Glendalough – monastic ruins and two lakes

Overview

Two lakes, a round tower and a ruined monastery sit in a glacial valley an hour south of Dublin – and on a fine summer Sunday, so do several thousand other people. Glendalough (Irish: Gleann Dá Locha, “valley of the two lakes”) is one of the busiest spots in the Wicklow Mountains, and the best of it is free: the monastic city by the Lower Lake, then the flat shoreline walk up to the Upper Lake. The visitor centre charges admission and is worth a look for the model and the exhibition, but the ruins and the lakes themselves are not gated.

If you only have a couple of hours, walk those two and leave the Spinc ridge for a day with better legs and drier boots. And come early: the Upper Lake car park fills by mid-morning on weekends and fine days, so aim to arrive before 10am or use the free car park in Laragh (open 8am to 8pm) and walk in.

History & Landscape

• Early foundation – Saint Kevin, born into a Leinster ruling family, retreated to the valley around 550 AD. His solitary cell grew into a major monastic settlement that attracted scholars and pilgrims.
• Medieval expansion – Over six centuries, the community built a cathedral, round tower, stone churches, and high crosses. The annals record Viking raids on the settlement, and Glendalough became the seat of St Laurence O’Toole, who was later appointed Archbishop of Dublin in 1162.
• Decline & restoration – English forces destroyed the complex in 1398, but local worship continued. The Office of Public Works began systematic restoration in the 19th century, stabilising the ruins for public access.
• Industrial era – Lead mining ran in the valley from 1825 to 1957. The workings left behind the Miner’s Village – stone cottages, rusted ore crushers and a spoil-heaped clearing on the north shore of the Upper Lake, now the turnaround point of the Miner’s Walk.
• Geology – Glacial ice carved the valley during the last Ice Age. Meltwater filled the corrie, and sediment from the Poulanass River eventually divided the original basin into the Upper and Lower Lakes.

What to See & Do

Monastic Ruins

The core archaeological zone sits on the eastern shore of the Lower Lake, a short walk from the visitor centre. Key features include:

• Round tower – At 30 metres, this 10th-century tower is the landmark you’ll recognise from every postcard of the valley. Its doorway sits well above ground level, reached originally by a wooden ladder.
• Cathedral & stone churches – Foundations and surviving walls outline the layout of the medieval complex. The 12th-century cathedral remains the largest structure.
• High crosses – Carved with biblical scenes and Celtic knotwork, these stone monuments date from the 9th and 10th centuries.
• St Kevin’s Bed – A small cave about 10 m up the south shore of the Upper Lake. Tradition ties it to the saint, though it may be a far older prehistoric burial site. Getting to it is genuinely dangerous – view it from across the lake and leave it at that.

Lakes & Shoreline

• Upper Lake – A 30-metre-deep basin framed by steep pine slopes. The shoreline path is flat and offers clear reflections of the surrounding peaks. A small pebble beach provides a convenient spot to rest.
• Lower Lake – Quieter and partially woodland-fringed, this lake sits closer to the monastic ruins. The circular path around it takes about 20 minutes and is fully accessible.

Walking Trails

The valley hosts a colour-coded trail system maintained by the National Parks & Wildlife Service, with routes fanning out from the Upper Lake car park and visitor centre. In rough order of effort:

• Green Road Walk – 3 km, about an hour. The flat, wide path between the two lakes; the one to do with a buggy or after a big lunch.
• Poulanass Waterfall Walk – 1.7 km, about 40 minutes. A short climb from the Upper Lake to the falls, on a boardwalk and steps.
• Miner’s Walk – 5.4 km return, about 1.5 hours, almost flat. Follows the north shore of the Upper Lake to the ruined Miner’s Village, with panels explaining the lead workings. The best value walk here for the effort.
• Derrybawn Woodland Trail – 8 km, about 2 hours, through oak woodland on the south side of the valley.
• Spinc Loop (short) – 5.5 km, about 2 hours. Climbs the boardwalk up onto the Spinc for the aerial view down over the Upper Lake, then drops back.
• Spinc & Glenealo Valley Trail (long) – 9.5 km with roughly 380 m of ascent, about 3.5 hours. The full circuit of the ridge and the upper valley. The hardest of the marked routes, and the best if the weather holds. Mobile coverage drops off up top.
• Bronze Trail (St Kevin’s Cell) – Closed since Storm Darragh damaged it, with no reopening date. The Spinc boardwalk itself was rebuilt in 2024 and is open again. Check the visitor centre notice board before setting out.

Wildlife & Nature

The valley’s mixed deciduous and coniferous woodland supports red-breasted bullfinches, peregrine falcons, badgers and occasional otter sightings along the lake edges. Dawn and dusk offer the best light for photography, with mist frequently settling over the water in cooler months.

Practical Information

Getting There & Parking

• By car – Take the M11 south from Dublin, exit onto the R755 and follow signs to Laragh; the drive takes about an hour. Both the OPW Lower Lake car park and the Upper Lake car park charge €4 a day (€5 on the busiest days). The Upper Lake fills quickly on weekends and fine days – arrive before 10:00 in summer, or park free in Laragh village and walk in. Paying at the visitor centre car park includes one free admission to the centre.
• By bus – St Kevin’s Bus has long run a direct service from Dublin city centre to the visitor centre, from where it’s a 20-minute walk to the Upper Lake. Check the current timetable before relying on it.

Visitor Centre & Facilities

• Hours – Mid March to 14 Oct: 09:30–18:00 (last admission 17:15). 15 Oct to Mid March: 09:30–17:00 (last admission 16:15). Closed 23–29 December.
• Admission – €5 adult, €4 group/senior, €3 child/student, €13 family (4 people). Parking is charged separately.
• Accessibility – The visitor centre and Lower Lake path are wheelchair accessible. The historic graveyard and most marked trails have uneven or steep surfaces.
• Facilities – Café, free Wi-Fi, baby-changing, first-aid station with AED. Toilets close at 16:15 between mid-October and mid-March.
• Dogs – Generally welcome on a lead on the trails and in the car parks; keep them out of the fenced monastic enclosure, and check current signage.
• Services – No ATM on site. The nearest cash points are in Laragh (petrol station, limited hours) and Rathdrum (24-hour).
• Talks & resources – The centre runs free lectures on Irish heritage over the summer. Free social guides for adults and children are available at the desk and online via the Heritage Ireland website.

Events & Seasonal Notes

• Festival of St Kevin – Held in June, marking the valley’s founding saint.
• Bealtaine Festival – An arts festival for the community’s older members in May, with drama, music and dance.
• Walking Festival – Runs each October, starting from Laragh.
• St Laurence O’Toole Festival – In November.
• Brockagh Market & Car Boot – In Laragh on the second Sunday of each month (except January and February), roughly 10am to 3pm.

Nearby Attractions

• Camaderry Mountain Walk – A steep ascent starting near the Spinc trailhead, with direct views down into the Glendalough basin. (Camaderry)
• Avoca Valley – A short drive to the south, known for the Handweaving Mill, river walks and the Avonmore River headwaters.
• Blessington Lakes – North over the mountains, offering boating, fishing and quieter woodland trails. (Blessington)

Frequently Asked Questions

• Can I swim in the lakes? – Better not to. The water is cold and the Upper Lake drops to around 30 m, and this is a conservation site rather than a swimming spot. Watch the signage.
• Is the site suitable for families? – Yes. The Green Road and Miner’s Walk are flat and clearly marked, and the visitor centre has child-friendly displays and downloadable activity guides.
• What should I pack? – Waterproof layers, sturdy footwear, a trail map or offline GPS, water and snacks. Mobile coverage drops right off on the Spinc ridge.
• Are there trail closures? – Yes: the Bronze Trail past St Kevin’s Cell is still shut after Storm Darragh. The rebuilt Spinc boardwalk and the other marked routes are open, though winter conditions on the ridge can call for trekking poles.

Do the monastic city and the Lower-to-Upper Lake walk first thing, before the coaches arrive, and save the Spinc for a clear afternoon. Check the notice board at the visitor centre on your way in – trail conditions here change with the weather.