Overview
Lettermore isn’t one island but two joined halves – eastern Leitir Móir (“great rough hillside”) and western Leitir Calaidh, Lettercallow – set among the cluster of Irish-speaking islands that locals call Ceantar na nOileán, the district of the islands. A road causeway, the R374, links the lot to the mainland. There’s no single sight to tick off here. The point of Lettermore is the drive and the language: this is one of the strongest Gaeltacht communities left, where Irish is the first tongue in the shop and at the pier, and the population (542 at the 2022 census) has been climbing again after bottoming out at 503 in the 1990s.
Come for that, not for the facilities. There’s little in the way of cafés or signage, the mobile signal is patchy, and if you want a beach you’ll be hunting small unmarked coves rather than a strand with a car park.
History & The Connemara Pony
For centuries the thin, stony ground shaped both the people and the animals bred on it, and Lettermore has a strong claim to be the heartland of the Connemara pony – a hardy, sure-footed breed that’s become a symbol of the whole region.
Its origins are argued over. Some trace it to Scandinavian stock brought by Viking settlers, others to the extinct “Irish Hobby” workhorse, while local legend has it that Andalusian horses swam ashore when Spanish Armada galleons wrecked off the Galway coast in 1588 and bred with the native stock. Whatever the truth, the pony is still worked and shown by local farms, and it’s the thread that ties the island’s farming past to its present.
What to See & Do
Walking & Coastal Exploration
The R374 winds between boulders and tidal water, and the western edge of Lettercallow gives you an uninterrupted run of open Atlantic. For a proper stretch of the legs, cross to neighbouring Lettermullan and follow the marked trail out to Golam Head, an exposed point where the waves break against the rocks and a lone signal tower stands watch. The shoreline hides small sandy coves – the best of them on Gorumna’s western side – but always check the tide tables and safety signage before swimming, as currents shift fast.
Culture & Heritage
A visit here is as much about the language as the landscape. Cafés and shops warmly welcome anyone who tries a cúpla focal (a couple of words) in Irish. For the island’s story, the Lettermullen & Garumna Heritage Centre keeps photographs, family histories and the customs of generations of farming, fishing and emigration. In the evenings, pubs like Tigh Phlunkett often carry a trad session, with fiddles, flutes and bodhráns behind the pint.
Golf & Outdoor Activities
Golfers should look up Connemara Isles Golf Club, a nine-hole links on the Atlantic edge. Designed by Eddie Hackett and opened in 1993, its 3,020-yard layout is short but exposed, with wind, deep bunkers and heather all in play. For non-golfers, the sheltered inner bays suit kayaking, and the surrounding lakes and estuaries hold fish for both freshwater and saltwater angling.
Practical Information
Getting There
- By Car: Drive the R336 west from Galway City to Casla, then follow the R374 across the causeway. The road is narrow in places, so allow extra time. There’s parking near the village centre, but spaces fill quickly in July and August.
- By Bus: Bus Éireann Route 424 runs from Galway to Lettermullan, stopping in Lettermore. Services are limited, especially outside summer, so check timetables in advance.
- By Train: The nearest station is Galway City; from there, connect by bus or hire a car.
When to Visit
June through September has the longest daylight and the mildest weather, with daytime averages around 17 °C and sea temperatures near 14 °C. Spring and autumn are quieter, but pack a waterproof and sturdy shoes – the Atlantic weather turns quickly and the coastal paths get slick.
Accommodation & Services
Lettermore has self-catering cottages, guesthouses and small hotels, many built from local stone. Larger places take cards, but many smaller pubs, cafés and stalls run on cash, so carry some notes. Mobile signal and Wi-Fi can be patchy in remote cottages; download offline maps and check connectivity when you book.
Accessibility
The natural ground here – uneven stone paths, steep coastal tracks, unpaved lanes – is hard going for wheelchair users and anyone with limited mobility. Some accommodation advertises accessible rooms, but availability is limited and worth confirming directly. Shop and heritage-centre staff are generally happy to help.
If you only do one thing, take the walk out to Golam Head on a clear afternoon, check the tide before you go, and give yourself time to stop and talk to whoever’s about in the village.