Ox Mountains – Knockalongy and the Sligo Way

Overview

The Ox Mountains are old – properly old. They were thrown up more than 600 million years ago, which makes them among the oldest mountains in Ireland, and the weather since has worn them down from real peaks to the long, low heather ridge you see today. The Irish name, Sliabh Gamh, means ‘storm mountains’.

The range runs west-southwest from just south of Ballysadare to the County Mayo border, filling the western horizon of County Sligo above Ballisodare Bay. It is a mix of granite, gneiss and metamorphic rock under blanket bog, forestry and sheep pasture. Knockalongy, at 544 m, is the high point, but the appeal is the emptiness: moorland, scattered old monuments, and a handful of trails through the valleys and along the ridge. The range is also called St Patrick’s Mountains, after the saint who is said to have built churches on the slopes and blessed wells across them.

History

The rough ground did the locals a favour. It was awkward enough that the Normans never settled here in force, which helped keep the area under Gaelic control long after other parts of Ireland had changed hands. Older still are the Neolithic and Bronze Age remains – stone circles, cairns and ring forts on the higher ground – many left untouched because tampering with the old sites was thought to invite the wrath of the aos sí, the fairies. In the 19th century there was a short-lived run of lead and copper mining on the lower slopes; the workings were done by 1900, and their ruins are still up there. The River Moy rises near Cloonacool and feeds the fisheries the region is better known for.

Walking

• Knockalongy – the usual way up starts near Ballysadare, climbing through heather with Atlantic views opening as you go; on a clear day you can pick out the Blue Stack Mountains in Donegal.
• The ridge – an unmarked traverse of the spine from Ballysadare toward the Mayo border, over Annatoran, Cloonacool and the lesser tops. There are no waymarks up here, so carry an Ordnance Survey map and compass and know how to use them.
• The Sligo Way – a long-distance trail of about 80 km (sources vary a little) running from Lough Talt through the range and on to Dromahair in County Leitrim. The western sections have the best of the mountain scenery.
• Lough Talt – an easy, largely level walk around the lake, fine for families and buggies, with a picnic spot to stop at and boards on the local wildlife.

Mountain biking at Coolaney

The Coolaney trail centre, on the eastern side of the range, is the Ox Mountains’ best-known draw for riders. Built by Coillte with Sligo County Council, it has purpose-built singletrack and forest road graded blue, red and black: climbs through pine and heath, then tight, twisty descents with berms, rollers and rocky sections. The higher trails open up views north over Ballisodare and Sligo bays and as far as Slieve League in Donegal.

The trailhead has parking, basic toilets, picnic benches and trail maps. Beginners should start on the blue loops; the red and black descents are for riders who know what they are doing. The trails are waymarked one way, so follow the arrows.

Scenic drive and fishing

The Ox Mountain scenic route runs along the lower slopes with regular pull-outs – a good slow drive, dark ridges on one side and green valleys below, and a quiet stop to watch the light change over the moorland.

There is trout fishing in the catchment too. The Owenmore River, which rises near Gurteen and runs through Templehouse Lake to the Ballysadare River, holds both trout and salmon. Trout, pike and coarse fishing need no licence in the Republic, but salmon and sea trout do, so check current Inland Fisheries Ireland rules before you cast.

Practical information

• Getting there: the nearest towns are Ballysadare and Tubbercurry; from Dublin take the M4 to the N4 to Sligo, then the N17 and signs for the scenic route.
• Parking: small free car parks at the Coolaney, Ballysadare and Lough Talt trailheads. They fill in summer, so come early or mid-week.
• Maps: use the Ordnance Survey Ireland (OSi) mapping for the range. The Sligo Way is waymarked with yellow arrows; the ridge and the open hill are not.
• Transport: buses reach Ballysadare and Tubbercurry, but you will want a car for the trailheads, the scenic pull-outs and the fishing.
• Best season: late spring to early autumn for the weather and the heather in colour. Winter is fine with sturdy boots, waterproofs and navigation skills.
• Safety: weather changes fast on the exposed tops. Carry map, compass and warm layers, tell someone your route, and keep clear of old mine shafts.

Nearby

• Carrowmore – one of Ireland’s largest megalithic cemeteries, near Sligo town and easy to fold into the same day.
• Carrowkeel – a cluster of passage tombs in the Bricklieve hills to the south, some aligned with the solstice.
• Benbulben – the flat-topped mountain north of the range, with a forest walk around its base for a complete contrast in limestone.

If you have one afternoon, make it Knockalongy: the highest point, the biggest view, and a straightforward enough climb from the Ballysadare side. If you would rather ride than walk, the Coolaney trails are the other reason to come. Check the trailhead noticeboards or the Trailforks app before you set off, as heavy rain or Coillte forestry work can shut sections at short notice.