Overview
Glennacally (Irish: Gleann na Caillí, literally “the hag’s valley”) sits in the barony of Murrisk, County Mayo, between Erriff Bridge and Glennacally Bridge on the N59. Spanning 5,247 acres (21.3 km²), it is the third‑largest townland in Mayo and a landscape of winding streams, steep valleys and a chain of peaks that form part of the Devilsmother, Maumtrasna and Partry Mountains. The area is famed for the “Hag’s Glen” – a name that harks back to Irish myth where the Cailleach, a hag or ancient goddess, was believed to herald winter. Today the name adds a touch of mystery to a hill‑walk that is both physically rewarding and steeped in local history.
History & Background
The word cailleach can mean a nun, a veiled figure or simply an old woman, and many Irish valleys earned the “Hag’s” prefix to warn children away from remote, potentially dangerous terrain. In the 19th century the townland appeared in various forms – Glanacolla, Glen‑na‑Callie, Glanicalle – before settling on the modern spelling.
The surrounding mountains were once called the Formnamore Mountains (from formna mór, “great shoulder”). The name fell out of use by the early 20th century and the peaks are now known individually as Benwee (Binn Bhuí, 682 m), the trigonometric pillar on the Maumtrasna Plateau (673 m), Glenagleragh Hill (621 m), Gowlan (≈ 620 m), Binn Garbh (645 m) and the iconic Devilsmother (≈ 600 m).
Early‑19th‑century civil engineer Alexander Nimmo designed and built the three stone bridges that still carry the N59 across the Erriff, Gowlan and Glennacally rivers. These bridges are fine examples of Nimmo’s robust masonry work and remain in everyday use.
A quirky cultural footnote is Keane’s Field, opposite an old schoolhouse near Gowlan Bridge. The field was used in the filming of the Richard Harris movie adaptation of John B. Keane’s play; a stone plaque still bears the inscription “Scoil Naisiunta‑Oirim‑A.D. 1929”.
What to See & Do
The 17‑km Hill‑Walk Circuit
The most celebrated activity in Glennacally is the circular hill‑walk that starts at Glennacally Bridge (grid reference L 93482 65508). The route is listed on MountainViews (track 2060) and covers 17.3 km with a total ascent of 1,085 m and descent of 1,126 m. The creator’s estimate for a fit party is just under nine hours, though many walkers take longer to enjoy the scenery and historic sites.
| Feature | Detail |
|---|---|
| Length | 17.3 km |
| Total Ascent | 1,085 m |
| Total Descent | 1,126 m |
| Estimated Time | 8 h 50 min (average pace) |
| Highest Point | Maumtrasna Plateau (673 m) |
| Key Peaks | Devilsmother, Binn Garbh, Knocklaur, Maumtrasna |
The walk proceeds as follows:
- Park at the wide gate east of Glennacally Bridge on the N59 and cross the gate to the east bank of the Glennacally River.
- Follow the river south for about 1.5 km; the Glenfree River joins from the left.
- Cross the confluence and head southeast toward the steep spur of Maumtrasna. The final 200 m of ascent to the plateau is a 45° slope.
- After a brief rocky scramble, the terrain flattens for a kilometre across the Maumtrasna plateau to the summit.
- From the summit, walk south‑west along a county‑border fence, then continue west to the summit of Glennagleragh, and on to Knocklaur.
- Descend to the col at the head of the Glennacally River, then climb gently toward the Devil’s Mother ridge.
- Follow the ridge, taking in the Devil’s Mother North Top and the rocky prominence at 380 m before a steep, slippery descent to a grassy ramp.
- The final descent weaves through a small valley, crosses a fence, and rejoins an old bog road that leads back to the N59.
The route offers dramatic vistas of Killary Harbour (when the weather clears), the rugged Maumtrasna ridge, and the deep hollows of Luga Kippen, Luga Gowlan and Luga Buidhe. The “Devil’s Mother” summit, a distinctive horseshoe‑shaped ridge, is a highlight for photographers.
Alternative Shorter Route – Devilsmother Out‑and‑Back
For walkers seeking a more time‑efficient option, the Devilsmother from Glennacally trail (catalogued on Hiiker) provides a 10.8 km out‑and‑back route. It climbs directly to the Devilsmother ridge, gaining 752 m of elevation and can be completed in roughly 3 h 25 min for a fit party. The trail is graded Difficult and follows well‑marked stone steps for much of the ascent. It is an excellent choice when daylight is limited or when you prefer a single‑day summit experience without the full circuit.
Key details: 10.8 km length, 752 m ascent, estimated time 3 h 25 min, difficulty Difficult. The route starts from the same parking gate at Glennacally Bridge and rejoins the main circuit at the Devilsmother ridge.
Historic Bridges & Cultural Sites
- Erriff Bridge, Gowlan Bridge, Glennacally Bridge – all designed by Alexander Nimmo, showcasing early 19th‑century stone masonry.
- Keane’s Field – the filming location of the John B. Keane play adaptation, marked by a historic school plaque.
- Old Schoolhouse – a reminder of rural education in early 20th‑century Mayo.
Natural Features
- Glens: Glenfree (Heather Glen) and Glennaglearagh (Cleric’s Glen) feed the river system.
- Hollows: Luga Kippen, Luga Gowlan and Luga Buidhe add character to the valley floor.
- Flora: Heather, gorse and native birch dominate the higher slopes, while the riverbanks host alder and willow.
Practical Information
Glennacally is accessed via the N59, the main road linking Westport and Leenane. Parking is available at the gate east of Glennacally Bridge; the space is free but can fill quickly in summer, so arriving early is advisable. The circuit is best attempted on a dry, calm day – the mountain terrain can become treacherous when wet, with peat‑laden slopes turning slick. The MountainViews description notes that in mid‑winter the ground was “very sodden” and that walking poles are recommended for the steeper descents.
Navigation is straightforward on the main sections, but the ridge walk after the Devil’s Mother can be confusing; the fence line serves as a useful guide, though occasional dips require careful attention. A basic map (Ordnance Survey Ireland) and a GPS device are recommended. The route is not wheelchair‑accessible and involves significant elevation gain, so it is suited to experienced hill‑walkers.
No formal admission fee is required; the land is open access under Irish law. There are no permanent facilities along the route, so carry sufficient water, food and a first‑aid kit. Mobile reception is patchy in the higher sections, so inform someone of your plans before setting off.
Dog policy – Dogs are permitted on the open‑access land but must be kept under control around livestock and on the historic bridges. (Please verify any seasonal restrictions.)
Environmental stewardship – Mayo’s tourism board encourages walkers to follow the county’s seven principles for protecting natural habitats: stay on marked paths, take litter home, avoid disturbing wildlife, keep dogs under control, respect private property, use biodegradable products, and stay informed about any local conservation notices.
For further details on the track, see the MountainViews page: https://mountainviews.ie/track/2060/. The official placename entry on Logainm.ie provides the Irish name and historical references: http://www.logainm.ie/en/37153.
Wildlife & Seasonal Highlights
The upland heath supports a range of birds such as red grouse, skylark and, in the summer months, peregrine falcons that hunt over the open moorland. Early spring brings a carpet of purple heather and blooming gorse, while autumn colours turn the lower slopes to gold and amber. Walkers often spot mountain hares and, on quieter days, the occasional red deer crossing the valleys.
Nearby Attractions & Day Trips
- Aasleagh Falls – a short 10‑km detour north‑west leads to the dramatic Aasleagh waterfall, a popular spot for a picnic and photo‑op. (Aasleagh Falls)
- Ballycroy (Wild Nephin) National Park – the park’s visitor centre at Ballycroy Village is about 30 km south‑west and offers additional walking trails, a dark‑sky experience and a chance to learn about the region’s peatland ecology. (Ballycroy National Park)
- Killary Harbour – already visible from the ridge, a longer drive to the harbour provides a chance to take a boat tour or explore the nearby villages of Leenaun and Leenane.
- Great Western Greenway – the 42‑km off‑road cycling and walking route runs through Westport and Newport; it can be combined with a shorter section for a low‑impact alternative to the hill‑walk.
- Doolough Valley Famine Memorial – a short drive eastwards brings you to the Doolough Tragedy memorial (1849), a poignant reminder of the Great Famine.
Access & Transport
The most convenient way to reach Glennacally is by car; the N59 offers clear signage for the parking gate east of the bridge. Public transport options are limited – the nearest bus stop is at the Westport‑Leenane route in the village of Glenamoy, about 5 km away. If you are relying on public transport, arrange a taxi from the stop or consider a local hire car. The nearest town with amenities (café, toilet, fuel) is Westport, 20 km north.
Safety & Tips
- Weather: Mayo’s weather changes rapidly. Check the Met Éireann forecast before you set out and be prepared for rain, wind and reduced visibility.
- Gear: Sturdy waterproof boots, gaiters, a wind‑proof jacket and trekking poles are strongly recommended. Carry a map, compass and a fully charged GPS device.
- Navigation: While most of the route follows the river and ridge, the section after Devil’s Mother relies on a low stone fence for guidance; keep an eye on the fence line and use a map to confirm your bearings.
- Emergency: Mobile signal is unreliable on the plateau. In an emergency, the nearest rescue base is the Mayo Mountain Rescue Service in Westport.
- Dog policy: Dogs are permitted on the open‑access land but must be kept under control around livestock and on the historic bridges. (Please verify any seasonal restrictions.)
Glennacally offers a rare blend of myth, history and raw mountain scenery. Whether you are tracing the steps of the ancient Cailleach, admiring Nimmo’s stone bridges, or conquering the Devil’s Mother ridge, the circuit promises an unforgettable slice of Mayo’s wild heart.