Overview
The best thing in Portlaoise is not actually in Portlaoise. The Rock of Dunamase – a ruined Norman fortress on a bare rock outcrop, with views clear to the Slieve Blooms – sits about 6 km east, free to wander at any hour, and it is the reason most visitors come. The town itself is the workaday county capital of Laois: a commercial and retail hub rather than a beauty spot, but a genuinely handy base, with the Slieve Bloom Mountains on one side and Ireland’s Ancient East on the other, an hour from Dublin by train or motorway.
If you are heading to Dunamase, download the free audio guide first. Laois County Council has put one on the podcast apps, and it makes far more sense of the site than the sparse signage on the hill.
History
Portlaoise is reckoned to be Ireland’s first plantation town. It grew up around Fort Protector, built in 1548 by Sir Edward Bellingham to hold English control of the newly created Queen’s County, on a defensive ridge above the River Triogue. An Act of Parliament formally established the town under Mary I in 1557 as Maryborough; it took a market charter in 1567 and a borough charter in 1570.
The 19th century brought most of its architecture: the James Gandon-designed Church of Ireland on Market Square, the 1805 courthouse and the county gaol. The town was renamed Portlaoighise in 1929, later simplified to Port Laoise, and the county became County Laois. It is now the largest town in the Midlands, with a population over 23,000.
What to see and do
Most of the key sites are free and within easy reach of the town centre.
- Fort Protector: The town’s historical anchor. Remnants of the 16th-century walls and earthworks are visible on the ridge above the centre, a short walk from the main streets and free to explore.
- Rock of Dunamase: About 6 km east, these 12th-century Norman castle ruins crown a hill with panoramic views across the Slieve Bloom range. Free to visit around the clock, with a small car park.
- Timahoe Round Tower: A 30-metre 12th-century tower about 12 km south-east of the town, marking the site of St Mochua’s early monastery.
- Dunamaise Arts Centre: Housed in the former Maryborough Gaol, this is the town’s cultural hub, with cinema, live performances and exhibitions through the year.
- The Heath: An ancient archaeological landscape of earthworks and burial mounds; the open, level terrain makes it a popular spot for quiet walks.
- O’Moore Park: Home of Laois GAA, a 22,000-capacity stadium and the venue for football and hurling, liveliest in the summer championship.
Shopping and dining
The town centre runs from high-street chains in the Laois Shopping Centre and Kyle Centre to independent shops. Eating out spans budget spots on Market Square to family-run cafés and restaurants like Kelly’s Steakhouse. The Friday farmers’ market is the highlight for local produce.
Walking and nature
- River Triogue Linear Park: A traffic-free, flat trail following the Triogue for several kilometres, linking the centre with surrounding parks – easy walking or a gentle cycle.
- Togher Woods: On the edge of town, a flat 40-minute loop through broadleaf woodland, level enough for buggies and an easy family outing.
- The Great Heath of Maryborough: Low-lying heathland with marked loops, signage and clear views over the countryside.
- Slieve Bloom foothills: Short drives lead to the well-marked trails of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, from easy strolls to full-day hikes.
Just outside town
- Emo Court: A neoclassical house north of Portlaoise, run by the OPW. The parkland and lakeside walk are free, and the house itself opens for guided tours in summer.
- Stradbally Woodland Garden: A free, gentle stroll east of Portlaoise, easily paired with Dunamase or the village of Stradbally.
- Ballykilcavan Brewery: A working farm brewery near Stradbally offering tours with tastings – book ahead.
- Stradbally Steam Rally: Over the August bank holiday, a short drive away, with vintage machinery and a woodland railway.
Events and culture
Portlaoise keeps a busy calendar. The Old Fort Quarter Festival brings live music and street markets to the centre in June, the Leaves Literary Festival runs in November, and the Halloween Howls Comedy Festival lands in October. In 2026 the town hosts the Leinster Fleadh, a major gathering of traditional music, song and dance that fills the streets with sessions.
Practical Information
Transport
- Rail: Portlaoise station is a major stop on the Dublin–Cork intercity line, with up to 32 trains a day to Dublin, the first around 06:30. Book online via Irish Rail.
- Bus: City Direct runs the PL1 and PL2 town routes every half-hour. Longer services include the Dublin Coach 726 (hourly to Dublin Airport) and Bus Éireann 73 (Waterford–Portlaoise).
- Road: The M7 bypasses the town for fast links to Dublin and Cork; the N77 runs south to Abbeyleix and the N80 east to Stradbally.
Accommodation From the 4-star Midlands Park Hotel beside the railway station to the boutique Ivyleigh House B&B two minutes from the centre, with the Maldron and Killeshin hotels offering further four-star options and leisure centres.
Visitor tips
- Parking: Pay-and-display in the town centre runs Monday to Saturday, 08:30 to 17:30. A large new car park on Railway Street, near the station, is opening for cheaper long-term parking.
- Dogs: Leashed dogs are welcome at The Heath, the River Triogue Linear Park and the Rock of Dunamase, and there is a dedicated dog park, Woofland, in the town.
- Market: The Portlaoise Farmers Market runs every Friday, 10am to 3pm, with local produce, cheeses and crafts.
Time it for a Friday and you catch the farmers’ market before the ten-minute drive out to Dunamase; or in 2026, plan around the Leinster Fleadh, when the whole town turns to music.