Overview
The Donegal Highlands are the mountainous north-west of the county – a run of headlands, open moorland and quiet loughs between the sea cliffs of Slieve League and the Derryveagh Mountains. It is thinly populated and largely off the mass-tourism map, which is the appeal and also the catch: there is no single “Highlands” attraction with a car park and a café. It’s a region you drive and walk, and you need a plan for the day. If you have only one, make it Slieve League.
Slieve League
Slieve League (Sliabh Liag) is the headline. Its cliffs rise to 601m – nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, and among the highest sea cliffs in Europe – yet see a fraction of the crowds. In peak season you park at the visitor centre and take a shuttle bus (around €8) up to the upper viewpoint; only those with limited mobility are allowed to drive the top road at busy times. From there the Pilgrim’s Path climbs along the ridge. It is genuinely exposed in places, so it is not a walk to attempt in high wind or low cloud, and the return of a clear day is worth timing for.
Glenveagh National Park
Inland, Glenveagh National Park covers 16,000 hectares of the Derryveagh Mountains, making it Ireland’s second-largest national park. Entry and parking are free; only the castle tour costs money, at €7. The lakeside castle and its gardens are the set piece, but the walking – along Lough Veagh and up into the glen – is the reason to give it half a day. This is also where golden eagles were reintroduced to Ireland, though sightings are a matter of luck.
Walking and cycling
Beyond Slieve League and Glenveagh, the walks range from short and easy to serious. The Assaranca Waterfall near Ardara is a roadside stop rather than a hike. At the other end, Mount Errigal – the county’s highest peak, a quartzite cone visible for miles – and the Poisoned Glen beneath it are proper mountain days for the fit and well-shod.
On two wheels, self-guided cycling tours run from April to October, usually with the option of e-bikes and luggage transfer. Take the e-bike: the passes here, Barnesmore Gap and the like, are long grinding climbs, and the weather rarely stays put for a full day.
History underfoot
The hills are dotted with older marks. The Kilclooney Dolmen and the ruined ringfort at Doon are within reach of Ardara; Grianán of Aileach, a restored ancient stone ringfort on a hilltop to the east, gives one of the best long views in the county. Near Ballyshannon, the ruins of Kilbarron Castle were the seat of the Ó Cléirigh family, one of whom helped write the Annals of the Four Masters at Donegal Abbey in the 1630s.
Ardara, Glenties and local life
Ardara is the cultural anchor: a town still known for its trad sessions in the pubs and for Donegal tweed, which is still woven here. Nearby Glenties, regularly among the tidiest towns in Ireland, makes an easy base, with meals to be had at The Highlands Hotel. Golfers can play the 18-hole Highlands of Donegal course near Ballybofey, opened in 1998 (originally as Groff’s Farm), laid out across the natural contours of the hills.
Sheskinmore, the dune-and-lough reserve between Ardara and Portnoo, is worth an hour for birdwatchers, and the moors turn purple with heather in late summer.
Practical information
Getting here and around: The nearest airports are Donegal Airport at Carrickfinn and City of Derry. Public transport is thin, so a hire car is the realistic way to see the region. The Wild Atlantic Way is well signposted, but the higher mountain passes – Glengesh among them – can close in winter or heavy rain, so check conditions before heading over one.
When to go: Summer gives you long daylight and the most reliable trail conditions; spring and autumn are quieter. Whatever the season, the high ground makes its own weather – bring waterproofs and a warm layer even in July.
Nearby: Surf lessons and a busier resort scene are down the coast at Bundoran. Start early, keep the day loose, and leave room to pull in at the roadside viewpoints, which are half the point of driving out here.