Ox Mountains – Including Slieve Gamph Hills

Overview

The Ox Mountains, known locally as Slieve Gamph or Sliabh Gamh (‘storm mountains’), form a forty-mile spine that sweeps west-southwest from just south of Ballysadare to the County Mayo border. The range dominates the western horizon of County Sligo, overlooking Ballisodare Bay and the Atlantic coastline. Its geology is a rugged mosaic of granite, gneiss, limestone and metamorphic rock, cloaked in blanket bogs, mixed forest, and sheep-grazed pastures. At 544 metres, Knockalongy is the highest point, but the range is defined by its atmospheric moorland, scattered ancient monuments, and the network of trails that wind through its valleys and ridges.

History & Heritage

The mountains carry a deep spiritual and archaeological legacy. Early Christian records note that Saint Patrick founded modest chapels on the slopes and blessed a series of holy wells that still draw locals and visitors seeking quiet reflection. The landscape also holds evidence of much older settlements: Neolithic and Bronze Age stone circles, burial cairns, and ring forts are scattered across the higher ground. Many of these structures have survived intact largely because of long-standing local superstitions that discouraged tampering with ancient sites, fearing the wrath of the aos sí (fairies).

In the 19th century, the lower slopes saw a brief industrial phase with modest lead and copper mines. Their abandoned shafts and engine houses now stand as quiet reminders of a bygone era, carefully preserved within the upland scenery. Today, the area remains a working pastoral landscape, with the River Moy rising near Cloonacool and feeding the thriving fisheries that have sustained the region for centuries.

Walking & Hillwalking

The Ox Mountains offer routes for every fitness level, from accessible lakeside strolls to exposed ridge traverses.

• Knockalongy summit – The most popular ascent starts from Drumsheen or the road near Ballysadare. The climb weaves through blanket heather and offers intermittent Atlantic vistas. On clear days, you can see the distant Blue Stack Mountains of Donegal.
• Ridge walk – An unmarked but rewarding trek along the spine from Ballysadare to the Mayo border, passing Annatoran, Cloonacool and other lesser summits. A 1:25 000 OSNI map and compass are essential for navigation.
• Sligo Way – This 80 km long-distance trail begins at Lough Talt near Lavagh and threads through the heart of the Slieve Gamph area before ending in Dromahair (County Leitrim). The first three sections showcase sweeping panoramas over the surrounding countryside.
• Lake Loop – A circular, largely level walk around Lough Talt, suitable for families and buggies. Information boards highlight local flora and fauna, and a designated picnic spot invites a rest.
• Gorterslin Loop – A longer circuit combining quiet road sections with semi-forested tracks above Gorterslin, heading toward Mullany’s Cross. Trailheads are clearly signposted.

Mountain Biking at Coolaney

The Ox Mountains are a recognised mountain-bike playground, anchored by the Coolaney Trail Centre. Managed by Coillte and developed with Sligo County Council, Coolaney is one of Ireland’s five national mountain bike destinations. The network features over 40 km of purpose-built singletrack and forest roads, graded across blue, red, and black trails. Riders climb through pine and heathland before descending tight, twisty singletrack with berms, rollers, and rocky sections. The higher trails open up panoramic views north over Ballisodare Bay, Sligo Bay, and as far as Slieve League in Donegal.

Facilities at the trailhead include ample parking, basic public toilets, picnic benches, and detailed trail maps. Beginners should start with the blue loops, while experienced riders can tackle the red and black descents. The trails are waymarked in one direction, so follow the arrows carefully. Local clubs run regular group rides, and the area is a key stop during Sligo Bike Week each June, when a series of organised rides cross the range.

Scenic Drives & Fishing

The Ox Mountain Scenic Route winds along the lower slopes, offering frequent pull-outs for photography. The narrow but well-maintained road contrasts dark, craggy ridges with bright, verdant valleys below, making it ideal for a leisurely drive or a quiet stop to watch the light change over the moorland.

Anglers will find several productive waters in the catchment:

• Lough Fossa (Aclare) – A high-altitude lake accessed via a steep climb; free to fish and known for good-sized trout.
• Owengarve River – Flows through Curry, providing a three-mile stretch of brown trout beneath well-developed banks, stiles and bridges.
• Owenmore River – Rises near Gurteen, passes Templehouse Lake and joins the Ballysadare River, supporting both trout and salmon, especially downstream of the Owenbe.

Note that while trout, pike and coarse fishing require no licence in the Republic of Ireland, a valid rod licence is mandatory for salmon and sea trout. Always check current Inland Fisheries Ireland regulations before casting.

Practical Information

• Getting there: The nearest towns are Ballysadare and Tubbercurry. From Dublin, take the M4 to the N4, then the N17 to Sligo and follow signs to the Ox Mountains Scenic Route.
• Parking: Small free car parks are available at the trailheads near Coolaney, Ballysadare and the Lough Talt visitor area. Spaces fill quickly in summer, so arrive early or visit mid-week.
• Maps & navigation: OSNI 1:25 000 series (sheet 2) covers the whole range. The Sligo Way is way-marked with yellow arrows; other routes rely on cairns, track markers and occasional signage.
• Transport: Public buses run to Ballysadare and Tubbercurry, but a car is highly recommended for accessing trailheads, scenic pull-outs and fishing spots.
• Best season: Late spring to early autumn offers the most reliable weather and full colour of heather and wildflowers. Winter walks are possible but require sturdy boots, waterproof clothing and navigation skills.
• Safety: Weather can change rapidly on exposed ridges. Carry a map, compass, warm layers, and let someone know your intended route. Avoid old mining shafts and keep to marked paths.
• Accommodation: Bed-and-breakfasts and self-catering cottages are available in Ballysadare, Tubbercurry and the villages of Drumcliff and Drumshanbo.

Nearby Attractions

• Carrowkeel Megalithic Complex – A 30-minute drive north, offering a cluster of passage tombs dating back to 3500 BC and aligned with the winter solstice.
• Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery – One of Ireland’s largest stone-age burial sites, located near Sligo town and easily combined with a day-trip to the mountains.
• Benbulben – The iconic table-mountain west of the Ox range; the Benbulben Forest Walk provides a contrasting landscape of limestone cliffs and managed forest trails.

Check the Coolaney Trail Centre noticeboards or the Trailforks app for real-time updates on trail conditions, as heavy rain or Coillte forestry work can occasionally close specific sections. Arrive with a full tank, a packed lunch, and a willingness to follow the quiet boreens that lead deep into the uplands.