Overview
Lough Belshade, often called the Jewel of the Bluestacks, lies in the heart of the Bluestack Mountains in County Donegal. The lake sits in a shallow basin framed by sheer granite cliffs, with a small round island that has inspired legends of O’Donnell prisoners and hidden treasure. The surrounding landscape is a patchwork of drumlins, heather‑covered bogs and ancient forest, offering a sense of wilderness that feels far removed from the tourist trail.
History & Legends
The name Lough Belshade may date back to 1593, when English raiders forced friars from a nearby abbey to flee. According to local lore, a sudden mist descended over the lake, revealing a causeway to the island where the friars hid valuables before returning to shore. Another tale links the island to the O’Donnells, the ruling family of Donegal until the Flight of the Earls in 1607, who allegedly used it as a makeshift prison – a Donegal‑style Alcatraz. These stories add a mysterious layer to the already dramatic scenery.
Landscape & Wildlife
The lake is a classic glacial feature, formed when retreating ice carved a fault line – the Eglish Fault – through the Bluestacks. The surrounding granite slabs, interspersed with drumlins, illustrate the power of the last Ice Age. The bogland around the lake supports two types of heather (bell and ling), Sphagnum moss, sundew and butterwort, making it a botanist’s delight.
Wildlife is abundant. Otters are frequently spotted at the neighbouring Lough Nacollum, ravens circle the high cliffs, and the lake’s clear waters sometimes reveal fish darting beneath the surface. In spring the adjacent forest bursts with bluebells, primroses and a carpet of bilberry bushes.
Walking Routes & What to See
The Bluestack Way Loop (10 km)
The most popular approach follows the Bluestack Way from Donegal Town. After taking the N56 towards Killybegs, turn right for Solis Lough Eske Castle and follow the Bluestack Way signs for about 3.5 km. A rough road leads to a parking area beneath the forest – ample space for cars and a short walk to the trailhead.
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Distance | 10 km (round‑trip) |
| Estimated time | 4 hours |
| Difficulty | Moderate – most of the route stays below 400 m, but navigation can be tricky in poor visibility |
| Highlights | Lanna Mór fault line, Lough Nacollum (otters), the round island, panoramic views of Donegal Bay, Sligo & Leitrim mountains, Benbulben plateau, Cuilcagh, Slieve League sea cliffs |
The walk begins on a steep incline with Banagher Hill on the left and the Bluestacks on the right. After passing the Eglish Valley, turn right at the second old bog track and follow the fault line to the lake. The terrain becomes wet near the water, but the reward is a striking view of the irregular‑shaped lake framed by high cliffs. The island in the centre is visible from the shore and makes a perfect subject for photography.
Edrigole to Lough Belshade (5 hours)
Discover Ireland lists a more adventurous route that starts at the hydro‑dam near Edrigole. The trek involves a rough‑road approach in a 4×4, then a steady ascent to the lake. This walk is suitable for experienced walkers with moderate fitness and includes off‑road sections.
MountainViews Track 1980 (18.1 km)
For the long‑distance hiker, MountainViews records an 18.1 km circuit that incorporates Lough Belshade before climbing the remote summit of Croaghgorm. The track has an ascent of 676 m and a predicted time of 4 h 45 m plus breaks. As of 2012 there were reported access issues in parts of the area, so checking the latest local advice is advisable.
Rock Climbing
Lough Belshade is one of Donegal’s premier granite climbing venues. The main south‑east‑facing buttress rises about 100 m above the lake and offers a series of single‑pitch routes on immaculate mountain granite. Classic climbs include the historic Byzantium (5‑pitch VS, first ascended by Frank Winder in the 1950s) and the easier Classical Revival (V‑Diff). Six additional crags form a “staircase” of varied styles, from slab to steep crack lines.
The area is described in the free Lough Belshade climbing guidebook available from Unique Ascent (www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide). Routes are well‑protected, and the south‑east exposure means the rock dries quickly after rain, making it a popular summer crag. Winter climbing is possible but limited by the region’s weather patterns.
Camping
A small sandy beach lies below the Belshade Buttress, offering a discreet spot for wild camping. The Irish Mountaineering Club notes that a tent can be pitched here, providing dramatic lake views and easy access to the climbing routes. Campers should follow Leave‑No‑Trace principles, obtain permission if land is privately owned, and be prepared for changeable weather.
Nearby Summits & Views
The summit of Ardnageer (Ard na gCaor, 642 m) lies a short detour north‑east of the lake and provides excellent 360° panoramas of the Bluestacks, Donegal Bay and the distant Sligo mountains. The peak is marked by a cairn and can be reached via a rocky ridge from Croaghbane (see MountainViews for route details). Adding this ascent turns the Lough Belshade walk into a rewarding ridge‑walk.
Access & Parking
The most convenient car park is a lay‑by beneath the forest at grid reference G963 937 (approximately 1.5 km up the rough track from the Bluestack Way junction). It accommodates a few cars and a small van; a 4×4 is advisable in wet conditions. From the lay‑by, a short, well‑marked track leads to the trailhead.
Road conditions: The final kilometre to the parking area is a gravel road with occasional boggy sections. In winter or after heavy rain the surface can become slippery.
Seasonal advice: Late spring (May‑June) offers the best chance of seeing bluebells, primroses and a relatively dry footing. Summer provides the most reliable climbing conditions, while autumn brings striking colour changes on the surrounding heather.
Practical Information
Lough Belshade is a natural site with no formal opening hours and free entry. There are no visitor facilities, so bring water, food and a map. A compass, good waterproof clothing and sturdy boots are essential, as the route includes wet boggy ground and unmarked sections.
Accommodation & Food – Donegal Town, about a 15‑minute drive away, offers a range of restaurants and B&Bs. Notable options include:
- Solis Lough Eske Castle – phone: 074‑972‑5100
- Eas Dun Lodge B&B – phone: 074‑972‑2628
For further assistance, the Discover Ireland tourist office in Donegal can be reached at 074‑972‑1148.
Safety – Weather in the Bluestacks can change rapidly. Carry a map, compass and rain gear. The terrain can be steep and boggy; walkers should be confident in navigation and have a reasonable level of fitness.
Getting There
From Donegal Town, follow the N56 towards Killybegs, turn right after about 500 m for Solis Lough Eske Castle, then continue on the Bluestack Way signs for another 3.5 km. A left turn at the Eas Dun Lodge B&B leads to the rough road that climbs to the parking area. The total driving time from Donegal Town to the trailhead is roughly 15 minutes.
Further Reading
- Irish Times article “The lake shines through” – a vivid description of the walk and its geology.
- Independent’s feature on Irish mountain magic, which includes a dramatic photograph of a climber above Lough Belshade.
- Irish Mountaineering Club’s “Belshade, Land of Heart’s Desire” – personal account of climbing and camping at the lake.
Whether you are chasing mythic history, seeking dramatic mountain scenery, or looking for quality granite climbs, Lough Belshade delivers an unforgettable slice of Donegal’s wild heart.