Overview
Skryne and Tara face each other across the Gabhra valley, and on the summit of one you can see the other plainly. That sightline is the point of a visit: from the church ruin on the Hill of Skryne, the Hill of Tara sits low on the opposite ridge, close enough that the two have been linked in local memory as the Tara-Skryne valley. The hill itself is free, open all year, and the walk up from the village takes about ten minutes. If you only have half an hour in this corner of Meath, spend it here rather than hunting for a parking space at Tara.
The village (also spelled Skreen) is roughly 10 km south-east of Navan and 35 km north-west of Dublin.
The shrine that gave the place its name
The name comes from the Irish Scrín Cholm Cille, ‘Colmcille’s shrine’. In 875, with Viking raids battering Iona, monks carried the relics of St Colmcille (St Columba) to Skryne for safekeeping, and a monastery grew up around them. It was not a quiet sanctuary for long: the site was plundered in 974, 986, 1037, 1058 and 1127, and the shrine itself was robbed in 1027 before being recovered. The relics were later moved on again, but the hill kept its reputation as sacred ground.
After the Norman invasion the land changed hands. Around 1170, Hugh de Lacy, Lord of Meath, granted the barony of Skryne to his knight Adam de Feypo, whose family held it for generations and were later made Barons Skryne.
The church tower and the castle
The ruin at the summit, known locally as The Steeple or Skryne Tower, began as an Augustinian foundation established by Francis de Feypo in 1341; most of the standing fabric, including the tall west tower, is 15th-century work. Inside are pointed medieval arches, a fragment of a baptismal font and part of a tomb slab. Above one doorway a weathered carved figure is traditionally taken to be St Colmcille. A late-medieval stone cross with a crucifixion carving stands a short way to the north-east.
Lower down the hill is Skryne Castle, a much-altered tower house with a Georgian block added around 1780 and Gothic windows in the 1830s. It is a private residence, not open for tours, though it is now rented out for stays through Airbnb and Booking.com. From the church tower you get the best view of its silhouette anyway.
The ghost of the castle
Local tradition tells of Lilith Palmerston, said to have been a young woman murdered on the estate in the 1740s and to walk the grounds on moonlit nights. It is a village story rather than documented history, and you are most likely to hear a version of it in O’Connell’s pub at the foot of the hill.
What to see and do
- The walk to the tower. A clear, well-trodden path climbs from the village car park to the summit in ten to fifteen minutes. Interpretive panels along the way sketch the early Christian and medieval history.
- The view. The summit is open on all sides; on a clear day Tara is unmistakable across the valley. Early morning and late afternoon light suit the tower and the ruins best.
- O’Connell’s pub and stables. At the base of the hill, this is the pub and stables that featured in the Guinness ‘White Christmas’ television advert, and it’s the obvious spot for a pint before or after the climb.
- A quieter Boyne Valley stop. Skryne is far less busy than Bective Abbey or Brú na Bóinne, and it slots easily into a day taking in the bigger sites.
Getting there and practicalities
Entry to the hill, the church tower and the paths is free, year-round, in daylight.
A small car park sits beside O’Connell’s pub at the foot of the hill. It fills quickly at weekends and in summer, so come early. The path up is mostly level but ends in a stretch of uneven stone steps near the ruin, which will be awkward for wheelchair users or anyone unsteady on their feet; the village street and pub are fully accessible. Wear sturdy shoes for the loose stone and old paving near the top, and keep dogs on a lead close to the ruin and the castle grounds, as the hill is popular with local walkers.
By road
- From Dublin: M3 towards Cavan, exit at Junction 6, follow the R125 then the R147; at Ross Cross turn right onto Old Ross Road for the village.
- From Navan: R147 south towards Dublin for about 11 km, turn left at Ross Cross, then follow Old Ross Road, turning left for The Green and taking the first left for the car park.
- From Trim: R154 towards Clonee/Dublin, turn left for Knightsfield Park, then join Old Ross Road and follow local signs.
The Eircode for O’Connell’s pub is C15 EY76. View the location on Google Maps.