Overview
Carbery’s Hundred Isles stretch across Roaringwater Bay and Long Island Bay on Ireland’s far-south-west coast. Despite the romantic title, there are only about fifty of them – islands, rocky islets and submerged outcrops rather than a full hundred. The Gulf Stream keeps the climate mild, so patches of lush vegetation grow among the treeless, bog-covered hills, fringed by Atlantic cliffs and sheltered pebble beaches. Only three are inhabited year-round; the rest run from summer grazing grounds to bird sanctuaries. With a single day, Sherkin is the easy pick – barely eight minutes from Baltimore, with three sandy beaches – while Cape Clear, the largest, rewards a longer trip or an overnight stay.
The Name & History
The phrase “Carbery’s Hundred Isles” entered the popular imagination through Thomas Davis’s 1844 poem The Sack of Baltimore, which romanticised the landscape following the 1631 privateer raid on the fishing village of Baltimore. Jonathan Swift knew these waters too, visiting in the 1720s and writing a poem about the area. Historically, these waters formed the outer edge of the medieval Barony of Carbery, a semi-independent territory long controlled by the seafaring O’Driscoll clan. The islands were strategic outposts for trade, refuge, and, at times, piracy. That maritime heritage remains visible in the scattered castle ruins, fortified farmsteads, and traditional stone walls that dot the shorelines.
Island Highlights
Cape Clear Island (Oileán Cléire)
The largest and most accessible of the group, Cape Clear is a cultural hub and a designated Irish-language summer school location. Key features include:
- Ancient & Medieval Sites: A 5,000-year-old passage grave, the ruins of a 12th-century church, and a 14th-century castle keep.
- Wildlife & Nature: A dedicated bird observatory tracking resident and migratory seabirds, plus a working goat farm, a lavender farm that holds an annual festival, and coastal walking trails.
- Events: The annual Cape Clear Storytelling Festival (early September) and the O’Driscoll Clan gathering (June). Visit capeclearstorytelling.com for dates.
Sherkin Island (Inis Arcáin)
A short hop from Baltimore, Sherkin balances rugged natural beauty with well-preserved heritage:
- Historic Ruins: The 15th-century Franciscan friary and Dún na Long (Fort of the Ships), the former O’Driscoll stronghold.
- Landscape: Three sandy beaches, a natural lagoon, and the dramatic cliffs of Horseshoe Harbour. The island’s high ground offers sweeping views across the bay.
- Maritime Heritage: The island’s historic lighthouse overlooks Baltimore Harbour, marking one of the region’s busiest shipping lanes.
Heir Island (Inis Uí Drisceoil)
Once a strategic clan base, Heir Island is now a quiet retreat known for watersports and fine dining:
- Sailing & Water Activities: Home to the Irish Sailing Association training centre at Roaringwater Lodge, with seven beaches, sea caves, and sheltered creeks ideal for kayaking and diving.
- Dining: The award-winning Island Cottage restaurant serves locally sourced seafood and hosts weekend culinary workshops. Details at islandcottage.com.
Long Island (Inis Fada)
A narrow, five-kilometre stretch of land that once thrived on copper mining:
- Copper Point Beacon: The striking lighthouse has guided vessels into Schull Harbour since 1865.
- Walking & History: Peaceful coastal paths wind past old mine remnants and traditional stone cottages. The island is easily reached via a five-minute ferry crossing from Colla Pier.
The Skeams & Smaller Outcrops
Islands like the Skeams, Goat Island, and the Calf Islands are primarily used for grazing but offer unspoiled access to nature. The Skeams have quiet beaches good for picnics or spotting grey seals. These smaller landforms are best visited by kayak or on a guided boat tour, and none of them have facilities, so bring what you need.
Getting There & Ferry Tips
Access to the Hundred Isles relies on a network of local ferry services and commercial operators. Timetables vary seasonally, and some crossings are tide-dependent.
| Departure Point | Destination | Approx. Crossing | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Baltimore Harbour | Cape Clear | 40–45 min | Year-round passenger ferry |
| Baltimore Harbour | Sherkin Island | 8 min | Frequent year-round service |
| Schull (Colla Pier) | Long Island | 5 min | Summer schedule; high frequency |
| Baltimore / Cunnamore | Heir Island | 20 min / 5 min | Year-round; private & commercial operators |
Commercial operators like Cape Clear Ferries run combined island-hopping and wildlife tours, often including photo stops at Fastnet Rock Lighthouse. Book vehicle spaces well in advance during summer weekends, and always check weather conditions before travelling, as Atlantic swells can cancel crossings with little notice.
Practical Information
- Accommodation: Cape Clear offers B&Bs, guesthouses, and a small hotel, many serving locally caught seafood. Sherkin has self-catering cottages and pubs with rooms. Heir Island features lodging at Roaringwater Lodge. Long Island is best visited as a day trip, with limited holiday homes available.
- Fees & Access: Landing on the islands is free. Guided heritage tours, the Cape Clear bird observatory, and specialised workshops typically charge between €5 and €10. Verify current rates on individual island websites.
- Best Time to Visit: Spring and early autumn offer milder winds and fewer crowds, ideal for walking and birdwatching. Summer provides the most reliable ferry schedules and warmest swimming conditions, but book accommodation and vehicle ferries weeks ahead.
- What to Bring: Comfortable walking shoes, layered clothing (coastal weather shifts quickly), and a reusable water bottle. Several islands have small convenience stores, but selection can be limited.
Further Exploration
If you have time to extend your coastal itinerary, a short trip to Adam Island in Roaringwater Bay offers quiet beaches and excellent birdwatching. For those interested in deeper maritime history, the nearby Mizen Peninsula features shipwreck trails and the historic Baltimore Beacon Walk. Always consult the official Hundred Isles guide for up-to-date ferry schedules, tidal information, and island-specific alerts before setting out.