Overview
Glendalough (Irish: Gleann Dá Locha, “valley of the two lakes”) lies in the heart of the Wicklow Mountains National Park, about 40 km south of Dublin. The U‑shaped glacial valley cradles two ribbon lakes – the Upper and Lower Lakes – and a wealth of early‑medieval stonework that once formed one of Ireland’s most important monastic cities. Today the site is a blend of natural beauty, archaeological intrigue and outdoor recreation, making it a must‑see on any Irish itinerary.
History
The monastic settlement was founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a descendant of a Leinster ruling family who retreated to the remote valley for contemplation. Over the next six centuries the community flourished; the Annals record the deaths of abbots, Viking raids (the settlement was attacked at least four times) and the construction of a cathedral, round tower and several stone churches between the 10th and 12th centuries. Notable figures include St Laurence O’Toole, who served as abbot before becoming Archbishop of Dublin in 1162.
English forces destroyed the complex in 1398, but the site continued as a local church and pilgrimage destination. In the 19th century the Office of Public Works began a careful restoration, and the ruins were opened to the public. From 1825 to 1957 the head of the valley hosted a lead‑galena mine, leaving behind rusted crushers and the remains of a miners’ village that now form part of the cultural landscape.
What to See & Do
Monastic City
- Round Tower – a 30 m high, 11th‑century bell tower with a conical roof rebuilt in 1876. The entrance sits 3.5 m above ground, a classic defensive feature.
- St Peter and St Paul’s Cathedral – the largest surviving church, showing phases from the 10th‑century nave to 12‑13th‑century chancel and sacristy.
- St Kevin’s Cross – a massive 12th‑century high cross carved from a single granite block, unusual for its unpierced centre.
- Priests’ House, St Kevin’s Kitchen, St Ciarán’s Church, St Mary’s Church, Trinity Church, St Saviour’s Church – each offers a glimpse of Romanesque and early Gothic architecture.
- The Deer Stone – a bullaun stone once associated with pilgrim rituals; it suffered vandalism in 2023.
- St Kevin’s Bed – a small cave high above the Upper Lake, reputedly used by the saint for solitary prayer.
Lakes & Landscape
- Upper Lake – the deeper of the two, framed by the Spinc ridge and the peaks of Camaderry, Lugduff and Conavalla. A short walk from the Upper Lake car park brings you to a pebble beach and panoramic viewpoints.
- Lower Lake – quieter, with a boardwalk that skirts wetlands and offers excellent bird‑watching (great spotted woodpecker, redstart, wood warbler).
- Poulanass Waterfall – a 20‑metre cascade that feeds the lake; the waterfall walk (Pink Route) is a popular moderate hike.
Walking Trails (maintained by Wicklow Mountains National Park)
| Trail | Difficulty | Distance | Typical Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Green Road Walk (Green Route) | Easy | 3 km | ~1 h |
| Miners Road Walk (Purple Route) | Easy | 5.4 km | 1 h 10 m |
| Poulanass Waterfall Walk (Pink Route) | Moderate | 1.6 km | 45 m |
| Derrybawn Woodland Trail (Orange Route) | Moderate | 8 km | 2 h |
| Spinc & Glenealo Valley (White Route) | Strenuous | 9.5 km | 3.5 h |
| Short Spinc Loop (Blue Route) | Strenuous | 5.5 km | 2 h |
| Wicklow Way (long‑distance) | Moderate‑Strenuous | 132 km total | multi‑day |
The Spinc ridge offers the most dramatic vistas – a boardwalk winds along sheer cliffs above the Upper Lake, then descends into the deer‑filled Glenealo Valley before looping back via the Miners Road. Rock climbers also favour the south‑facing granite cliffs near the Miners Village, with over 140 routes ranging up to E5 6b.
Wildlife & Nature
Glendalough’s semi‑natural oak woodland bursts with spring bluebells, wood sorrel and anemones. The area supports breeding goosander, great spotted woodpecker, common redstart, wood warbler, peregrine falcon, white‑throated dipper and buzzard. Deer are a regular sight on the higher ridges, especially along the Spinc loop.
Practical Information
- Parking – Two main car parks serve visitors: the Upper Lake car park (€4 per day) and the Lower Lake car park (€4 per day). Both provide toilets, information desks and food trucks. A free car park exists in the nearby village of Laragh (≈3 km walk to the Upper Lake). During peak summer weekends the paid car parks fill quickly; arriving early is advisable.
- Public transport – The daily St Kevin’s Bus runs from Dublin’s St Stephen’s Green (≈1 h 20 m journey) to the Visitor Centre. A return ticket costs €23. Local Link Bus 183 also connects Wicklow Town, Laragh and Glendalough.
- Visitor Centre – Open year‑round (09:30‑18:00 in summer, 09:30‑17:00 in winter). Admission is €5 for adults, €3 for children/students, €13 for a family of four; parking payment grants one free entry. The centre offers interpretive displays, a 3‑D model of the 12th‑century settlement and child‑friendly storytelling.
- Facilities – Baby‑changing rooms, a bookshop, free Wi‑Fi, wheelchair‑accessible toilets (note that the graveyard remains difficult for wheelchair users). Toilets close at 16:15 from mid‑October to mid‑March.
- Seasonal notes – The Bronze Trail at the Upper Lake is closed until further notice after storm damage (2024). The site is fully open year‑round except 23‑29 December when it closes for the holidays.
- Safety – The Spinc boardwalk can be slippery when wet; sturdy footwear is recommended. Some sections of the Miners Walk have rocky footing and are not suitable for wheelchairs or pushchairs.
Practical Information (Getting There & Staying)
By Car
From Dublin take the M11/N11 south to Kilmacanogue, then follow the R755 through Roundwood and Annamoe to the R757. Signage to the Upper and Lower car parks is clear. Parking is €4 per day; a free car park in Laragh offers a shuttle on weekends.
By Bus
St Kevin’s Bus (operated by a family‑run company since 1927) departs St Stephen’s Green North at 11:30 and 18:00 on weekdays, 11:30 and 19:00 at weekends. Tickets are bought on board. The bus drops you at the Visitor Centre, where the information desk can advise on trail maps and current conditions.
Accommodation & Food
Glendalough itself has a single hotel and a few cafés. Most visitors stay in Laragh (≈3 km away), where options include Lynham’s Hotel, Sliabh Amharc, Glendalough Glamping and the Wicklow Heather restaurant. Food trucks in the Upper car park serve coffee, pastries and hot meals.
Nearby Attractions
- Sally Gap Drive – a scenic mountain road that links Glendalough to Lough Tay (the “Guinness Lake”).
- Powerscourt Estate – 15 km north, with formal gardens and a waterfall.
- National Botanic Garden of Ireland – Kilmacurragh – 15 km west, a horticultural gem.
Summary of Visitor Experience
A typical day begins at the Visitor Centre, where you can pick up a free trail map and learn the site’s layered history. From there, a short stroll to the Gateway and Round Tower introduces you to the monastic ruins. Choose a trail that matches your fitness level – the Green Road Walk offers a gentle lakeside circuit, while the Spinc Loop rewards the energetic with sweeping valley panoramas. Along the way, keep an eye out for deer, peregrine falcons and the occasional wild goat. After a few hours of walking, return to the Upper car park for a coffee from a food truck, then head into Laragh for a sit‑down meal before the bus or car takes you back to Dublin.
Glendalough blends spiritual heritage, dramatic scenery and a network of well‑marked trails, making it a versatile destination for families, history buffs and avid hikers alike.