Mullaghareirk Mountains – bog and harriers

Overview

These hills hold more than a fifth of Ireland’s breeding hen harriers, which is the main reason to know them. The Mullaghareirk Mountains – Mullach an Radhairc, ‘the summit of the view’, and sometimes counted as part of Sliabh Luachra – are a low range of blanket bog and wet heath on the meeting point of Cork, Kerry and Limerick. The high point, Baraveha (Barr an Bheithe), reaches 451 m (1,480 ft), with views south over the Blackwater valley, east over the Deel and across to Castleisland, Athea and Newmarket.

Foothill villages include Rockchapel, Ballydesmond, Brosna, Gneevgullia, Mountcollins, Newmarket, Meelin and Tournafulla. The Allaughaun River, a tributary of the Feale, rises at the eastern edge and feeds the bog that covers most of the range.

History and landscape

The hills have a history of hiding people. During the agrarian risings of 1821-1824 the Rockites – followers of the folk figure Captain Rock – used this remote ground to evade the authorities, and the episode still turns up in local stories.

The Black Ditch, a linear earthwork dated to before 100 AD, cuts across the western slopes. It began as a defensive boundary and now reads as a marker of early settlement, an easy archaeological detail to fold into a walk.

Wildlife and conservation

The range sits within the Stack’s to Mullaghareirk Mountains, West Limerick Hills and Mount Eagle Special Protection Area, designated under the EU Birds Directive over its blanket bog, wet heath and dry heath. The standout is the hen harrier: 45 breeding pairs were recorded here in 2005, over 20% of the national total. Also breeding are the short-eared owl, the merlin and the red grouse, the last of which is endangered in Ireland, with European golden plover and meadow pipit common in summer.

Early mornings in spring and early summer are the time to see the raptors working the open heath.

Walking

Four waymarked loops thread the forestry, bog and farmland, all graded easy to moderate and fine for families with older children.

Parking is free and un-staffed at the Mullagharriek Forest car park near Meelin and at Mountcollins, with space for a few cars at each. Signage is clear and the going is a mix of firm path and soft heather. The ground turns boggy after rain, so wear proper boots.

Cultural stops nearby

The villages carry the interest once you leave the open hill. Newmarket runs the Newmarket Summer Festival (late June to early July) and the Newmarket Agricultural Show, both with music, crafts and local produce. The Island Wood walk, the Beara-Breifne Way and the Protestant Graveyard – burial place of Sarah Curran – are all within a short drive.

Practical information

• Access – reach the range off the N21 (Cork-Kerry) and the R579 (Limerick-Kerry). Nearest larger towns are Killarney (about 30 km) and Limerick City (about 45 km). Public transport is thin; bring a car.
• Facilities – no visitor centre on the hill. Toilets and picnic tables are in Newmarket Town Park and some village halls; pubs and cafés in Newmarket and Mountcollins do locally sourced food and Irish ales.
• Navigation – the Meelin trailhead grid reference is R 28866 17215 (52.3068°N, 9.0445°W). Google Maps, Hiiker and RouteYou all carry the loops and allow GPX download for offline use.
• Dogs – allowed on all loops but keep them under control, especially in the bird-breeding season.
• Seasonality – open all year; spring and early summer are best for the harrier and short-eared owl. Winter walks work but the daylight is short.
• Leave no trace – this is a Special Protection Area, so stay on paths, take litter home and keep clear of nesting birds.