Overview
The Ring of Beara is a 148 km (92 mi) circular drive that traces the rugged Atlantic edge of the Beara Peninsula. Spanning parts of both County Cork and County Kerry, the route offers a compelling alternative to the more famous Ring of Kerry. While the drive can be completed in just over two hours without stopping, the true reward lies in slowing down to explore ancient ruins, dramatic mountain passes, and quiet fishing villages. Most visitors dedicate a full day to the loop, allowing time for coastal walks, island ferries, and pub stops in historic harbour towns.
History & Heritage
Human activity on Beara stretches back to the Neolithic period, with scattered standing stones, stone rows, and Bronze Age dolmens marking the landscape. The Vikings left their linguistic imprint on place names like Longhart, while the O’Sullivan Beare clan used the peninsula as a final refuge following the Battle of Kinsale in 1601.
The 17th and 18th centuries brought further change. English forces constructed defensive Martello towers on Bere Island to monitor Bantry Bay, and the area’s rich copper deposits fuelled industrial activity that peaked in the 19th century. The Great Famine also left a tangible legacy: the Healy Pass was built in 1847 as a relief project, carving a dramatic road through the mountains to connect isolated communities. Today, the route is dotted with archaeological sites, including the tallest Ogham stone in Europe at Ballycrovane and the atmospheric ruins of Dunboy Castle.
Highlights Along the Route
Tackling the Ring clockwise from Kenmare or Glengarriff keeps the sea on your right and maximises coastal views. Key stops include:
- Glengarriff & Garnish Island: Start in Glengarriff to see one of Ireland’s finest arboretums. A short ferry ride across the harbour leads to Garnish Island, home to stunning subtropical gardens, a grand 19th-century house, and sweeping views over the water.
- Healy Pass & Caha Pass: The route climbs to 334 metres at the summit of Healy Pass, offering panoramic views over Glanmire Lake. Further along, Caha Pass features three narrow, hand-carved tunnels that once served as a vital transport link. The roads here are narrow and winding, so drive with care.
- Castletownbere & Bere Island: Castletownbere is the largest white-fish port in Ireland and a gateway to Bere Island. The island’s Martello towers, historic lighthouses, and quiet country lanes make it a favourite for heritage walks.
- Dursey Island: Reach Ireland’s only cable car crossing to Dursey Island, a car-free haven known for its ancient signal tower, coastal cliffs, and seabird colonies.
- Allihies & The Eyeries: In the village of Allihies, the Copper Mine Museum details the area’s industrial past, while the nearby Ballydonegan Beach offers a sheltered swimming spot. A short drive west brings you to the Eyeries, where brightly painted cottages cling to the coast above dramatic sea stacks.
- Gleninchaquin Park: Tucked away in the heart of the peninsula, this park features a dramatic 140-metre multi-cascade waterfall and three glacial lakes, accessible via a short, well-maintained walk.
Wildlife & Nature
The Beara Peninsula is a designated Special Protection Area, recognised for its rich biodiversity. Glengarriff Harbour supports one of Ireland’s largest harbour seal colonies, often visible resting on the rocks at low tide. The coastal cliffs and inland bogs provide critical habitat for choughs, fulmars, and golden eagles. In recent years, conservationists have also noted the presence of the native Irish Black Bee on the peninsula, a rare and genetically distinct subspecies. The Beara Way long-distance trail follows much of the coastline, offering walkers an immersive way to experience these landscapes at a slower pace.
Getting There & Practical Tips
- Starting Points: The loop can be entered from Kenmare in County Kerry or Glengarriff in County Cork. Both towns provide ample parking, accommodation, and dining options.
- Driving Conditions: The roads are narrow, often single-track in places, and feature steep gradients. Reverse gears are used frequently on mountain passes. Allow extra time, especially in winter or wet weather.
- Ferries & Cable Car: The Garnish Island ferry operates seasonally (typically April to October) with frequent departures. The Dursey Island cable car runs year-round but is limited to six passengers per trip and can close in high winds. Check timetables in advance.
- Cycling: The Ring of Beara cycle route is fully signposted and shares sections with the Wild Atlantic Way. Cyclists should be prepared for steep climbs and limited overtaking spaces on the passes.
- Walking: The Beara Way long-distance trail covers approximately 184 km and can be broken into manageable day hikes. The stretch between Adrigole and Castletownbere is particularly scenic but challenging.
- Facilities: Petrol stations are sparse between major towns. It is advisable to fill up in Kenmare, Castletownbere, or Glengarriff. Mobile phone reception can be patchy in the mountain passes and coastal villages.
The Ring of Beara rewards patience and curiosity. Planning your route around the seasonal ferry timetables and allowing time for impromptu stops at coastal pull-ins will make the journey far more rewarding than simply ticking off the distance.