Sean’s Bar, on the west bank of the Shannon a minute from the castle, is dated to around 900 AD and holds the Guinness World Record as Ireland’s oldest pub. Inside it looks the part: wattle-and-wicker walls, a peat fire, low ceilings, sawdust on the floor to soak up spilt Guinness, and a few old coins found in the walls during renovations. If you have one hour in Athlone, spend it here.
The town straddles the river at the historic ford of Luan, on the border of County Westmeath and County Roscommon – a strategic Shannon crossing fought over for a thousand years, and now the hub of the Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands tourism region. It is about 125 km from Dublin (1 hour 20 minutes by road on the M6) and just over an hour from Galway.
One thing to know before you plan: Athlone Castle, the town’s headline attraction, is closed for redevelopment, with reopening expected in autumn 2026. The date is subject to change, so check the official site before you travel.
The castle and the sieges
The Shannon crossing has carried armies for over a millennium. In 1129 the High King Tairrdelbach Ua Conchobair fortified the bridge; the Normans followed with a motte-and-bailey, and the twelve-sided stone keep that still dominates the western bank was built in 1210 for Justiciar John de Gray.
The town’s military story peaks in the 17th century, through the Confederate Wars, the Cromwellian conquest and the Williamite War. The sieges of 1690 and 1691 were brutal – one survivor of the 1691 defence called it ‘hell on earth’. Sergeant Custume and a small band of volunteers held the western bridge against overwhelming fire, then dismantled it themselves to stop the crossing; the barracks across the river still carries his name. When the visitor centre reopens, its draw is the 360° siege film and the battlement walks over the Shannon rather than the bare stone of the keep.
On the water
The river is the reason to linger. Viking Tours run two routes from the quayside beside the castle: south to the early-monastic ruins of Clonmacnoise, and north onto the open water of Lough Ree. Kayaks and paddleboards are available for hire from the town quay, anglers work the banks for brown trout and pike, and Coosan Point has a marked swimming area in summer.
The greenway to Mullingar
The Old Rail Trail Greenway is the best of the land-based options: a 40 km traffic-free path along a disused railway line east to Mullingar, passing restored stations, the Portlick Millennium Forest and quiet woodland. It is fully paved and flat, so it suits cyclists, runners and pushchairs alike, and a modern pedestrian and cycle bridge links it across the Shannon to the town centre.
Galleries, churches and a folk museum
The Luan Gallery sits directly across from the castle in a converted 19th-century building, its floor-to-ceiling windows framing the river; it shows regional contemporary art and runs workshops. A short walk away, the twin-towered Church of Saints Peter and Paul holds stained glass from the Harry Clarke Studios – worth stepping inside for. South of town, the Derryglad Folk & Heritage Museum keeps over 8,500 objects of rural and domestic Irish life from the 1800s to the mid-20th century.
With children
The Dún na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park has woodland walks, a nature trail and picnic space. Baysports, on the lake, runs one of Ireland’s larger inflatable water parks alongside kayaking and paddle-boarding, and is the safe bet for a wet afternoon with restless kids.
Eating, and bringing the dog
Thyme holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its seasonal Midlands cooking, and The Fatted Calf is the other name locals send you to. Athlone is an easy town to bring a dog – the riverside promenade and parkland are made for it, and several cafés on and around Church Street have outdoor seating where dogs are welcome, though it’s worth checking the indoor policy before you settle in.
Getting there and parking
Athlone railway station is a 10-minute walk from the centre, with direct trains from Dublin Heuston and Galway. By road the M6 connects both cities; private coaches including Citylink run to Dublin, Galway, Limerick and Belfast, and local TFI buses link the station, Golden Island Shopping Centre and the town. For the car, there’s on-street pay-and-display near the centre, several car parks within easy reach, and a coach drop-off bay beside the castle site. The Tourist Information Centre on the castle grounds is the place for walking-tour bookings.
Nearby
Athlone’s central position makes it a good base for the Midlands:
- Hill of Uisneach: the ancient ceremonial site traditionally held to be the centre of Ireland.
- Fore: a well-preserved 12th-century abbey and the ‘Seven Wonders of Fore’.
- Kilbeggan Distillery: Ireland’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery, with guided tours and tastings.
- Belvedere House: a Georgian estate with formal gardens and the folly known as the Jealous Wall.
With the castle shut until autumn 2026, the visit that works now is a half-day on foot: the greenway bridge and a stretch of the trail in the morning, Sean’s Bar and the riverside in the afternoon, and a boat out to Clonmacnoise if the weather holds.