Sheeffry Hills

Overview

The Sheeffry Hills form a compact, rugged range of granite-capped peaks in the heart of County Mayo. Bounded by Glencullin Lough and Doo Lough to the west, Glenummera and Tawnyard Lough to the south, Owenmore Glen to the east and the Bunowen River to the north, the hills dominate a landscape of deep glens, quiet lakes and sparsely-populated villages such as Drummin, Carrowkennedy, Cregganbaun and Delphi. At 772 m, Barrclashcame is the highest point and the third-highest summit in Mayo, offering a rare plateau that rewards walkers with sweeping views stretching from Donegal’s coast to the cliffs of Clare.

History & Background

The Irish name for the range is Cnoic Shíofra, traditionally translated as “hills of the wraith” or “spectral hills”, a nod to the frequent low-lying mists that cling to the corries and plateaus. The anglicised form Sheeffry derives directly from this original term.

The surrounding area carries the weight of Ireland’s recent history. The village of Carrowkennedy was the site of a notable ambush during the Irish War of Independence in June 1921, and a modest memorial marks the location today. Locally, the hills are also sometimes associated with the name Sliabh an tSíocháin (“mountain of peace”), reflecting the quiet, restorative character that draws visitors away from the busier coastal routes.

Geology & Conservation

The hills are built from the Sheeffry Formation – a geological sequence of mudrock, sandstone and tuff – which gives the landscape its rugged, yet grassy, character. The whole range lies within the Mweelrea/Sheeffry/Erriff Complex Special Area of Conservation. This designation protects a variety of habitats and species, including wet heath, blanket bog, and the critically endangered European eel that migrates through Doo Lough and the connecting waterways.

Peaks and Views

• Barrclashcame – 772 m, western end of the plateau; the summit offers unobstructed views of the Atlantic coastline, the Twelve Bens, the Nephin Begs and the distinctive Ben Bulben.
• Barrclashcame Northwest (Storikeennageer) – 580 m, a gentle rise that provides a good viewpoint over the western loughs.
• Tievummera – 762 m, and Tievnabinnia – 742 m, sit along the east-west ridge and are popular intermediate summits for the 12 km Sheeffry Hills Walk.
• Tawnyard – 436 m and Tawnyrower – 510 m, give excellent outlooks over Tawnyard Lough and the surrounding valleys.

Lakes

The range cradles a string of glacial lakes. The two largest are Lugacolliwee and Lugaloughan. Smaller water bodies – Lough Awaniareen, Lough Allisheen, Lough Tarriff, Lough Brawn and Lugalough – dot the plateau, providing reflective foregrounds for the surrounding peaks. Lough Brawn, in particular, is a favourite photo-stop for walkers crossing the ridge, sitting quietly in a shallow corrie below the main summit plateau.

Walking the Sheeffry Hills

The classic Sheeffry Hills Walk is a 12 km ridge-top trek that climbs a total of 912 m and typically takes about five hours. The route starts from the south-facing grassy slopes, ascends to the plateau, and then traverses east-west, passing the unnamed “banana-shaped” lake and the corrie lake of Lough Brawn before reaching Barrclashcame.

Key highlights include:

• Panoramic vistas of Donegal, Clare, the islands of Achill and Corraun, and the distant peaks of Mweelrea and Croagh Patrick.
• The Tawnyard Forest Trail, a sign-posted loop that winds through mixed woodland and offers a quieter alternative for families or those wanting a shorter hike.
• Access from the Western Way off-road section, which allows walkers to join the ridge near Tawnyard Lough and continue eastward.

The route is detailed in Whilde & Simms’ New Irish Walk Guide – West and North. Walkers should carry a map or GPS, as sections of the plateau are un-waymarked and rely on clear beaten tracks.

Cycling the Sheeffry Pass

For cyclists, the Westport → Drummin → Sheeffry Hills → Doolough → Louisburgh → Westport loop is a 69 km adventure with 585 m of climbing. The route begins at the car park beside the Tower’s Bar on Westport Quay, follows quiet backroads and greenways, and climbs steeply through the Sheeffry Pass for a short but exhilarating ascent.

Once at the pass, riders can pause at a viewpoint over the valley and Tawnyard Lough before descending toward Doolough and the scenic lakes of the Doolough Valley. The loop finishes back in Westport via the coastal road, offering a mix of inland mountain scenery and Atlantic seascapes. The route is rated intermediate – suitable for confident riders but not recommended for beginners due to the narrow, steep pass section and sharp hairpin.

Points of Interest

• Doolough Famine Memorial – A stone cross on the road through Doolough Valley commemorates the 1847 famine tragedy when hundreds perished walking between Louisburgh and Delphi. The memorial is a short detour from the cycling loop and provides a poignant historical stop.
• Carrowkennedy Ambush Memorial – Accessible via a short detour from the eastern side of the hills, this modest monument marks the 1921 IRA ambush and serves as a reminder of the area’s role in the struggle for independence.

Maps and Guides

Digital GPX files for the cycle loop are available via the AllTrails app, and a printable PDF of the route can be downloaded from the Westport Tourism website.

Practical Information

Getting there – The hills are most easily reached from Westport (30 km north) and Louisburgh (15 km south). The main road access points are the R335 (Leenane-Westport) and the L1823, which is sign-posted for the Sheeffry Pass. Walkers often park near the Drummin lay-by before heading onto the southern slopes.

Parking – Both the Tower’s Bar car park in Westport and the Drummin lay-by are free of charge.

Walking routes – The 12 km ridge walk is un-waymarked in places but follows a clear line of beaten track across the plateau. The western descent is best avoided; instead, walkers can retrace their steps southward toward the Scots Pines and the bridge over the Glenummera River, just north of the junction of the Louisburgh-Leenane road.

Cycling – The Sheeffry Pass section is a narrow, steep road with a sharp hairpin; cyclists should be comfortable with short climbs and tight bends. The route is largely on quiet country roads, with a short off-road greenway segment near Westport. No dedicated bike-rental facilities are listed in the immediate area, so visitors should arrange a bike in Westport or Louisburgh beforehand.

Facilities – There are no permanent visitor centres on the hills themselves. The nearest amenities are in Glen Keen Farm & Visitor Centre (open in high season) and the towns of Louisburgh and Westport, where cafés, pubs and accommodation are plentiful.

Dog-friendly – Dogs are welcome on the walks and cycle routes but should be kept on a lead in the more exposed or boggy sections to protect both the animal and the delicate habitat.

Accessibility – The terrain is rugged and includes steep ascents; the routes are not suitable for wheelchair users or those with limited mobility.

Safety – Parts of the plateau are exposed; walkers should be aware of sudden changes in wind. The western corries feature scree-strewn cliffs that are less suitable for casual walkers, so the southern grassy slopes are recommended for most visitors. Mobile coverage is generally good along the main roads but can be patchy on the higher ridge.

Further resources – For up-to-date trail conditions, consult the official Ordnance Survey Ireland map viewer, the AllTrails app, or local Mayo tourism information centres. Guided walking tours are available from providers listed on the Approved Tourist Guides of Ireland website.

Start your ridge walk early to avoid afternoon cloud cover rolling in from the Atlantic, and pack extra layers – the summit plateau can feel significantly colder than the valley floor even on mild days.