Overview
The two peaks that define the Derrynasaggart Mountains are named, plainly, for a goddess’s breasts. The Paps of Anu (Dá Chích Anann) rise as near-identical cones of 694 m and 690 m on the Cork–Kerry border, each topped with a Bronze Age cairn that sharpens the resemblance, and they take their name from Anu, the mother goddess of pre-Christian Ireland. The range around them, Cnoic Dhoire na Sagart (“hills of the priests’ oak-grove”), wraps the Clydagh River valley in open, unspoiled upland. There are no visitor centres or boardwalks here; you navigate yourself, and that is most of the appeal.
The Peaks & Landscape
The range is defined by a series of distinctive summits, most notably the twin Paps of Anu. Rising to 694 m (East) and 690 m (West), these conical peaks dominate the skyline and are clearly visible from roads like the N22 and N72. Other significant summits include Caherbarnagh (681 m), Mullaghanish (649 m), Knocknabro (592 m), Claragh Mountain (452 m) and Knockbwee (461 m).
The terrain transitions from steep, grassy lower slopes to broad, heather-covered plateaus and blanket bogs, with rocky outcrops breaking through near the summits. A small stream flows between the twin Paps, splitting northward toward Lough Nageeha and southward into the Clydagh River system. The open, rolling topography makes the range highly photogenic, particularly in late summer when the heather blooms purple across the ridges.
Mythology & History
The Paps of Anu (Dá Chích Anann) owe their name to Anu (or Danu), the principal mother goddess of pre-Christian Irish mythology. Associated with fertility, the earth, and the prosperity of the land, Anu was revered as the mythical progenitor of the Tuatha Dé Danann. The rounded, breast-like shape of the peaks, crowned with ancient cairns, naturally linked them to this earth-mother symbolism in local folklore. While detailed written myths about Anu are sparse, her presence endures in the landscape’s naming and in modern seasonal gatherings that blend heritage appreciation with outdoor activity.
The mountains also carry the weight of more recent history. The area features Bronze Age cairns and standing stones, hinting at early ritual use. During the 19th century, the Great Famine dramatically depopulated the surrounding parishes, leading to the consolidation of small farms into larger grazing estates. Today, the range remains a working landscape, with sheep farming and forestry interspersed among the wilder tracts.
Walking Routes & Challenges
The Derrynasaggart Mountains cater to a range of walking abilities, though all routes require self-navigation and proper outdoor preparation. For most walkers the Paps themselves are the prize: the 8–10 km loop from the lay-bys near Shrone is the one to choose. The full four-peak challenge below is a serious day out for experienced hillwalkers only.
Long-Distance Trails
The Duhallow Way traverses the range as part of its route from Inchamay to Shrone in County Kerry. Typically completed over three days, it crosses gentle ridges, skirts the Boggeragh Mountains, and descends through Millstreet. It forms a section of the European E8 long-distance path, offering a well-signposted alternative to the more technical summit routes.
The Derrynasaggart Mountains Challenge
Designed for experienced hillwalkers, this High Point Ireland challenge requires summiting four recognised peaks in a single day: Paps East (694 m), Paps West (690 m), Caherbarnagh (681 m), and Mullaghanish (649 m). Completing the challenge during the official Sport Hillwalking season (1 May–31 August) earns a Certificate of Completion and 37 points toward the Irish Challenge Hillwalker of the Year competition. Registration and GPS logging via the Peakhunter app are required.
Independent Routes
Popular loops include an 8–10 km circuit of the Paps starting from lay-bys near Shrone or off the N22 in the Clydagh Valley, and ridge walks linking Caherbarnagh to Mullaghanish. The Mullaghanish summit also hosts a major radio transmitter complex serving RTÉ and several national FM stations; while the mast is a notable landmark, access to the immediate summit area may be restricted for safety reasons.
Geology & Climate
The mountains are primarily composed of Devonian Old Red Sandstone, laid down in ancient river and lake environments over 350 million years ago. Harder quartzite-rich layers cap the peaks, resisting erosion and creating the range’s characteristic steep, rounded profiles. Glacial activity during the Pleistocene Ice Age further sculpted the landscape, carving U-shaped valleys and depositing moraines across the lower slopes.
The climate is temperate oceanic, with high annual rainfall that keeps the blanket bogs saturated and the weather highly changeable. Walkers should expect rapid shifts between sun, mist, wind, and rain, even in summer. The heather moorland and bog habitats support species such as red grouse, meadow pipit, and occasional raptors like the peregrine falcon and hen harrier.
Practical Information
- Access & Parking: The mountains are free to access year-round. Parking is limited to small roadside lay-bys near Millstreet, Ballyvourney, and Shrone. Some routes cross private farmland; walkers should respect landowners, close gates, and stick to established tracks where possible.
- Navigation: The essential map is the OSI Discovery Series Sheet 79 (1:50,000). A hard-copy map and compass are strongly recommended, as mobile signal can be unreliable and paths are often faint or non-existent across the bog.
- Facilities: There are no toilets, cafes, or water sources on the hills. Carry all necessary food, water, and emergency supplies.
- Best Time to Visit: The official hillwalking challenge runs from May to August, offering longer daylight and generally firmer ground. Autumn brings purple heather but wetter conditions, while winter walks require ice axes and crampons if frost or snow is present.
Nearby Bases
Several towns at the foothills provide convenient accommodation and supplies:
- Ballyvourney – A quiet Gaeltacht village with traditional guesthouses and pubs.
- Macroom – A historic market town offering hotels, restaurants, and the nearby Gearagh nature reserve.
- Killarney – A major tourist hub with extensive facilities, located about 20 km to the west.
Plan the route carefully and carry the OSI map and a compass: the paths fade to nothing across the bog, mobile signal is unreliable, and the mist comes down fast even in summer. Check the Met Éireann forecast before you leave, and give yourself more time than the distance suggests.