Fews of South Armagh

Overview

The Fews – known in Irish as Na Feadha (the woods or wilderness) – dominate the southern half of County Armagh. This rugged landscape of deep glens, scattered stone monuments and rolling drumlins has long served as both a natural playground and a living archive of Irish history. Visitors who venture into the Fews will find a region that has resisted easy conquest for centuries, offering dramatic borderland vistas, ancient burial sites and a strong sense of local folklore.

Landscape & Origins

The name Fews derives from the Irish plural féa, meaning “woods”. Historically, much of the island was heavily forested, and many place-names in the area retain this root – Feebane, Feemore, Feebeg, and others. The terrain is characterised by drumlin fields left by the last Ice Age, steep volcanic ridges that form the Ring of Gullion, and a network of rivers and lakes that support fishing and kayaking.

The region’s geology is as striking as its history. Slieve Gullion, a volcanic plug rising to 573 metres, anchors the landscape. It is encircled by the Ring of Gullion, a natural ring-dyke of low hills formed by ancient basaltic lava flows. This unique geological formation is part of the wider Mourne Gullion Strangford Geopark, recognised for its exceptional landforms and biodiversity.

History & Heritage

The Fews were long a refuge for Gaelic families because the difficult terrain made plantation and large-scale settlement challenging. In 1572, Queen Elizabeth I granted the area – then described as “Orior, the Fews and Gallowglass country” – to Sir Thomas Chatterton, but his attempts to establish a fortified settlement at Camlough failed and the grant was later revoked. Subsequent waves of Scottish and English settlers arrived in the 17th century, establishing small colonies at Markethill, Creggan and Shillan, yet the native Irish population remained dominant well into the Cromwellian era.

Redmond O’Hanlon and the Rapparees

The 17th-century Gaelic chieftain Redmond O’Hanlon became a legendary outlaw (rapparee) who operated from the Fews. He collected protection money from locals and redistributed it, earning a folk-hero status that persists in local ballads and place-names. O’Hanlon was assassinated in 1681, but his story remains a key part of the region’s cultural memory.

Patrick Linden – The Fews Harpist

The celebrated 18th-century harper Patrick Linden (Pádraig na gCláirseach) lived in the Fews, near the townland of Lisleitrim in Lower Creggan. He taught harpist Patrick Quin and performed at the Harpers’ Assembly in Belfast in 1792. Contemporary sources note that Linden was a distinguished performer who could read and write Irish fluently. His repertoire included airs such as Miss Hamilton, Saely Kelly and Maudhin Voge Eveen, preserving a vital link to Ireland’s musical heritage.

Pilgrimage & Sacred Sites

St Brigid, one of Ireland’s three patron saints, is traditionally said to have been born at Faughart in the Fews in 451 AD. A modest stone shrine at the site marks the spot and attracts visitors interested in early Christian heritage. The area also contains the Dorsey Enclosure, an Iron-Age earthwork, and numerous stone cairns linked to ancient ritual practices. The Kilnasaggart Pillar Stone, dated to c. AD 700, bears an inscription dedicating the site to St Peter and sits on the historic Tara-to-Dunseverick road through the Moyry Pass.

What to See & Do

• Slieve Gullion – “The Holy Mountain” rises to 573 m with a summit cairn, Calliagh Berra’s Lough, and legends tied to Archbishop Oliver Plunkett and Cú Chulainn. A well-marked trail from the village of Camlough takes about two hours to complete.
• Ring of Gullion – The natural ring-dyke encircling the mountain includes the Dorsey Enclosure. Public footpaths loop around the ring, with car parks at Dorsey and at the base of Slieve Gullion.
• Ballykeel Dolmen – A portal tomb with three upright stones and a capstone, locally called “The Hag’s Chair”. Located at the western foot of Slieve Gullion, it is a short walk from the roadside.
• Annaghmare Cairn – A 20 ft long megalithic court grave, known locally as “The Black Castle”, reputed for ghostly sightings. An isolated forest near Cullyhanna holds a marked trail leading to the cairn.
• Creggan Graveyard & Poet’s Glen – The Church of Ireland graveyard contains the O’Neill burial vault and the graves of 18th-century Gaelic poets Art McCooey, Padraig MacAlinden and the rapparee Seamus MacMurphy. Free parking is available in Creggan village.
• Moyry Castle – A square tower built in 1601 by Lord Mountjoy to command the Gap of the North. Features gunloops and an interior bawn wall. Visible from the Moyry Pass road; exterior viewing is free.
• Killeavy Old Churches – Ruins of a 5th-century monastic site founded by St Monenna. A granite grave marker attracts pilgrims seeking healing. Accessible from Killeavy village centre.
• Hearty’s Folk Cottage – A restored thatched cottage operating as a traditional pub/restaurant, offering live music and storytelling. Located near Crossmaglen, open evenings May–September.
• Camlough Lake – A ribbon lake surrounded by gentle hills, popular for fishing, kayaking and picnics. Parking is available at the north shore with easy access from the A1.

Walking & Outdoor Activities

• Ring of Gullion Walk – A 12-km loop starting at the Dorsey Enclosure, climbing Slieve Gullion and returning via the low-lying ring-dyke. The route is well-signposted and suitable for walkers of moderate fitness.
• Slieve Gullion Trail – A shorter 4-km ascent from Camlough to the summit, offering panoramic views of the surrounding drumlins and the Mourne Mountains.
• Cycling – Quiet B-roads north of Loughgall provide low-traffic routes ideal for road-bike day trips. The Moyry Pass offers a challenging climb for mountain bikers.
• Fishing & Water Sports – Camlough Lake is stocked with brown trout. Anglers can obtain permits from the local Angling Association. Kayaks and paddle-boards are available for hire in Camlough village during summer.
• Cultural Walks – Follow the “Poets’ Trail” linking the graves of Art McCooey, Padraig MacAlinden and Seamus MacMurphy, with interpretive panels at the Poet’s Glen.

Practical Information

The Fews are best explored by car, as public transport is limited across the borderland. The main access routes are the A1 (Belfast-Newry) and the B27, which runs through Crossmaglen, Forkhill and Newtownhamilton. Parking is generally free at most attractions, though some commercial sites may charge for table service.

• Opening hours – Most historic monuments (dolmens, cairns, stone circles) are open 24 hours year-round. Hearty’s Folk Cottage operates evenings May–September; check their Facebook page for exact times.
• Admission – There is no entry fee for the natural sites or ancient monuments. Moyry Castle and the Kilnasaggart Pillar Stone can be viewed from the public road at no cost.
• Accessibility – The majority of outdoor attractions involve uneven ground and steep sections; they are best suited to visitors with a reasonable level of fitness. The Camlough Lake picnic area provides level paths and wheelchair-friendly facilities.
• Local services – The market town of Crossmaglen offers a range of B&Bs, cafés and a visitor information centre where you can pick up detailed walking maps. For up-to-date information on events and accommodation, visit visitarmagh.com.

Trail conditions in the Fews can change quickly with the weather, so it’s worth checking local forecast updates before heading out, especially for the higher sections around Slieve Gullion. Bring sturdy footwear, a waterproof layer, and plenty of water for the longer loops.