Overview
The first thing to know about Inishmurray is that you can no longer land on it: since 2018, boats circle the island but no one steps ashore. That’s a loss and a protection both – the island holds one of the best-preserved early monastic settlements in Ireland, and keeping feet off it guards both the archaeology and the birds. It sits about 7 km off the coast of County Sligo in Donegal Bay, roughly 3.75 km long and 0.75 km wide – about 222 acres (0.9 km²) of low-lying Carboniferous sandstone. It’s a National Monument and a Special Protection Area for birds. Inis Muireadhaigh means “Muiredach’s island”.
The Monastic Settlement
The island’s spiritual heart lies within a massive drystone cashel (enclosure wall) that reaches up to 4.6 metres in height and is nearly 3 metres thick in places. Founded around the 6th century by Saint Molaise (also known as Laisrén, meaning “lesser light”), the monastic complex contains some of Ireland’s best-preserved early Christian structures. Inside the enclosure, you’ll find the ruins of three churches – Teach Molaise, Templemolaise, and Templenatinny – alongside a stone-roofed oratory, a clochán (beehive cell), and a graveyard that was still in use into the mid-20th century. There is also evidence of much older activity: possible Neolithic and Bronze Age remains, including a probable burial structure near Clashymore harbour. The settlement’s exposed position drew Viking raids in 795 and again in 807.
Scattered across the island are sixteen leachta (stone altars or cairns), each traditionally dedicated to a saint and forming a circular pilgrimage route that begins and ends at the cashel. Just south of the main enclosure lies the Women’s Church (Teampall na mBan), a separate walled complex with its own burial ground and cross-inscribed stones. Among the most talked-about features are the Clocha Breaga (cursing stones): local tradition held that turning one of these speckled stones clockwise with the sun would bring a blessing, while turning it against the sun would invoke a curse. Much of the island’s finest early metalwork is no longer here – a decorated cursing stone, a bell and a copper-clad wooden crozier ascribed to St Molaise were carried off by Roger Chambers Walker around 1842 and remain at Alnwick Castle in England, while a statue of the saint is now in the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin.
Life & Departure
After the monks gradually abandoned the site around the 12th century, the island saw intermittent secular settlement. By the early 19th century, a small community had re-established itself, relying on lobster fishing, cattle grazing, and the illicit distillation of póitín (locally referred to simply as “whiskey”). The population peaked in the 1880s, when 102 residents lived across 15 modest houses, supported by a local school built in 1889.
Life on the Atlantic edge was unforgiving. Fuel shortages, sugar rationing during World War II, and the closure of the motorboat supply service made survival increasingly difficult. On 12 November 1948, the remaining 46 islanders were evacuated to the mainland, with replacement homes built in Moneygold, County Sligo. Their abandoned stone cottages and the roofed schoolhouse still line the island’s central street, a quiet glimpse into a vanished way of life. The community even kept a customary title, the “King of Inishmurray”; the last man to hold it, Michael Waters, died in January 1951, three years after the island emptied.
Wildlife & Landscape
With human activity gone, nature has reclaimed Inishmurray. The island is a designated Special Protection Area and hosts nationally significant populations of seabirds. Breeding species include arctic and common terns, shags, eider ducks, black guillemots, and fulmars. From October to April, the cliffs and grassy slopes are joined by thousands of wintering barnacle geese, one of the largest colonies in Europe. The flora is equally undisturbed, featuring purple loosestrife, sea thrift, wild thyme, and carpets of bluebells in late spring.
The island’s Carboniferous sandstone coastline is carved into dramatic sea-caves and narrow indentations known locally as classeys. Notable examples include Clasaí Mór (the big indent), Clasaí na Muice (the indent of the pig), and Clasaí na gCloch (the indent of the stones). On clear days, the western cliffs offer striking views back toward the Sligo mainland, with the distinctive silhouette of Ben Bulben and Knocknarea framing the horizon.
Access & Viewing
Important: Since 2018, the Marine Survey Office has prohibited commercial landings on Inishmurray due to safety concerns during embarkation and disembarkation. The island remains private land, with the monastic monuments managed by the Office of Public Works. Public landing facilities are not available, and the site has no fixed opening hours.
Visitors can still see the island up close through licensed charter boats, which run from both Rosses Point and Mullaghmore. These vessels circle the island, giving good vantage points for photographing the cliffs, sea-caves, and monastic walls from the water. While you cannot set foot on the island without a special research or heritage permit from the OPW, the boat-based approach ensures the fragile ecosystem and archaeological site remain undisturbed.
Practical Visiting Tips
- Booking: Trips run in fair weather only and must be booked ahead through licensed operators at Rosses Point or Mullaghmore, such as Inishmurray Island Trips (087 254 0190) or Ewing’s Sea Angling and Boat Charters (086 891 3618).
- What to bring: Binoculars and a zoom lens are essential for birdwatching and photographing the ruins from the water. Dress in warm, waterproof layers as Atlantic winds can be sharp year-round.
- Best time to visit: May to July offers the best conditions for spotting breeding terns and shags, while October to April brings the barnacle geese. Late spring also brings bluebells and wildflowers to the island’s slopes.
- Safety & etiquette: Stay on board at all times. The island’s seabird colonies and archaeological features are legally protected; disturbing them or attempting unauthorised landings is an offence.
- Departure point: Confirm whether your trip leaves from Rosses Point or Mullaghmore when you book, as operators run from both and it changes the drive.
Cultural Legacy
Inishmurray’s stark beauty and layered history have long inspired writers and artists. Robert Lloyd Praeger described it in 1937 as a “low islet… much exposed to Atlantic storms” yet rich in early Christian antiquities. Eileen Battersby’s 2003 account in The Irish Times captured the island’s atmospheric blend of pilgrimage, wildlife, and abandoned settlement. The island continues to feature in academic studies, folklore collections, and the works of authors like Joe McGowan, ensuring that the stories of its monks, islanders, and birds remain part of Sligo’s living heritage.
Nearby Attractions
- Ballygilgan Nature Reserve – A mainland coastal sanctuary just south of Mullaghmore, offering excellent birdwatching and walking trails.
- Benbulben Forest Walk – A loop around Sligo’s flat-topped landmark mountain, with wide views of the Atlantic coastline.
- Rosses Point – A historic harbour village with cafés, pubs, and the departure point for island charters.
Checking tide times and weather forecasts is essential before booking any coastal charter. Rosses Point operators monitor conditions closely and will advise if a trip needs to be postponed for safety or wildlife protection reasons.