Overview
Set into the ruined church of St Lurach in the middle of Maghera is a carved crucifixion lintel that may be the oldest of its kind in Ireland – a genuinely rare piece of early medieval stone, and the one thing here worth going out of your way for. The town itself is a traditional Ulster market town of around 4,235 people (2021 census) in County Londonderry, strung along the A6 between Derry and Coleraine. It is more useful as a base than a destination: the Glenshane Pass and the Sperrin Mountains begin just to the south, and a scatter of good small attractions lie within a short drive.
History and heritage
Maghera begins in the 6th century with Saint Lurach, who founded a monastery on the site of the present church. The ruins of St Lurach’s Old Church still stand in the town centre, their walls largely 10th-century, and Lurach himself is said to be buried in the churchyard. The carved crucifixion lintel over the old west doorway is the real treasure, weathered but legible, and worth a slow look.
After the Plantation of Ulster the town grew into an agricultural and market centre, and in the 18th and 19th centuries it thrived on linen; the William Clarke linen works nearby trace back to 1737. That trade shaped the streets and the parish life that followed.
What to see and do
St Lurach’s Old Church
Just off the main street, the ruin is open at all times and free. Give it ten minutes for the lintel and the old carved stones, then walk back into town for a coffee; the shops and cafés are a couple of minutes away.
Maghera Heritage and Cultural Centre
Housed in the former Bradley’s bottling works, the centre covers local life, the linen trade and the town’s part in wider Ulster history, with full wheelchair access and guide dogs welcome. One honest caveat: at the time of writing its own website lists opening times as ‘re-opening soon’, with no regular hours, so don’t plan a trip around it – ring ahead on (028) 7964 2677 to check it is actually open.
Around Maghera
The countryside holds more than the town does. Tirnony Dolmen, a portal tomb whose capstone slipped in a storm a few years back, sits just outside; the Tirkane Sweathouse is a rare surviving example of the small stone sweat-houses that served as an early Irish sauna. Glenshane Country Farm runs a well-regarded farm experience with sheepdog demonstrations, and Gorta Swatraghs Famine Story is a small, strongly reviewed museum on the Great Famine, with an original soup bowl and kitchen and admission under £10.
The Glenshane Pass and the Sperrins
The Glenshane Pass climbs just south of the town, threading steep valleys with long views over the Sperrins, best in autumn when the uplands turn gold and russet. It draws cyclists, walkers and photographers; closer to home, local parks and footpaths give easier walking within the town.
Practical information
Transport and parking
The A6 runs through the town, and buses stop at the Glenshane Park and Ride, with roughly hourly services to and from Belfast and Derry (about 50 minutes from Derry) and the X3/X4 Dublin coaches calling there too. Local routes from Coleraine and Magherafelt stop by the Movie House cinema. For parking, there is free parking on Church Street opposite the medical centre, a four-minute walk from the Heritage Centre, plus time-limited spaces on Main Street.
Opening hours and fees
- St Lurach’s Old Church: open at all times, free.
- Maghera Heritage and Cultural Centre: ‘re-opening soon’ at the time of writing – check before travelling.
- Maghera Library: Monday to Friday 8am–5pm, Saturday 8am–3pm.
Accessibility
Main Street and the Heritage Centre are broadly accessible, but the church ruins have uneven ground and steps.
Getting there
Maghera lies about 15 miles west of Coleraine and roughly 34 miles – around 40 minutes’ drive – from Derry, not the short hop some listings suggest. City of Derry Airport is the nearest, about half an hour away, and Belfast is around 50 minutes by road. Its position on the A6 makes it a reasonable stopover on a wider Ulster route.