Overview
Lough Tay (Irish: Loch Té) is a small, striking lake set between the peaks of Djouce Mountain and Luggala in the Wicklow Mountains. Its almost black surface and a narrow strip of imported white sand on the northern shore create the unmistakable visual of a freshly poured pint of stout, earning it the enduring nickname Guinness Lake. The lake is dominated by the east-facing granite cliffs of Luggala, which provide a dramatic backdrop to the water.
While the lake and its immediate shoreline belong to the private Guinness Estate at Luggala, the surrounding public land along the R759 (Sally Gap Drive) offers several safe, accessible viewpoints. Visitors come for the cinematic scenery, the literary history, and the gateway it provides to Ireland’s first long-distance walking trail.
The Story Behind the Name
The name Lough Tay likely derives from the Proto-Indo-European root teh₂, meaning “to melt, dissolve, or flow” – a linguistic root shared with Scotland’s River Tay. Early maps from the 1650s Down Survey record the name as “Logh Tea,” long before tea became a common beverage in Ireland.
The “Guinness Lake” moniker stems from two sources. First, the lake sits entirely within the former Guinness Estate. In 1937, Ernest Guinness purchased the Luggala property – which dates back to 1787 and was later gothicized for the Huguenot La Touche banking family – as a wedding present for his daughter. Second, the family deliberately imported white sand to line a beach on the lake’s northern edge, crafting the distinctive dark-water-and-white-sand contrast that draws visitors today.
The estate also holds a piece of music history: the grave of Tara Browne, a friend of the Beatles, lies on the shore. His tragic death in a car accident inspired the opening line of the Beatles’ song “A Day in the Life.”
Film & TV Locations
Lough Tay’s dramatic landscape has made it a magnet for filmmakers for decades. The lake’s most famous recent appearance was in the 2024 Netflix film Irish Wish starring Lindsay Lohan, which triggered a 1,253% spike in Google searches for the location in a single week.
Before that, the lake stood in for the fictional Viking village of Kattegat in the hit series Vikings. Director John Boorman also used the location for his films Zardoz (1974) and Excalibur (1981). Other productions filmed here include Braveheart, Becoming Jane, and P.S. I Love You.
The scenery also left a mark on the philosopher Bertrand Russell. He wrote that as a young man visiting Ireland with his aunt, the beauty of Lough Tay made a profound impression on him. He returned half a century later with his friend Crompton Davies, only to realise from a wooded vantage point that you cannot truly renew old memories.
Walking Trails & Hikes
The J.B. Malone car park serves as a trailhead for several routes ranging from easy strolls to demanding mountain climbs.
- Lough Tay to Lough Dan – An easy, 8 km linear walk taking roughly 1.5 hours. Start at the kissing gate opposite Ballinastoe Woods car park. Follow the road downhill, turn left at the white cottage marked for Lough Dan, pass the farm, and cross two small bridges. Once the road ends, follow a rugged old stone wall to reach the neighbouring lake.
- Djouce Mountain Loop – A moderate 6.5 km hike (2–3 hours) that climbs to the summit of Djouce. The route rewards walkers with sweeping views of Lough Tay below and a trig point at the top. First-time climbers often add a stone to the summit cairn as a tradition.
- Luggala Loop – A more demanding 10 km circuit that climbs steeply to the Luggala summit. This route offers one of the best direct views looking down into the inky-black lake, but requires sure footing and respect for the sheer cliff edges.
- Wicklow Way Sections – The Wicklow Way, Ireland’s oldest waymarked long-distance trail, passes directly through this area. Walkers can tackle short sections between viewpoints or join the full 131 km route.
J.B. Malone Memorial & Boardwalk
A short walk from the car park sits the J.B. Malone Memorial Viewpoint, honouring John James Bernard “J.B.” Malone (1913–1989). A civil servant, army cartographer, and passionate hill-walker, Malone wrote a weekly column for the Evening Herald for decades and campaigned tirelessly for better walking routes in Ireland. His advocacy led to the creation of the Wicklow Way, opened in 1982.
The memorial features a modest granite plaque and a wooden seat. A protective boardwalk, constructed from railway sleepers and chicken-wire grates, winds past the stone. This boardwalk protects the fragile underlying peatland while providing a firm, accessible surface suitable for families, strollers, and wheelchair users with reasonable mobility. From here, you can gaze east across Lough Tay, with the Great Sugar Loaf visible to the north on clear days.
Viewpoints & Parking
There are several free car parks along the Sally Gap Drive. All operate on a first-come, first-served basis and fill quickly during peak season.
- Viewpoint A (Ballinastoe Woods Car Park) – Located across the road from the main lake view. Note that the land directly across is private; extreme caution is required due to steep drops.
- Viewpoint B (Lough Tay Car Park) – Offers an elevated, direct line-of-sight to the lake. This is the most popular spot for quick photos but has limited capacity.
- Viewpoint C (J.B. Malone Car Park) – The starting point for the Djouce and Wicklow Way hikes. Like Viewpoint A, the land across the road is private.
- Viewpoint D (Lough Tay Viewing Point) – The safest and most family-friendly option. You can park and see the lake clearly without needing to step onto private land or navigate near sheer drops.
Safety Warning: Several viewpoints have very sheer drops that can appear suddenly. Keep a safe distance from edges, supervise children closely, and stay on marked public paths. The narrow Military Road (R759) sees heavy tourist traffic; drive cautiously and be aware of pedestrians stepping onto the road.
Getting There
By Car: Lough Tay is approximately a 55-minute drive from Dublin city centre. Take the M50 south, merge onto the M11, and follow signs for the R759 (Sally Gap Drive). Follow the road through Roundwood until you reach the designated car parks.
By Public Transport: Take the Dublin–Glendalough bus service to Roundwood. From the bus stop, it is a steep 1.5-hour walk to the Lough Tay viewpoint. There is no formal trail for this approach, so sturdy boots and weatherproof gear are essential. Several guided half-day tours from Dublin also include a stop at Lough Tay as part of a broader Wicklow Mountains itinerary.
Practical Information
- Facilities: There are no permanent toilets, cafés, or visitor centres at the car parks. Pack out all litter and consider bringing a picnic to enjoy at the viewpoints.
- Dogs: Dogs are welcome on public footpaths but must be kept on a lead at all times. This protects ground-nesting birds and preserves the delicate peatland.
- Best Time to Visit: Late summer (July–August) brings pink-purple heather blooms to the surrounding slopes. Autumn turns the mountainsides gold and amber. Winter offers dramatic snow-capped peaks but comes with rapidly changing weather and limited daylight.
- Photography: Early morning or late afternoon light enhances the contrast between the dark water and white sand. A polarising filter can help deepen the black tones of the lake.
- Parking Tip: Arriving before 10:00 AM on weekends significantly improves the chance of securing a parking spot at the popular viewpoints, leaving ample time to hike the trails.
Nearby Attractions
- Ballinastoe MBT – Ireland’s premier mountain-bike trail centre is a short drive away, offering off-road routes for all levels.
- Glenmacnass Waterfall – A 55-metre cascade set in a lush valley, about 25 minutes by car.
- Powerscourt Waterfall – Ireland’s highest waterfall, located roughly 20 minutes away.
- Lough Ouler – A heart-shaped lake and gentle loop walk, approximately 30 minutes to the car park.
- Glendalough – The historic monastic site lies a few kilometres north and makes an excellent addition to a day-trip itinerary.
- Victor’s Way – A tranquil garden of statues and meditation spaces, just a 10-minute drive from the lake.