Overview
Mullingar’s Irish name, An Muileann gCearr, means ‘the left-handed mill’ – a mill that, in the legend of St Colmán, is said to have turned the wrong way. It is the county town of Westmeath and the third-largest town in the Irish midlands, with a population of 22,667 at the 2022 census. The town sits on the River Brosna between Lough Owel and Lough Ennell, with Lough Derravaragh a little to the north, and it works best as a base: the real draws are on its edges – the lakes, the greenways and Belvedere House – rather than on the main street, which is a busy working shopping town more than a tourist set-piece.
History
The settlement grew around a fording point on the Brosna and was first called Maelblatha. Medieval records note a motte-and-bailey castle, a tower house (Mullingar Castle) and two religious houses: the Augustinian Priory of St Mary (1227) and a Dominican friary (1237). When the Counties of Meath and Westmeath Act passed in 1543, Mullingar became the shire town of the new county, and later a garrison town at Wellington (later Columb Barracks).
The Cathedral of Christ the King, built in the 1930s over an earlier 19th-century cathedral, was dedicated on 1 September 1939 – the day the Second World War began. The town’s market ran for centuries until the cattle mart closed in 2003, giving way to the Market Point development.
What to see and do
Heritage and culture
- Cathedral of Christ the King – the twin-towered landmark in the centre of town, with stained glass and mosaics inside; free to enter. Its Ecclesiastical Museum holds some genuine curiosities, including a ring said to have belonged to Marie Antoinette and vestments worn by St Oliver Plunkett; viewing is by appointment only.
- Greville Arms Hotel – a historic hotel that appears in James Joyce’s Ulysses, and home to a collection of Niall Horan memorabilia. Free to view; restaurant charges apply.
- Mullingar Pewter – Ireland’s only pewter factory; self-guided tours by arrangement, free to enter.
- Mullingar Arts Centre – theatre, gallery and classes; wheelchair-accessible with a lift (give notice). Entry varies by event.
Gardens and parks
- Belvedere House and Gardens – an 18th-century house on the east shore of Lough Ennell, best known for the Jealous Wall, a huge mock-Gothic folly built to block the view of a feuding brother’s home. Admission at the time of writing is about €8 for adults and €4 for children, with student, senior and family rates; parking is free and there are several play areas for children. Open all year.
- Mullingar Town Park – a Green Flag park with playgrounds, a swimming pool and an ornamental pond. Free.
- Tudenham Park – on the shore of Lough Ennell, with walking trails, picnic areas and water-sports access. Free.
Greenways and cycling
- Royal Canal Greenway – a level towpath of about 130 km running through Mullingar Harbour, good for walking, running or cycling. Free.
- Old Rail Trail Greenway – a 43 km off-road path to Athlone along the former Midland Great Western Railway. Free.
- National Famine Way – the long-distance commemorative walking route also passes through Mullingar.
- Mullingar Golf Club (Belvedere) – a parkland course designed by James Braid; hosts the annual Mullingar Scratch Cup. Pay-and-play (check the club).
Lakes and water sports
- Lough Owel – a deep, spring-fed lake for sailing, angling (brown trout and pike) and birdwatching; it feeds the Royal Canal.
- Lough Ennell – shallow and about 6 km long, with the Jonathan Swift Park at Lilliput and launch points for kayaking and paddle-boarding; jet-skis are banned.
- Lough Derravaragh – tied to the legend of the Children of Lir, with quieter water for trout fishing.
Music
Mullingar has produced more than its share of well-known musicians. Joe Dolan, the showband singer whose statue stands in the town, was born and raised here; more recently it has given us Niall Horan of One Direction and Bressie of The Blizzards. For live music, try The Stables, the Arts Centre, or trad-leaning pubs like the Druid’s Chair and the Ulysses bar in the Greville Arms.
Nearby
- Abbey Blooms Botanical Gardens – a 10-acre garden with native planting and a historic walled garden.
- Lilliput Adventure Centre – on Lough Ennell, with water sports, a playground and the Jonathan Swift heritage trail.
- Hill of Uisneach – the mythic ‘centre of Ireland’, about 14 km west of town; two-hour guided tours run on a suggested donation of around €10, with ancient monuments and long views from the ridge.
Practical information
Getting here
- Road – the N4 (Dublin–Sligo) runs east of town; the N52 links to Athlone, Kells and Dundalk. Dublin is about an hour away (roughly 80 km).
- Bus – Bus Éireann connects Mullingar to Dublin, Athlone, Sligo, Cavan, Tullamore and Ballina; the Dublin Expressway (22/23) runs several times daily from Busáras (about 90 minutes).
- Rail – Mullingar station has commuter services to Dublin and InterCity trains to Sligo.
- Air – Dublin (about 1 hour) and Ireland West/Knock (about 2 hours 30 minutes) are the nearest airports.
Cycling and walking
- Bike hire – Mullingar Bike Hire at the Royal Canal Harbour has hybrids, e-bikes, tandems and child seats, with free parking.
- Cycle routes – three marked loops (30, 38 and 49 km) start at the railway station and take in Lough Owel, Lough Ennell and the Royal Canal.
- Walking – the Westmeath Way (32 km) and stages of the Royal Canal Way start or finish in Mullingar.
Accommodation
- Greville Arms Hotel – town-centre hotel in the thick of things (tel +353 44 934 8563).
- Mullingar Park Hotel – 4-star with pool, sauna and gym.
- Newbury Hotel – family-run, beside the railway station, with free parking.
- Marlinstown Court B&B – a kilometre out, child-friendly and handy for Belvedere House.
Visitor services
The Tourist Information Centre in Market Square has maps, event listings and booking help, and is a good first stop for planning greenway routes.
Accessibility
The Arts Centre and council buildings are wheelchair-accessible (the Arts Centre lift needs prior notice); most hotels have accessible rooms, and the Royal Canal Greenway is level and surfaced.
If you have only an afternoon, spend it at Belvedere House and its Jealous Wall, then walk or cycle a stretch of the Royal Canal Greenway from the harbour – between them they show the best of what Mullingar has.