Overview
The River Erriff drops about four metres over a run of pale rock steps here, just north of the Galway-Mayo border, before flowing on into Killary Harbour. Ben Gorm and the Devil’s Mother rise on either side. It is a small waterfall by Irish standards, and on a dry summer day it can be modest, but it is a spate river, so a day or two after heavy rain it turns into a real torrent. The site is a Wild Atlantic Way Signature Point and a map board marks the start of the Western Way long-distance trail.
This is a half-hour stop rather than a day out. The real reason to time it well is water level, which is covered under the tips below.
The name
The Irish name Eas Liath means ‘grey waterfall’, a plain reference to the weathered rock along the cascade. Older guidebooks and signage sometimes spell it Aashleagh, a variant that still turns up locally.
The river and its wildlife
The Erriff is a classic spate river, formed inland where the Owenree and Owenmore meet, and its flow swings sharply with the weather. It has long held a working fishery: trout in the pools and riffles below the falls, and one of Connemara’s more reliable salmon runs in the upper reaches between June and September. The river corridor also supports red-breasted mergansers and kingfishers along the banks, otters on quieter days, and European eel, whose migratory cycle runs through these pools and shallows.
Film and television
The falls turn up in a fight scene in Jim Sheridan’s The Field, with Richard Harris, Tom Berenger and Sean Bean. Years later David Attenborough came here with a BBC crew to film a segment on the European eel, narrating its migration from above the cascade.
Walking and the Western Way
The Western Way starts right at the falls. Its opening 12 km section runs through the Erriff Valley with views over Killary Harbour, the only fjord on the Irish coast, passing beneath the Devil’s Mother and Ben Gorm before reaching the Sheeffry Pass. Watch for Tawnyard Lough along the way, its shoreline dotted with small islands, one of them a crannog, the kind of artificial lake dwelling Gaelic settlers used over thousands of years. Near the pass, Saint Dabeoc’s Heath flowers in purple and gold from May to October. It is a fair walk for reasonably fit hikers rather than a stroll.
Practical information
Parking and road safety
Two small lay-bys flank the R335 just past the bridge, holding roughly 40 vehicles between them. They sit directly on a sharp, sweeping bend, and there have been several near misses over the years. When you cross to the bridge or viewing area, keep tight to the edge of the road, watch for oncoming traffic and make eye contact with drivers where you can.
Access and trails
The main view is from the bridge spanning the river just upstream of the falls. A short, flat trail leads down to the base of the cascade. It is unpaved and turns muddy and slippery after rain, so sturdy boots are sensible. There is no wheelchair-accessible route, and the unpaved ground means extra care with young children or pets.
Getting there and nearby
By car, take the N59 west from Galway to Leenane, then turn north onto the R335. The falls are about 70 km from Galway city and 40 km from Clifden. Public transport is thin: Bus Éireann’s Galway-Clifden route stops in Leenane, but you would need to walk or get a lift the rest of the way.
Leenane, 4 km south, is the obvious base for food, with a few cafés and pubs. For a longer day, drive the Doolough Valley, visit Kylemore Abbey or take a boat tour on Killary Harbour.
Tips
- When to go: Autumn and winter bring the heaviest rain and the biggest flow. Spring and summer run calmer, with the chance of salmon in the June–September run.
- Photography: Come just after a shower. When the sun breaks through, it catches the mist and lights the hillsides behind.
- Bring: Waterproof boots, a rain jacket and a picnic.
- Dogs: Best left at home given the road crossing and the slippery rocks near the base.
- Time needed: 30 minutes to an hour for the bridge, the short trail and the valley views.