Overview
Glenullin is a scattered village and valley in the hills between Garvagh, Swatragh and Dungiven, in the Coleraine district of County Londonderry. Known locally as “The Glen”, it lies about 27 miles from Derry, the nearest city, so roughly a 45-minute drive rather than the half-hour you might expect. There are no ticketed attractions or visitor centres here. The valley rewards those happy to wander off the main road, walk unpaved paths, and take in the everyday rhythm of a place where the parish and the GAA club are much the same thing. If you have time for one thing, make it the Gortnamoyagh inauguration stone in the forest: a genuine link to how Gaelic chieftains were once installed.
Walking the Landscape
The valley’s natural character is defined by its water and peat. Glenullin Bog is a protected raised bog nature reserve, given protection after severe damage from commercial peat extraction in 1994. Turf-cutting has long since stopped, and conservation work now focuses on re-wetting the landscape to bring back native sphagnum moss and bog flora. While the interior of the reserve remains closed to protect sensitive habitats and ongoing work, the perimeter paths offer excellent vantage points for quiet observation.
Just a short walk from the bog’s edge lies Glenullin Lough, a small, sheltered body of water that reflects the surrounding fields and sky. It’s a peaceful spot for a short stroll, photography, or simply sitting on the bank with a packed lunch. The southern bank of the Agivey River also forms a natural corridor through the valley, with gentle trails that wind past marshy clearings and mature woodland edges. In late spring and early summer, the damp ground brings out sundews, bog asphodel and a variety of wildflowers, while the overhanging trees provide shelter for nesting birds.
Ancient Stones & Early History
The landscape around Glenullin has been shaped by human activity for millennia. Archaeological surveys have identified Iron Age forts, ringforts and ritual cairns across the surrounding hills, though many are now overgrown or folded into field boundaries. The clearest survival is Errigal Old Church, at the junction of Churchtown Road and Ballyrogan Road, said to have been founded by St Adamnan in the 7th century. The ruined medieval church stands in a walled graveyard alongside a rock-cut souterrain and a bullaun stone, a hollowed boulder of the kind used in early Christian rites.
The single most striking monument, though, is the Gortnamoyagh Inauguration Stone, tucked into Gortnamoyagh Forest. The weathered slab bears two carved footprints and a mark for a staff, and was used until the 16th century to install local Gaelic chieftains: the new lord would stand in the footprints to take up his lordship. There is room for one or two cars at a forest track off Gortnamoyagh Road, and a short walk in from there. No guide, no fee, just the stone and the trees.
Community & Gaelic Games
At the heart of modern Glenullin is John Mitchel’s GAC, the parish’s Gaelic Athletic Association club. Its grounds at Seán Ó Maoláin Park host Gaelic football, camogie and ladies’ football, from underage sides in the North Derry leagues up to senior county competition. For a village this size it has produced a striking number of Derry county footballers, among them Paddy and Eoin Bradley, Gerard O’Kane and Dermot McNicholl. Match days turn the quiet valley into a gathering of supporters, family picnics and the noise of the game carrying across the pitches.
The club’s roots are scattered around the valley. The original pitch at Tinkers Park, in Coolcoscreghan townland, is grazing land again, and the old corrugated meeting hall, green with a red roof, at the Glenullin Road and Lisnascreghog Road junction still stands, abandoned. The modern parish church, St Joseph’s on Glen Road, is generally open through the day, roughly 10am to 4pm.
Practical Information
- Getting there: Glenullin is easily reached via the A6 road between Derry and Belfast, with the B165 providing local access through the surrounding villages. Public transport options are limited in this rural area, so travelling by car is strongly recommended.
- Parking: Free parking is available at the GAC grounds and at designated roadside lay-bys near the lough and bog perimeter. Please avoid parking on private land or blocking farm tracks.
- What to bring: The valley’s damp microclimate means the ground can be soft and muddy, even on dry days. Sturdy waterproof shoes, layered clothing and a light rain jacket are essential. Binoculars and a camera will enhance your experience, particularly for spotting wildlife and photographing the stone monuments.
- Visitor etiquette: Stay on established footpaths and respect all signage around the nature reserve. The bog’s interior is closed to protect fragile peat habitats and restoration work. Dogs are welcome on leads, and all litter should be taken home.
- Best time to visit: Late spring through early autumn offers the most reliable weather for walking, along with peak bird activity and the bog flora in flower. Autumn brings deep colour to the drumlin slopes and fewer walkers on the trails.
There is no café or visitor centre to build a day around, so bring a flask and a packed lunch. Time it for a Sunday and check the club’s social media first: a Glenullin match day, with cars along the lanes and the shouts carrying across the pitch, tells you more about the place than any of its stones.