Overview
St Bartholomew’s Church, widely known as Rossmackowen Church, is a small stone chapel situated on the R572 between Glengarriff and Castletownbere on the Beara Peninsula. Located in the townland of Rossmackowen (Irish: Ros Mhic Eoghain, meaning “the grove of the son of Eoghain”), the church sits within the civil parish of Killaconenagh in the Bear barony. Rossmackowen Commons is notably large, ranking as the third-largest townland in County Cork, a fact that reflects the historic land divisions and Gaelic heritage of this remote area.
While the building itself is unassuming, its position makes it a vital landmark for visitors exploring West Cork’s walking network. The chapel serves as a natural resting point for those traversing the Beara Way and acts as the primary access point for the challenging ascent of Hungry Hill. From the churchyard, the road curves to reveal sweeping views of Bantry Bay and the rugged coastline that characterises this corner of County Cork.
History & The Rossmackowen Postcard
The church’s historical footprint extends beyond local worship records, captured vividly in early 20th-century ephemera. A postcard produced circa 1918 by the Dublin-based publisher Fergus O’Connor & Co. depicts Saint Bartholomew’s Church, Rossmacowen, framed against a nearby waterfall. This image helped establish the site’s visual fame, linking the chapel to the scenic attractions of the Castletownbere area.
Fergus O’Connor was a significant figure in Irish publishing; he printed the early writings of Sean O’Casey and produced nationalist postcards. Following the 1916 Easter Rising, O’Connor was imprisoned in Lewes prison, adding a layer of political history to the materials he distributed. The postcard’s caption references a waterfall that was also highlighted in an 1898 London Times article about the Castletown Berehaven region, indicating that the natural features around Rossmackowen were drawing attention from British tourists and journalists well before the 20th century.
The name Rossmackowen reflects the area’s Gaelic roots, associated with the MacEoghain (MacEoin) family who once held lands in the barony. The church’s simple rectangular plan and modest bellcote are typical of rural Irish chapels built to serve scattered farming communities during a period of expanded church building in West Cork.
Walking: Hungry Hill and the Beara Way
For active visitors, Rossmackowen Church is best known as the gateway to some of the Beara Peninsula’s most dramatic terrain.
The Hungry Hill Scramble
The junction between the R572 and a third-class road, located just 300 metres east of the church, marks the start of the ascent to Hungry Hill. The mountain’s name comes from a grim local legend: it is said to be “hungry for bodies,” a nod to the difficult and exposed nature of the terrain.
The route involves steep ground among limestone outcrops, requiring careful route-finding and some easy scrambling. According to hillwalking guides, the ascent begins at the dip in the track after the second Beara Way marker. Walkers head straight uphill before working right towards the spine of the ridge, keeping left of larger outcrops. Halfway up, the ground steepens significantly at the foot of a high crag, where a narrow track leads uphill around it. The route continues over rock bands and terraces until the top of the ridge leads to a cairn at 667 metres, with the main summit cairn at 685 metres across the bog to the north. On a clear day, the view stretches across the Cork and Kerry mountains to Cape Clear, Fastnet Rock, and the Skellig Islands.
The descent requires concentration, following the county boundary north before cutting down through the outcrops to rejoin the dry bog road. This circuit is a seven-to-eight-hour undertaking suitable only for experienced hillwalkers; it should not be attempted in mist due to the high risk of navigation errors.
Beara Way and West Cork Walks
For a more accessible experience, the church sits on a well-marked segment of the Beara Way. The West Cork Walks operator runs a guided route from Adrigole to Castletownbere. On this 10-kilometre “easy” option, walkers trek past Park Lough and through Coomnagapple Glen before dropping down to the main road near Rossmackowen Church, where a mini-bus provides transport back to the start point.
Longer walks in the area also pass the church, with waymarkers guiding hikers through open ground and glens. The route offers encounters with the peninsula’s wild character, including references to local folklore such as the grave of Princess Beara, a Spanish princess said to have married a local chieftain and given the peninsula its name.
Practical Information
Rossmackowen Church is accessible to the public at all times. There is no admission charge, and the site remains a community landmark as well as an active place of worship.
Getting There: The church is located on the R572, the main road connecting Glengarriff and Castletownbere. From Castletownbere, travel eastward on the R572 for approximately 9 kilometres. The church is situated on the left-hand side of the road (the landward side), clearly visible from the driving lane.
Parking: A small lay-by on the R572 opposite the chapel provides free parking. Space is generally sufficient for a short stop, but drivers should use caution when entering and exiting due to traffic on the single-lane road.
Facilities: There are no visitor facilities at the church. No toilets, café, or information desk are available on site. The nearest amenities, including food and fuel, are in Castletownbere, a short drive away.
Accessibility: The church itself sits on a paved roadside with a level approach, making the building accessible for most visitors. However, the surrounding walking paths involve uneven ground, steep ascents, and scrambling sections. The Hungry Hill route is classified as hard and is best suited to experienced walkers with appropriate boots and weather gear.
Nearby Points of Interest:
- Hungry Hill: A limestone massif offering challenging scrambles and summit views.
- Park Lough: A tranquil lake along the Beara Way, ideal for a brief rest during longer walks.
- Rossmackowen Commons: The wider townland listed on Logainm.ie, providing context for the historic land divisions of the Bear barony.
Walkers planning to tackle Hungry Hill should carry an Ordnance Survey Ireland Discovery Series map (sheet 84) and check weather conditions carefully, as the exposed ridge becomes hazardous when wet or misty.