Lough Belshade

Overview

Lough Belshade sits in a shallow, wind-swept basin at the heart of the Bluestack Mountains, just a short drive from Donegal Town. Often referred to locally as the Jewel of the Bluestacks, the lake is defined by its striking geography: a round, treeless island sits in the centre, surrounded by water and framed by steep granite cliffs. There are no boardwalks, ticket booths, or café stops here. Instead, you’ll find a rugged, highland landscape that feels deliberately off the beaten track. It’s a destination for people who want to navigate boggy tracks, tackle granite faces, or simply watch the light change over a quiet Donegal valley.

History & Legends

The name Lough Belshade likely traces back to 1593, a turbulent period in Donegal’s history. According to local folklore, English raiders forced friars from a nearby abbey to flee. As they scrambled towards the lake, a sudden mist rolled in, concealing a causeway that led to the central island. The friars supposedly hid church valuables there before the waters receded and the causeway vanished.

Another persistent tale links the island to the O’Donnells, the ruling Gaelic family of Donegal until the Flight of the Earls in 1607. Locals say the O’Donnells used the island as a makeshift prison, cutting off inmates with the changing tides and weather. Whether the stories are rooted in fact or born from generations of hill-walkers sharing tales around campfires, they add a tangible layer of atmosphere to the landscape.

Landscape & Wildlife

Geologically, Lough Belshade is a textbook example of glacial activity. As the last Ice Age retreated, massive ice sheets carved the Eglish Fault through the bedrock, leaving behind a fault-line lake surrounded by drumlins and ancient granite slabs. The surrounding bogland supports a distinct highland ecosystem: bell heather and ling heather carpet the slopes, while Sphagnum moss, sundew, and butterwort thrive in the wetter hollows.

Wildlife sightings are common for those who move quietly. Otters are frequently spotted at the nearby Lough Nacollum, and ravens use the thermal updrafts to circle the high cliffs. The lake’s clear waters often reveal fish holding just below the surface, and in late spring, the adjacent forest floor turns into a carpet of bluebells, primroses, and bilberry.

Walking Routes

The Bluestack Way Loop (10 km)

The most accessible route joins the Bluestack Way from Donegal Town. After heading towards Killybegs on the N56, turn right for Solis Lough Eske Castle and follow the Bluestack Way signage for roughly 3.5 km. A gravel track branches off to a lay-by beneath the forest, where a short walk leads to the main trailhead.

The route climbs steadily past Banagher Hill, drops into the Eglish Valley, and follows an old bog track to the lake. The ground near the shore becomes soft and wet, so waterproof boots are essential. The island is best viewed from the eastern shore, where the granite cliffs reflect directly onto the water.

Longer & More Technical Options

For experienced hill-walkers, a 5-hour route starts at the hydro-dam near Edrigole, requiring a 4×4 for the initial approach and a steady ascent through rough terrain. The MountainViews database also records an 18.1 km circuit (Track 1980) that loops around Lough Belshade before climbing Croaghgorm. This route involves 676 m of ascent and should only be attempted with solid navigation skills, as access points have shifted over the years.

Rock Climbing

Lough Belshade is one of Donegal’s most reliable granite climbing venues. The main south-east-facing buttress rises approximately 100 m above the lake, offering single-pitch routes on clean, hard mountain granite. Classic lines include Byzantium (a historic 5-pitch VS route first climbed in the 1950s) and the more approachable Classical Revival (V-Diff). Six additional crags form a natural staircase around the lake, ranging from gentle slabs to steep crack systems.

A free Lough Belshade climbing guidebook is available from Unique Ascent. The south-east exposure means the rock dries quickly after rain, keeping the crag active through summer. Winter climbing is possible but heavily dependent on weather windows.

Camping & Nearby Summits

A small sandy beach below the Belshade Buttress provides a discreet wild camping spot. The Irish Mountaineering Club notes that tents can be pitched here with direct access to the climbing routes and unobstructed lake views. Follow standard Leave-No-Trace principles, ensure you have permission if the land falls under private ownership, and pack a sturdy tent capable of handling highland winds.

For panoramic views, detour north-east to the summit of Ardnageer (Ard na gCaor, 642 m). A rocky ridge connects it to Croaghbane, and the cairn-marked peak delivers 360° views across the Bluestacks, Donegal Bay, and the distant Sligo range. Adding this ascent transforms a standard lake visit into a proper ridge walk.

Access & Getting There

The most practical parking spot is a lay-by beneath the forest at grid reference G963 937, about 1.5 km up the rough track from the Bluestack Way junction. It fits a handful of cars and a small van. A 4×4 is strongly recommended during wet weather, as the final kilometre includes gravel surfaces and boggy dips that can trap low-clearance vehicles.

Directions from Donegal Town: Follow the N56 towards Killybegs. After roughly 500 m, turn right for Solis Lough Eske Castle. Continue on Bluestack Way signs for 3.5 km, then turn left at Eas Dun Lodge B&B onto the climbing track. Allow 15–20 minutes driving time from town centre to the trailhead.

Practical Information

Lough Belshade is a natural site with no formal opening hours and free entry. There are no visitor facilities, so bring all your own water, food, and navigation tools. A detailed map, compass, and reliable waterproof layers are essential. The terrain includes unmarked bog sections and steep inclines, so confident navigation and a reasonable fitness level are required.

Seasonal timing: Late spring (May–June) offers bluebells, primroses, and firmer ground. Summer provides the most stable conditions for climbing, while autumn brings intense colour to the heather and bog plants. Weather in the Bluestacks shifts quickly; check the Met Éireann forecast before setting out, and turn back if visibility drops below 50 metres. For accommodation and dining, Donegal Town is a 15-minute drive away and offers a full range of B&Bs and restaurants.