Portmagee – Gateway to Skellig Michael, Kerry Cliffs and Valentia Island

Overview

Portmagee (Irish: An Caladh, literally “the ferry”) sits on the southern tip of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry. With a population of just over 120, the village feels like a living postcard – colourful harbour houses, a bustling pier and the iconic Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge that links the mainland to Valentia Island. In 2012 Portmagee became the first Irish settlement to win the Fáilte Ireland National Tourism Town Award, a testament to its blend of natural beauty, heritage and warm hospitality.

History

The name Portmagee derives from Captain Theobald Magee, an 18th‑century smuggler who used the maze of inlets along the southwest coast to traffic spirits, textiles and tea. After a colourful career, Magee died in a Lisbon monastery, but his family continued the trade, leaving a legacy that still colours the village’s identity. The Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge, opened in 1970, replaced the historic ferry service and is named after an IRA member executed in 1942. The village also preserves a unique New Year tradition called the “Old Year” celebration, first recorded in 1727, where a procession reenacts the passing of the old year and the arrival of the new.

What to See & Do

Skellig Michael and the Skellig Experience Centre

Portmagee is the launch point for trips to Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its 6th‑century monastic settlement and its starring role in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. Boat operators such as Skellig Michael Cruises run three daily landings (approximately 2.5 hours each) from May to September, weather permitting. For those who prefer a less strenuous view, the Skellig Experience Centre – a five‑minute walk over the bridge – offers a short film, replica beehive huts and underwater life displays.

Kerry Cliffs

Just 1.5 km north of the village, the Kerry Cliffs rise 305 m above the Atlantic, offering panoramic vistas of the Skellig Islands, Little Skellig and Puffin Island. The site is open year‑round (closed only in poor weather) and charges a modest €5 entry fee. A well‑maintained viewing platform and a short, steep climb provide spectacular photo opportunities, especially during the golden hour.

Skellig Ring Drive

The Skellig Ring (32 km) loops from Portmagee through St Finian’s Bay, Ballinskelligs and back to the N70. Along the way you’ll encounter the Coomanaspig Pass – one of Ireland’s highest drivable points – and the Coom Wedge Tomb, a Neolithic burial chamber known locally as Diarmuid and Gráinne’s Bed.

Valentia Island

Cross the Maurice O’Neill Bridge to explore Valentia Island. Highlights include the Telegraph Field, where the first trans‑Atlantic cable was landed in 1858, the Bray Head Loop Walk with its signal tower, and Geokaun Mountain with its Fogher Cliffs. The island also hosts the Portmagee Whiskey Experience, a forthcoming visitor centre that will showcase the village’s maritime spirit.

Pubs, Restaurants and Local Flavour

• The Bridge Bar (inside The Moorings Guesthouse) – open all day, offers traditional Irish music on Fridays and Saturdays and an “Irish Night” in July‑August.
• Fisherman’s Bar – praised for generous seafood platters and friendly service.
• Driftwood Surf Café – a seaside spot in St Finian’s Bay serving locally sourced coffee and light bites.
• K’s Golden Grill – a seasonal fish‑and‑chips trailer on the harbour.

Accommodation

Portmagee provides a range of stays:

• The Moorings Guesthouse & Seafood Restaurant – six rooms above a popular pub, with sea‑views and a historic Star Wars connection.
• The Ferry Boat – family‑run B&B in the village centre.
• Portmagee Seaside Cottages – self‑catering cottages with private moorings for small boats.
• John Morgan’s House – beachfront B&B a short walk from the harbour.

Events & Festivals

• Old Year Celebration – a unique New Year procession dating back to 1727, featuring traditional music, lanterns and a symbolic “passing of the year”.
• Summer Music Sessions – many local pubs host informal sessions throughout June to August, giving visitors a chance to enjoy live traditional music.

Wildlife & Birdwatching

The cliffs and surrounding waters are a haven for seabirds. Puffins nest on the nearby Puffin Island, while the Skellig Islands host colonies of guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes. Dolphin‑watching tours depart from the harbour during the summer months, offering chances to spot common dolphins and occasional whales.

Nearby Attractions

• Ballinskelligs – a charming fishing village with a beach, historic abbey and the Coomanaspig Pass.
• Ring of Kerry – the iconic scenic drive that loops the Iveragh Peninsula, passing through Portmagee.
• Geokaun Mountain – the highest point on Valentia Island, offering sweeping coastal views.

Practical Information

Getting There

• By road – Follow the N70 Ring of Kerry to the R565; the village lies just before the turn‑off to the Skellig Ring. The bridge to Valentia Island is on the same road.
• By public transport – Bus services listed above connect Portmagee to Caherciveen, Killorglin and Waterville. The nearest railway stations are in Tralee and Killarney.
• By air – The closest airports are Kerry Airport (Killarney) and Shannon Airport; both have shuttle links to the Ring of Kerry.

Mobile Coverage

As of 2021, Three and Vodafone provide signal in Portmagee, but coverage on Valentia Island and the Ballinskelligs area is limited.

Seasonal Notes

• May‑September – Full boat schedule to Skellig Michael, longer daylight for walks, and the Kerry Cliffs are fully open.
• Winter (Oct‑Mar) – Boat trips cease; many cafés reduce hours, but the village retains its quiet charm, and the Dark Sky Reserve offers excellent stargazing.

Portmagee may be small, but its strategic location makes it the perfect base for exploring the Skellig Ring, the dramatic Kerry Cliffs and historic Valentia Island – all while enjoying fresh seafood, lively music and a warm Irish welcome.