Overview
Poulnasherry Bay sits on the western edge of the Shannon Estuary in County Clare, forming a quiet but ecologically vital stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way. The name derives from the Irish Poll na nOisrí, meaning “Oyster Hole,” a direct reference to the generations of shellfish farmers who have worked the bay’s sheltered waters. Designated a Special Area of Conservation, the bay is defined by its broad, shallow mudflats and a cluster of five small islands that shift between exposed sandbanks and rocky islets with the tide. It remains one of West Clare’s best-kept secrets for coastal walking, wildlife observation, and maritime history.
The Cammoge Ferry Disaster & Memorial
The waters here have witnessed both industry and profound tragedy. Until the late 1920s, a small ferry crossed the bay’s narrowest point at Cammoge Point, linking the rural townlands to the town of Kilrush. On the evening of 12 December 1849, that service ended in catastrophe. A boat designed to carry twelve passengers was severely overloaded with dozens of famine-stricken families hoping to reach the Kilrush workhouse for relief. Rough seas and poor loading caused the vessel to capsize just thirty yards from the western shore. Forty-one people drowned in the cold, dark water, including twelve children.
A memorial stone was erected at Cammoge Point in 2013 to record the names of those lost. The monument stands near the ruins of the original ferryman’s house, built around 1700, which was last occupied by the Conway family before the crossing closed. The site serves as a sobering reminder of the Great Famine’s human cost and the perilous nature of pre-modern coastal transport.
Birdwatching & Wildlife
The bay’s extensive mudflats create a rich feeding ground for migrating and resident birds, making it a prime stop for ornithologists and nature photographers. During spring and autumn migrations, the soft sediment draws large flocks of waders, including dunlin, bar-tailed godwit, black-tailed godwit, curlew, golden plover, and knot. Waterfowl are equally abundant; mallard, teal, Brent geese, and whooper swans are regular visitors, with occasional records of blue-winged teal and ferruginous duck.
Tips for birdwatchers:
- Visit during mid-to-low tide when birds are actively foraging on the exposed flats.
- Bring binoculars and a spotting scope; the bay’s open landscape allows for excellent long-range viewing.
- Keep a respectful distance from nesting and roosting birds, particularly on the smaller islands.
The Tidal Islands
Five islands dot the bay, each with its own character:
- Illaunaclaggin: The largest island, covered in a thick carpet of marram grass and a frequent roosting spot for Brent geese.
- Illaunmore: A low-lying, elongated gravel strand with minimal vegetation, constantly reshaped by tidal currents.
- Black Island & Illaunbeg: Small, raised sand and shingle islands that sit just a short distance apart.
- Illaunalea: The only island accessible on foot. At low to mid-tide, a firm path emerges across the sand, allowing visitors to step onto the islet.
Always consult a local tide table before attempting to walk to Illaunalea. The tide turns quickly in the Shannon Estuary, and the sand can become treacherous if you linger too long.
Oyster Farming & Local Flavour
Shellfish farming remains the bay’s living industry. Moyasta Oysters, located on the western shore, cultivates oysters in the bay’s brackish waters. The farm is one of twenty-one signature points on the Taste the Atlantic food trail, a collaborative initiative promoting coastal producers along the Wild Atlantic Way. Visitors can book a 90-minute guided tour that covers the entire process from seed to harvest, including a hands-on lesson in shucking fresh oysters straight from the water.
For a sit-down meal, Keane’s Oyster Bar & Restaurant sits a short distance from the farm, specialising in locally sourced seafood and estuary catches. The combination of a farm tour and a coastal lunch offers a practical way to experience the area’s working maritime culture.
West Clare Railway Heritage
Poulnasherry Bay was historically the western terminus of the West Clare Railway, a narrow-gauge line that opened in the 1880s to serve the growing tourism trade in Kilkee and surrounding villages. The line was famously immortalised in Percy French’s 1902 comic song “Are Ye Right There Michael?”, which lampooned the railway’s notorious timekeeping issues after French successfully sued the company for missing a performance due to a delayed train.
The old Moyasta Junction Station House survives nearby and houses a heritage museum dedicated to the line’s history. While the railway was restored in the 1990s with the return of the steam locomotive Slieve Callan, the heritage operation has been closed to the public since June 2022. The station grounds and museum buildings remain visible to visitors, and the preserved trackbed offers a quiet walk through the area’s transport history.
Practical Information
- Access & Parking: The bay is freely accessible with no entry fee. Free parking is available in a small lay-by at Cammoge Point and at the Moyasta Oysters farm.
- Getting There: The bay is located between Kilrush and Kilkee. Public transport options are limited; the nearest Bus Éireann stops are in those towns, with a short taxi ride required to reach the shore.
- Walking & Accessibility: A modest, unpaved coastal path runs from Cammoge Point toward the Blackweir Bridge, offering uninterrupted views of the estuary. The terrain is uneven and muddy in places, so sturdy footwear is essential. The site is not fully wheelchair accessible due to the natural coastal ground.
- Best Time to Visit: Spring and autumn provide the best birdwatching conditions. For island walking, plan your visit around low tide and allow extra time for the return journey.
- Facilities: There is no visitor centre or formal amenities at the bay. Toilets and refreshments are available at the Moyasta Oysters farm and in the nearby towns of Kilrush and Kilkee.
Check the tide tables before heading out, and pack a windproof layer – the estuary can be noticeably breezier than the surrounding inland roads.