Overview
The Skellig Ring is the quiet alternative to the Ring of Kerry: a loop around the southwest tip of the Iveragh Peninsula on roads too narrow for tour coaches, which is much of the appeal. Lonely Planet put it among its Top 10 Regions in the World for 2017, and it has stayed comparatively empty ever since. The full circuit, including the leg out to Valentia Island, runs to roughly 50 km; the core loop between Waterville, Ballinskelligs and Portmagee is shorter, around 18 km. The road hugs the shoreline with frequent pull-offs to watch the Atlantic hit the cliffs, and fuchsia hedges flush pink along the lanes through late summer and autumn.
If you make one stop, make it the Kerry Cliffs near Portmagee – the closest and clearest mainland view of the Skelligs you’ll get without a boat.
History & Local Character
Long before it was a scenic drive, this coast supported monastic settlements, fishing communities and terraced farms. The 12th-century ruins of Ballinskelligs Abbey sit beside a 16th-century stone castle, from a time when the coast needed both spiritual and military cover. Further south, the Telegraph Field on Valentia Island marks where the first successful transatlantic undersea cable came ashore in 1866 – a genuine turning point in global communications.
The route’s modern popularity climbed after the Skellig Islands appeared as the planet Ahch-To in Star Wars: The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. The islands themselves need a separate boat trip, but the mainland drive gives you the same Atlantic backdrop that drew the film crews.
Key Stops Along the Route
Waterville – A colourful harbour town with a long promenade and a direct view of the Skelligs. Walk Waterville Beach, call into McGill’s Brewery for a tasting, or play the links-style Waterville Golf Links.
Ballinskelligs – Home to the abbey ruins, a well-preserved castle and a sheltered Blue Flag beach. The Cill Rialaig Arts Centre shows local craft and gallery work, and a traditional country market runs on Sundays from June to August.
St. Finian’s Bay – Known for its Atlantic surf, the bay also holds the Skelligs Chocolate Factory, where you can watch chocolate being made and taste it for free (daily, 10am–5pm). The Bolus Head Loop Walk climbs to a plateau with clear sightlines to the Skelligs and nearby Puffin Island.
Coomanaspig Pass – At 248 m (797 ft), one of the highest drivable points on the ring. A large gravel car park sits beside a wind-blasted viewpoint over Valentia Island, the Dingle Peninsula and the open ocean.
Kerry Cliffs – Cliffs dropping roughly 1,000 ft to the sea. A short gravel path leads to a wooden viewing platform; entry is €5–6 and includes parking. On a clear day you can see both Skellig Michael and Little Skellig, with the Dingle headlands beyond.
Portmagee – A working fishing village and the main departure point for Skellig Michael boat tours. The harbour front is lined with seafood restaurants and the Portmagee Whiskey Experience, which runs guided tastings in a converted 19th-century building.
Valentia Island – Reached year-round by the Maurice O’Neill Memorial Bridge from Portmagee, with a seasonal ferry (April–October) from Portmagee to Knightstown as an alternative. The island packs a lot into a short drive: the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre, the Telegraph Field, the Bray Head Loop Walk and the lighthouse. It’s worth crossing for the tetrapod footprints, dating back some 350 million years, and the climb up Geokaun Mountain for 360° coastal views.
Outdoor Activities & Dark Skies
The Skellig Ring forms part of the Wild Atlantic Way cycling network. The roads are mostly single-track with almost no traffic lights, which makes for a manageable ride for a reasonably fit cyclist. Walkers have the Kerry Way long-distance trail running through the area, plus shorter routes like the Bolus Head and Bray Head loops – well-marked paths with moderate climbs.
Water sports are active at St. Finian’s Bay and Ballinskelligs Beach, where local operators run kayaking, paddle-boarding and surf lessons. Valentia Island Sea Sports hires equipment and runs guided coastal tours.
Much of the route falls within the Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve (Gold Tier). Light pollution is minimal, and on a clear night the Milky Way stretches across the sky without binoculars. Local astronomy groups occasionally run public viewing events, and the reserve’s website lists good dates for meteor showers and planetary alignments.
Practical Information
Getting there – The loop is about 1 hour 20 minutes’ drive from Killarney and under 2 hours from Dingle. Local Link Kerry runs bus services along parts of the route, and the TFI Journey Planner will map connections from larger towns. The Valentia Island ferry runs Portmagee to Knightstown from April to October; book ahead in peak summer.
Driving – These are narrow single-track roads with passing places, not a road for nervous drivers or large campervans, especially on the climb to Coomanaspig. Drive the ring clockwise from Waterville and the sea stays on your left the whole way.
Parking – There are car parks at Coomanaspig Pass, the Kerry Cliffs, Ballinskelligs Beach and the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre (free parking). The Kerry Cliffs lot fills quickly in July and August, so aim for early morning or late afternoon.
Boat tours – Trips to Skellig Michael depart from Portmagee between roughly May and early September. Demand is high, so book well in advance. Sailings are weather-dependent and rough seas mean last-minute cancellations.
Best time to visit – May through early September gives the longest days and full access to boat tours and summer attractions. Puffins nest on Little Skellig from May to late July, the best window for birdwatching. Late spring and early autumn bring quieter roads and softer light. Winter suspends the boats and shortens café hours, but the weather and empty viewpoints suit landscape photographers and stargazers.
Entry fees & accessibility – Most stops are free. The Kerry Cliffs platform charges €5–6. The main road is fully paved and fine for standard cars; the path to the Kerry Cliffs platform is uneven with a short climb, and the historic ruins sit on natural stone surfaces that can be awkward for wheelchairs or strollers.
Nearby Attractions
If you have extra time, these sit within reach of the Skellig Ring:
- Aghadoe – A historic ridge above the Killarney lakes, with an early-Christian ring fort and clear views across the water.
- Annascaul – A quiet village around a small lake, with traditional pubs and access to coastal walking trails.
- Ballybunion – A seaside resort known for its Blue Flag beach, championship golf and a well-preserved 16th-century fort.
- Blasket Islands – Reached by boat from Dingle, these remote islands offer rugged terrain, seabird colonies and the preserved legacy of Irish-language island life.
Family-Friendly Tips
- Pack layers – Coastal weather turns fast; a waterproof jacket and a warm mid-layer earn their place even in July.
- Choose manageable walks – The Bolus Head and Bray Head loops are short with clear paths, fine for older children.
- Bring snacks and water – Remote viewpoints like the Kerry Cliffs and Coomanaspig Pass have limited facilities.
- Wildlife watching – Binoculars help for puffins and gannets from the mainland; a zoom lens catches seabirds on Little Skellig without a boat trip.
- Stargazing etiquette – The Dark Sky Reserve asks visitors to use red-filtered torches and dim phone screens to protect everyone’s night vision.
Fill the tank and pick up food before you set off – services on the loop itself are thin – and carry a physical map or offline GPS, because the mobile signal drops out in several valleys between Ballinskelligs and the ferry terminal.