Glenbeigh – Rossbeigh strand & the Kerry Way

Overview

Most cars on the Ring of Kerry slow at Glenbeigh only long enough to photograph Rossbeigh and drive on, which is their loss and your gain: this is one of the quieter corners of the Iveragh Peninsula, and the sand and the mountains behind it reward anyone who stops. The village sits in a horseshoe of hills, Seefin to the north and Curra Hill rising sharply to the west, with the Caragh and Behy rivers running past it on either side into Castlemaine Harbour. Its Irish name, Gleann Beithe, means the glen of the birch.

On the N70, Glenbeigh works as a practical base – shops, a Garda station, a community centre, a decent spread of accommodation – but the reason to linger is outside the village: the Blue Flag strand, one of Ireland’s densest clusters of prehistoric rock art up in the hills, and the mountain stages of the Kerry Way that begin here. If you have one afternoon, spend it walking out along Rossbeigh.

History & Legend

The landscape around Glenbeigh carries layers of human history stretching back over 4,000 years, and a good deal of Fianna legend on top. Local tradition holds that Diarmuid and Gráinne took refuge in a cave in the Behy valley during their flight from Fionn Mac Cumhaill. Rossbeigh Strand is remembered as the departure point for Oisín and Niamh, who rode out to sea on a white horse to reach Tír na nÓg, the land of youth.

Archaeological evidence supports the area’s ancient significance. The hills surrounding Coomasaharn Lake contain one of Ireland’s densest clusters of open-air rock art. These cup-and-ring marks, dating to the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze Age (c. 2300–1500 BC), belong to the Atlantic tradition and were carved by communities who hunted and farmed these valleys millennia ago.

More recent history centres on Wynne’s Folly (also called Glenbeigh Towers), a castellated mansion built in 1867 by Lord Headley Wynne. The estate became notorious during the early 1880s when tenants faced brutal evictions after failing to meet rent hikes imposed to fund the castle’s construction. The house was burned by Irish Republican forces in 1921 and never rebuilt. Its stone ruins remain a prominent landmark on the village fringe, with interpretive panels detailing the estate’s turbulent past.

Rossbeigh Strand

A short walk from the village centre, Rossbeigh Strand is a long sand spit reaching out into Dingle Bay. Accounts of its length vary – anywhere from about four kilometres to the ‘six miles’ the village claims, depending on where you stop counting and how far the tide has gone out. It holds Blue Flag status and is patrolled by lifeguards in summer. The wide, firm sand suits long coastal walks, stand-up paddleboarding and surfing, and the eastern mudflats are an important feeding zone for migratory waders. The Rossbeigh Beach Horse Riding Centre runs one- and two-hour rides along the strand from February to October, weather permitting.

A historic stone guide tower once stood at the northern end of the sandhills, helping vessels navigate into Castlemaine Harbour. After storm damage in 2011, salvaged stones were used to build a replica on Glenbeigh’s main street. In August the strand hosts the village festival, when beach races bring a crowd down to the sand for the day.

Walking & Hiking

Glenbeigh is a key junction on the Kerry Way, Ireland’s longest national waymarked trail. The route passes through the village, offering walkers several options ranging from gentle coastal circuits to strenuous mountain loops.

• Kerry Way (Stages 3 & 4) – Stage 3 runs 18 km from Glencar to Glenbeigh, while Stage 4 covers 28 km from Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen. Both sections can be walked in either direction and feature forest tracks, quiet backroads, and open mountain ridges.
• Coomasaharn Horseshoe Loop – A 12–16 km moderate-to-strenuous circuit that circles Coomasaharn Lake. The route climbs over peaks including Teermoyle Mountain (760 m) and Coomacarrea (772 m), passing ancient rock art and Ogham stones before returning through glacial valleys.
• Drung Hill Mountain Loop – A 6.5 km, roughly 3.5-hour walk to the summit of Drung Hill (640 m). The path follows an old Butter Road and a historic pagan pilgrimage route, offering 360-degree views of Dingle Bay, Valentia Island, and the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.
• Seefin Mountain Return – A 10.5 km trek to Seefin (493 m). The route combines forested lower slopes with open heathland, providing reliable views of the surrounding coastline.
• Rossbeigh Hill Loop – A 10 km moderate circuit around Rossbeigh Hill (274 m) that links directly to the Kerry Way and offers clear sightlines across the bay.
• South Kerry Greenway (under development) – Following the disused Farranfore-to-Valentia railway line, this route is being built to connect Glenbeigh with Cahersiveen along the old track bed. When finished it will give walkers and cyclists a dedicated off-road path with mountain tunnels and the Gleensk Viaduct; for now it remains under construction with no firm opening date.

Wildlife & Nature

The Rossbeigh mudflats and dune systems form a designated natural heritage area. During spring and autumn migrations, the intertidal zones support oystercatchers, curlews, red-knots, and dunlins. Harbour seals frequently haul out on the sand at low tide, particularly near the southern end of the beach. The dunes themselves host specialised flora, including sea thrift, sand-dune violet, and marram grass, which help stabilise the coastline against Atlantic weather systems.

Food, Drink & Accommodation

Glenbeigh offers a compact selection of pubs, restaurants, and stays that cater to both passing Ring of Kerry tourists and longer-term visitors.

• Pubs: Ashes is a century-old family-run pub on the main road, known for live music and spacious outdoor seating. The Glenbeigh Hotel Bar hosts Sunday traditional sessions and is noted for its chicken curry. Rosspoint Bar & Restaurant provides panoramic Atlantic views, a pool table, and regular live sets.
• Cafés & Restaurants: Emilie’s operates as a café, deli, and bakery, specialising in wood-fired sourdough pizzas and artisan desserts. Curra Restaurant at the Towers Hotel offers fine dining focused on locally sourced seafood and Kerry mountain lamb, accompanied by live piano music.
• Accommodation: Options range from the historic Victorian Towers Hotel (est. 1895) and the family-run Glenbeigh Hotel to self-catering cottages like Seabreak near Dooks Golf Links. Glen Ross Caravan & Camping Park sits at the village edge, offering sea-view pitches and direct beach access.

Practical Information

• Getting there: Glenbeigh is on the N70, linking Tralee, Killarney and Cahersiveen. Kerry Airport (Killarney) is roughly 45 km away. Bus Éireann route 279 (Killarney–Glenbeigh–Waterville) serves the village year-round, with the summer-only 280 Ring of Kerry service on top of it; otherwise most visitors arrive by car.
• Parking: Free on-street parking is available in the village centre. Rossbeigh Beach has a large designated car park that fills quickly in July and August; additional roadside spaces are provided nearby.
• Visitor Information: The local information point can be reached at +353 66 976 9184. Staff provide trail maps, event listings, and route advice. Opening hours vary seasonally.
• Accessibility: Main village streets and most pubs are wheelchair-accessible. Rossbeigh Beach features boardwalk sections suitable for limited mobility, though the sand itself remains firm but uneven.
• Safety & Seasonality: Lifeguards patrol Rossbeigh during summer months. Mountain routes like the Coomasaharn Horseshoe are open year-round but require sturdy footwear, weather-appropriate layers, and a map or GPS device. The beach and coastal walks are most comfortable from May to September, while the mountain trails are best attempted in drier weather.

Nearby Attractions

• Banna Strand – A Blue Flag beach to the north with extensive dune systems and historic connections to the 1798 rebellion.
• Beaufort – A gateway village to the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, offering additional dining and accommodation.
• Black Valley – A remote, scenic valley ideal for quiet walks and wildlife observation.
• Caragh Lake – A glacial lake surrounded by ancient woodland; the Caragh River and lake are known for salmon and sea-trout fishing (a licence is required).
• Kerry Bog Village Museum – About 3 km from the village, a set of restored thatched cottages and Kerry Bog Ponies giving a glimpse of 19th-century rural life.
• Valentia Island – Ireland’s westernmost inhabited island, accessible by road via the Ring of Kerry, featuring slate quarries, a historic lighthouse, and fossilised tetrapod tracks.
• Skellig Coast – The departure point for licensed boat trips to the Skellig Islands, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

One practical warning worth heeding: check tide times before walking the full length of Rossbeigh Strand. The eastern mudflats are exposed only at low water and can be slow and awkward to cross, and the tide comes in fast across flat sand.