Overview
Tory Island is the most remote inhabited island in Ireland, 11 km out into the Atlantic off the north-west coast of County Donegal, and it keeps its own rules. Irish is the everyday language, there are no cars, and until 2018 the island chose its own king. About 141 people live here, up from 119 in 2016, spread across four small settlements: West Town, East Town, Middletown and Newtown. The island is roughly 5 km long and 1 km wide, about 3.5 km² in all, low and treeless. Two features stand out: Tor Mór, the 83 m high point on the wild eastern end, and the 27 m Tory Lighthouse, its black-and-white bands marking the western tip.
If you only get the standard day-trip window on the ferry, spend it walking east to Dún Bhaloir and the cliffs, not mooching around the village. That is where the island earns its reputation.
History and mythology
Local lore ties the island to Balor of the Evil Eye, the Fomorian king whose name survives in the Lebor Gabála Érenn and, more usefully for a visitor, in Dún Bhaloir at the eastern end. People were here long before the legends: Neolithic settlement, Bronze-Age cairns, and a 6th-century monastery founded by St Colmcille, whose round tower still stands. Tory has come through Viking raids, an English plundering in 1595, the 1608 Siege of Tory during O’Doherty’s Rebellion, and, offshore, the 1798 Battle of Tory Island and the 1914 sinking of HMS Audacious.
The lighthouse was first lit on 1 August 1832, designed by George Halpin for the Commissioners of Irish Lights after Sligo merchants petitioned for it. It moved from oil lamps to a Fresnel lens, then coal-gas and paraffin, before going electric in 1972 and automatic in 1990, which ended the resident-keeper era.
Tory’s best-known tradition is its king (Rí Thoraí), chosen by consensus rather than birth, a role closer to cultural ambassador than ruler. The painter Patsy Dan Rodgers held it from the 1990s until his death in October 2018. It has been vacant since; the island has said it will consider applications for a new king or queen, but none has been confirmed.
The painters
For a place this size, Tory has an unlikely export: its own school of painters. From the 1950s the English artist Derek Hill (1916–2000) painted here and encouraged local men, fishermen rather than trained artists, to pick up a brush. Their flat-perspective island scenes now hang in galleries well beyond Donegal, and Gailearaí Dixon in West Town shows the current generation’s work. It is worth twenty minutes.
What to see and do
- Dún Bhaloir (Balor’s Fort) – On the eastern peninsula, set behind a narrow isthmus and backed by 90 m sea cliffs, with the ridge An Eochair running out beside it. This, and the walk to reach it, is the single best thing on the island. See the Balor’s Fort and An Eochair Mhór pages for routes. At the fort, Leac na Leannán – the Wishing Stone – juts out over a 100 m drop to the Atlantic; the custom is to throw three stones onto it and make a wish.
- Tor Mór – A marked trail from near Port a Dúin climbs to the 83 m summit, with sightlines toward Slieve League on a clear day.
- An Cloigtheach (round tower) – 13 m of sea-rolled granite blocks, the only surviving round tower in County Donegal. Colmcille’s Bell (Clog Cholm Cille) hung here until the late 18th century.
- The Tau Cross – At the pier entrance in West Town, a T-shaped cross 1.9 m high and 1.1 m wide, cut from a single slab of mica-slate. It is one of only two in Ireland; the other is at Killinaboy in Co. Clare.
- The torpedo – Midway between East Town and West Town stands a torpedo that washed ashore during the Second World War, defused and set up as a monument.
- Tory Lighthouse – The stone tower is not routinely open, though guided access is sometimes arranged during the summer festival. The walk out along the western tip is the real draw.
- Boat trips and diving – Charter boats leave West Town harbour for the cliffs, the seabird colonies and resident seals. The clear water also draws divers, including to the wreck of HMS Wasp at about 15 m.
Getting there
- Ferry – The main ferry runs year-round from Magheroarty Pier near Falcarragh, a crossing of about 45 minutes; a second service sometimes runs from Bunbeg. Typical sailings leave Magheroarty at 9am and 2.30pm, returning from Tory at 10am and 3.30pm, so the classic day trip gives you either a short morning or a fuller afternoon. Return fares at the time of writing: adult €28, student with card €17, child 14–18 €15, child 6–13 €10; bikes €5, or €10 for an e-bike; single tickets are half the return price. The service is tidal, so check the operator’s app before you set out.
- Helicopter – From November to March, when the sea is at its worst, a four-seater helicopter runs between Falcarragh and Tory every other Thursday.
- Parking – Leave the car at Magheroarty for the crossing; formal parking there isn’t guaranteed, so check locally.
On the island
There are no cars. Walking is how you get around, and bicycles are allowed on the single narrow lane if used with care. West Town centre is level and accessible, but the lighthouse, Balor’s Fort and the cliff paths are rough and not suitable for wheelchairs.
Accommodation is limited to a hotel and a handful of B&Bs, so book several months ahead for summer. The island runs on three diesel generators that burn roughly 500 litres of fuel a day; a single shop in West Town covers basic groceries and post-office services. A local clinic handles first aid, with the nearest hospital in Letterkenny. Atlantic weather turns fast, so pack sturdy shoes and waterproofs whatever the forecast. Ground-nesting birds are protected, which is why dogs are discouraged, and it is good manners to ask before photographing residents or private property.
The summer festival
The island’s summer festival runs through July and August, with traditional music sessions, Irish-language workshops and local art. Exact dates shift year to year, so check the island website or the community centre before planning around it.
Nearby and day-trip ideas
Arranmore, the larger island to the south, has its own lighthouse and scenic trail and a separate ferry from Burtonport, which makes an island-hopping trip through the Donegal Gaeltacht straightforward if the weather holds.
Build slack into any plan. The crossing is at the mercy of the Atlantic swell, and more than one day-tripper has ended up staying the night. On Tory, that is rarely the worst outcome.