bus services to Ballycroy are limited, making a private car the most practical option for reaching this remote coastal stretch.
- Dogs: Well-behaved dogs are welcome on the footpaths. Keep them close to the road due to passing traffic, and be mindful of nesting ground birds during spring and summer.
- Safety: The coastline can be exposed to strong winds and sudden weather shifts. Check forecasts before heading out, and avoid venturing too close to the cliff edges or tidal zones.
Nearby Stops
A visit to Croy Lodge fits naturally into a wider exploration of north-west Mayo’s wild landscapes:
- Ballycroy (Wild Nephin) National Park – A short drive east, this expansive reserve offers raised bog boardwalks, forest trails, and opportunities to spot red deer and pine martens.
- Bangor Trail – For those seeking a longer challenge, this renowned multi-day route begins nearby and crosses some of Mayo’s most rugged and remote terrain.
- Coastal villages and pubs – The R313 connects Croy Lodge to a string of quiet fishing settlements, where you can break up a day of walking with a hot meal and local conversation.
Come early for the best light on the limestone, and check the tide before you walk the estuary banks. Pair it with the bog boardwalks at Ballycroy a short drive east, where there’s more to fill a day than a roadside ruin can.