Overview
The small pine-covered island in Derryclare Lough is one of the most photographed scenes in Connemara, and on a still morning, with the Twelve Bens doubled in the water, it earns it. The 677m peak of Derryclare rises above the lough at the southern edge of the range, with a fragment of old oak wood on its eastern flank. The Irish name, Binn Doire Chláir, means the peak of the oak-wood of the plain.
If you only have an hour, the lakeshore view from the R344 is the thing – pull in, take it in, move on. If you’ve come to walk, the prize is the Glencoaghan Horseshoe, but that’s a full, serious mountain day, not a stroll.
The nature reserve and oak wood
The oak wood on the eastern flank is a 19-hectare Statutory Nature Reserve, designated in 1980 and protected for its ecological value. The canopy is mostly mature sessile oak, with rowan, downy birch and ash beneath. It forms part of the larger Twelve Bens/Garraun Complex Special Area of Conservation, and it’s a notable site for lichens and fungi – it holds the first northern-hemisphere record of Hemigrapha astericus, a fungal parasite that grows on lichens. Walking through the dappled light here is a complete contrast to the bare quartzite above.
In 2005, nineteen red squirrels were moved here from Portumna Forest Park as part of efforts to protect the species in Ireland, and they’re now established in the wood. Red deer keep to the higher slopes, and otters turn up along the lough banks at dawn and dusk.
Walking and hiking
All routes need sturdy boots and respect for fast-changing weather.
- Lakeshore walk: an easy stretch along the shoreline and the edge of the oak reserve, good for the island view and for wildlife, with no real climbing.
- The horseshoes: for experienced hillwalkers, the Glencoaghan Horseshoe (around 16 km, 8–9 hours) is rated one of the best hill-walks in Ireland, linking Derryclare with neighbouring peaks like Bencorr. The shorter Bencorr horseshoe (roughly 11–14 km, 5–7 hours) is a tough day in its own right. Navigation skills are essential – the paths fade out in mist, and the ground gives no second chances.
Rock climbing
The eastern corrie, Log an Choire Mhóir, holds long multi-pitch routes of around 200m, graded from Difficult to Very Difficult – the best known is The Knave (VD, 225m). It’s traditional climbing on exposed quartzite that turns slick and dangerous in rain, so check conditions and forecasts before you commit.
Wildlife
Beyond the red squirrels, red deer and otters, the lough draws waterfowl, and you may see buzzards and sparrowhawks working the air above the corrie. The mix of oak wood, open water and mountain grassland keeps it varied through the year.
Angling
Derryclare Lough is a fly-only water, fished for spring salmon, grilse, sea trout and large wild brown trout. The fishery is run from Lough Inagh Lodge; a permit is required, plus a State salmon licence if you’re after salmon or sea trout, and both are best arranged in advance. It’s a working fishery rather than a casual spot, so sort the paperwork before you arrive.
Getting there and practical information
- Access: the lough is reached via the R344 through the Inagh Valley, off the N59 between Recess and Kylemore. There’s a car park near the lake and limited roadside parking; the popular photo pull-in fills up, so it’s quieter early. No public transport serves the area – you’ll need a car.
- Facilities: none – no toilets, shop or café at the lakeside, so bring food, water and any gear with you. The nearest services are in Recess.
- Weather and safety: Connemara weather turns fast, and even in summer it’s rarely warm on the tops. Pack waterproofs, map and compass, and a charged phone, and tell someone your route and expected return.
- Rules: the reserve and walking trails are free; fishing needs a paid permit. Stick to established paths where you can, to protect the ground flora and lichens.
Nearby
Recess village, with its craft shops and galleries, is just across the way, and Benbaun – the highest of the Twelve Bens – lies to the north for anyone with the legs for more. The drive in along the R344 is one of the better stretches of road in the west, so don’t rush it.