Overview
Six church ruins stand on this uninhabited island in Lough Ree, the oldest of them a stone box barely 8 ft by 7 ft inside. Inis Clothrann, known as Inchcleraun and locally as Quaker Island, covers 57.7 hectares (143 acres), runs about 1.6 km long and up to 600 m wide, which makes it one of the largest of the lough’s 52 islands. It sits about a mile off Portrunny, close to where the Roscommon–Longford border runs down the middle of the lake.
Nobody lives here now. Cattle and goats graze the grassy slopes, and ducks, swans and greylag geese work the sheltered bays. The only way over is by boat, most often from Barley Harbour near Newtowncashel or from Portrunny, a crossing of about fifteen minutes. If you have half a day and any interest in early Irish monasticism, this is one of the more rewarding boat trips on the Shannon.
History & Legends
The Gaelic name Inis Clothrann means “Clothra’s Island”, after Clothra, sister of the legendary Queen Maeve of Connacht, who is said to have lived and died here. Christian tradition credits the foundation to St Diarmaid the Just, who established a monastery around 540 AD. His tiny oratory, Teampall Diarmaid, is the oldest surviving structure on the island. Later, in the 12th century, Inis Clothrann was home to Gilla na Naemh Ua Duinn (1102–1160), remembered in the annals as its lector and “a paragon in history and poetry”.
The community endured centuries of raids. Viking fleets struck Lough Ree in the 9th and 10th centuries, and Munster forces later did the same. The monks kept rebuilding, and by the 13th century six churches stood within a stone-and-earth cashel.
The nickname Quaker Island dates to the early 1800s, when Edward Fairbrother, a Quaker from Ballymurray in Co. Roscommon, leased the land from Lady Featherstone and built a cottage using stones robbed from the Clogás oratory. Local legend has it that this disturbed St Diarmaid’s spirit and sent the livestock running wild until Fairbrother swore never to touch the sacred stones again. The name stuck, and was already in use on the maps by 1832.
Exploring the Ruins
The island and its monastic sites were designated a National Monument in 1880 (reference no. 91), and protective railings now fence off four of the churches to keep grazing animals off the fragile stonework. As you wander the cashel, you will encounter:
- Teampall Diarmaid (St Diarmaid’s Oratory): A rectangular oratory measuring just 8 ft by 7 ft internally, and reputedly the smallest church in Ireland. It was likely the founder’s own chapel.
- Teampall Mór (Great Church): The largest ruin on the island, dating to the 13th century. It features an L-shaped nave, two lancet windows, and a distinctive upper chamber.
- Teampall Clogas (Square-tower Oratory): Also 13th-century, this church is easily recognised by its unique square bell-tower attached directly to the nave. It is one of the most photographed structures on the island.
- Teampall Murry (Chancel Church): A medieval ruin carrying an old warning that any woman who enters will die within the year.
- Teampall na Marbh (Church of the Dead): Historically used for wake-keeping before burials, this roofless ruin offers a quiet spot for reflection.
- Teampall na mBan (Women’s Church): A smaller medieval structure that once served the island’s female religious community.
Wildlife and landscape
Beyond the ruins, the island’s reed beds and sheltered bays hold ducks, swans, greylag geese and various waders. Early morning is the best time to see them, before the day warms up.
The surrounding waters of Lough Ree are also popular with kayakers and paddle-boarders, who use the island’s shoreline as a natural waypoint. Anglers frequently target the sheltered east bay for roach, perch, and pike, though there are no dedicated fishing platforms on the island itself. If you bring a dog, keep them on a short lead and well clear of nesting areas and the monastic ruins.
Getting There & Practical Tips
- Boat access: Private hire boats and guided day-trips run from Barley Harbour and Portrunny, roughly a fifteen-minute crossing. Lough Ree Access For All runs 90-minute boat trips in season (May to September), departing at 10am, noon and 2.30pm in summer. Services are weather-dependent, so check ahead.
- Landing points: Approach from the east; the western side at Killime is shallow and ringed with shoals, unsuitable for all but the shallowest boats.
- What to bring: There are no facilities on the island. Pack water, snacks, sun protection, and sturdy footwear for navigating uneven stone paths and grassy slopes.
- Respect the site: Stay on marked paths, do not climb on the ruins, and carry out all litter. The island is a protected heritage site and an active wildlife habitat.
- Best time to visit: Late spring through early autumn provides the mildest weather, longest daylight hours, and peak bird activity.
Nearby Attractions
A trip to Inis Clothrann pairs well with other historic and natural sites around Lough Ree and County Longford:
- Barley Harbour: Your departure point for the island, featuring a pleasant limestone shoreline and quiet waters.
- Corlea Trackway Visitor Centre: A short drive north, built around a remarkably preserved Iron Age bog road, with riverside walking trails.
- Abbeyshrule: A historic village on the western shore of Lough Ree, home to a 12th-century abbey and a traditional small harbour.
- Lanesborough: A Shannon town where seasonal boat tours sometimes operate, and a handy base for the Shannon riverside walks.
- Abbeylara: Nearby Cistercian abbey ruins that provide a striking contrast to the early-Christian architecture of Inis Clothrann.
Allow at least two hours on the island to walk the full cashel, and go on a weekday if you can, when the lough is quieter. There are no facilities of any kind out here, so bring water and everything else you’ll need, and carry it all back off with you.