An Eochair Mhór – The Big Key on Tory Island | Donegal

Overview

An Eochair Mhór (Irish for “the Big Key”) crowns the eastern edge of Tory Island, a remote Gaelic‑speaking outpost off the north‑west coast of County Donegal. The formation is a long, steep‑sided rocky spur that terminates in a massive slab of stone called An Tor Mór. From a distance the whole spur resembles a giant key thrust into the Atlantic, a visual that has given the site its English nickname, The Big Key.

The cliff is part of a rugged coastline sculpted by relentless Atlantic winds, salty spray and centuries of erosion. Its most striking features are the jagged rock pinnacles that locals call the “soldiers of Balor” (Saighdiúirí Bhaloir) – a reference to the mythic giant Balor of the Evil Eye, whose legendary fort once guarded the island’s eastern side. The combination of natural drama and mythic resonance makes An Eochair Mhór one of Tory Island’s must‑see highlights.

History & Mythology

While the rock itself is a product of geological forces, its name and reputation are rooted in Irish folklore. According to tradition, Balor – a fearsome giant with a deadly eye – ruled the island from a fort known as Dún Bhaloir (see Balor’s Fort). The “soldiers of Balor” that line the cliff are imagined as his stone‑bound guards, forever watching the sea.

Beyond the Balor legend, the island holds a wealth of historic sites:

An Cloigtheach (The Bell Tower) – a 6th‑ or 7th‑century round tower with a 16 m circumference, once part of a monastic settlement founded by St Colmcille.
Tau Cross – a 12th‑century t‑shaped stone cross, 1.9 m high and 1.1 m wide, standing on a hill overlooking the harbour.
Balor’s Fort – an Iron‑Age earthwork linked to the Balor myth.
Moirsheisear (Grave of the Seven) – the burial site of six men and a woman who drowned off the north‑west coast.
WWI Torpedo – a wartime torpedo recovered and erected near the harbour after being defused.
Wishing Stone (Leac na Leannán) – a flat‑topped rock 100 m above the Atlantic; legend says a wish is granted to anyone who steps on it or throws three stones onto it.
Tory Island Lighthouse – built 1828‑1832 to a design by George Halpin; automated in 1990 and now a popular viewpoint.

The island’s more recent history includes a 1608 siege during O’Doherty’s Rebellion, the destruction of Colmcille’s monastery by English forces, and the loss of a battleship torpedo in 1914. Today, the community still chooses a “king” (Rí Thoraí) by consensus; the most recent king was the painter Patsy Dan Rodgers, who passed away in 2018.

What to See & Do

The Key‑shaped Spur – Walk the coastal path to the base of the spur and admire the natural key silhouette, especially striking at sunrise.
Soldiers of Balor – Jagged pinnacles perfect for dramatic photography when sea spray catches the light.
An Tor Mór – The sea‑stack that caps the spur, visible from several angles.
Wishing Stone – A short walk eastward brings you to this flat rock; locals say a whispered wish rides the wind.
Birdwatching – Colonies of puffins, razorbills, guillemots and kittiwakes nest on the cliffs; the island is a key corncrake sanctuary (breeding June‑July) and a Special Protection Area for several seabird species.
Guided Bird‑watching Walks – Regular summer walks depart from the harbour; bookings via the community centre.
Sea‑angling Charters – Michael “Sabba” Curran runs Tory Sea Angling Charters from a base near An Eochair Mhór. The 38‑ft boat The Cricket takes up to 12 guests on 20‑mile offshore trips for cod, ling, hake, pollock, conger eel and mackerel.
Diving – The wreck of HMS Wasp lies 15 m below the surface off the island’s western side; a dive centre at the Harbour View Hotel offers guided dives.
Art Gallery – Dixon’s small gallery showcases naïve art created by local artists and former king Patsy Dan.
Céilí Evenings – Traditional music sessions are held regularly in the lounge of the Harbour View Hotel.
Tory Island Loop Walk – A 4 km marked trail starting in West Town, looping the island’s edge and highlighting historic sites. A map board at the pier shows the route.
Photography tip – The key silhouette is most dramatic at sunrise or late‑afternoon when the low sun lights the “soldiers” from the west.

Flora & Fauna

Tory Island is a haven for wildlife. In addition to the seabird colonies, the island supports a variety of wildflowers that carpet the fields in summer, and it is one of the few places in Ireland where the endangered corncrake still breeds (typically ten calling males are recorded in recent surveys). Rare vagrant birds from the Nearctic occasionally stop over during migration, making the island a rewarding spot for keen birders.

Getting There & Transport

Ferry – The passenger‑only Tory Ferry runs year‑round (weather permitting) between Magheroarty Pier and Tory Island. Typical daily sailings are:
- Depart Magheroarty 09:00 → Arrive Tory 09:45
- Depart Magheroarty 14:30 → Arrive Tory 15:15
- Return from Tory 10:00 → Arrive Magheroarty 10:45
- Return from Tory 15:30 → Arrive Magheroarty 16:15
- Prices (2026): Adult €28, Student €17, Bike €5 (standard) / €10 (electric). Tickets can be bought online at toryferry.com or via the free Tory Ferry App. Call +353 87 188 3710 for enquiries.
Tide‑dependent schedule – Magheroarty Pier is tidal; sailings may be delayed or cancelled, so check the app before you travel.
Winter helicopter service – From November to March a small 4‑seat helicopter runs every other Thursday from Falcarragh to Tory, providing an alternative when sea conditions are unsafe.
Parking – A small free car park is available at Magheroarty Pier. It can fill quickly in summer, so arrive early.
On‑Island Travel – No cars are permitted on the island. Most attractions are reachable on foot via well‑marked, uneven coastal paths. The island is compact; a 4 km loop walk covers the main sites.
Mobile coverage – Signal is patchy, especially on the western side. Download offline maps before you travel.

Practical Information

Admission	Price
General public	Free

Opening Hours	Details
Year‑round	Open all day, weather permitting

Safety – No railings along the cliff edge. Keep a safe distance, especially in wind.
Facilities – A small shop, a handful of cafés and pubs (e.g., An Cluib, Harbour View Hotel). Cash is advisable; card machines can be intermittent.
Accommodation – The Harbour View Hotel (12 en‑suite rooms) is the main hotel; self‑catering cottages are also available. Book well in advance during summer.
Accessibility – Uneven ground, steep drops and exposed edges make the site unsuitable for wheelchair users or those with limited mobility.
Dog policy – [Unresolved – confirm if dogs are allowed on the coastal path].
Best Time to Visit – Clear, calm days provide the most spectacular views and safe footing. Early morning or late afternoon light enhances the key silhouette.

Seasonal Highlights & Events

May‑September – Most reliable weather, longest daylight, full seabird activity and a series of summer festivals featuring local musicians and céilí evenings in the Harbour View Hotel.
Winter – Ferry schedule is reduced; strong winds make the path challenging. The occasional helicopter service offers a safe alternative for those who still wish to visit.

Nearby Attractions

Tory Island Lighthouse – A short walk west from the Big Key, offering panoramic sea views.
Balor’s Fort – The ancient earthwork associated with the Balor legend, located a kilometre inland.
Tau Cross – Early‑Christian stone cross perched on a hill overlooking the harbour.
Arranmore Island – A larger neighbour reachable by a separate ferry; known for its own lighthouse and scenic trail (Arranmore Island).
Dixon’s Art Gallery – Displays naïve art by local artists, including works by former king Patsy Dan.
Moorish Sea‑Angling Charters – Offers fishing trips and island tours from a base near An Eochair Mhór.