Overview
The Black Valley (Irish: Cummeenduff) lies at the southern end of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range in County Kerry. It is sandwiched between the Gap of Dunloe to the north and Moll’s Gap to the south, making it a natural gateway for walkers and cyclists heading into the heart of the Iveragh Peninsula. The valley’s remote character is underscored by the fact that it was one of the last mainland locations in Ireland to receive electricity and telephone service, only in 1976.
Access is straightforward: drive to Moll’s Gap on the R568, then follow the small side‑road marked “Gearhasallagh” which drops steeply north into the valley. The road is narrow and quiet, offering spectacular views of the surrounding peaks as you descend.
Landscape & Scenery
The valley is a classic U‑shaped glacial trough, its floor carpeted with blanket bog and interspersed with small lakes such as Lough Reagh and Lough Googh. Steep, craggy walls rise on either side, dominated by the peaks of Cnoc na Péiste, Maolán Bui and the iconic Caher. In good light the valley glows with a deep green hue, while mist often rolls in from the higher Reeks, creating an atmospheric backdrop for photography.
History & Background
While the exact origin of the name Black Valley is uncertain, one popular theory links it to the valley’s late arrival of modern utilities – the darkness of the night sky before the 1970s power lines arrived gave the area its moniker. Over the centuries the valley has remained sparsely populated, preserving a sense of wilderness that attracts walkers, cyclists and photographers alike.
The valley gained contemporary fame thanks to an abandoned stone cottage near Lough Reagh, colloquially called Molly’s Cottage or Slate House. Its eerie, weather‑worn façade has become a magnet for Instagrammers and fans of ruin photography. The exact location can be viewed on Google Maps.
What to See & Do
Walking the Kerry Way
The Black Valley forms a celebrated segment of the Kerry Way, a 215 km (134 mi) sign‑posted long‑distance trail that loops the Iveragh Peninsula. Stage 1 runs from Killarney to the valley (29 km, 550 m ascent), while Stage 2 continues from the Black Valley to Bridia Valley (16 km, 396 m climb). For those preferring a shorter outing, the Lough Googh circuit offers a 7 km moderate loop that skirts waterfalls and the lake’s shoreline.
Cycling the Gap‑Black Valley Loop
Cyclists can tackle a 56 km (3‑4 hour) loop that strings together the Gap of Dunloe, the Black Valley and Moll’s Gap. The route is celebrated as one of Ireland’s most scenic cycles, featuring steep descents into the valley and a rewarding climb up to Moll’s Gap. Key statistics are summarised below:
| Segment | Distance | Approx. Time | Climb | Descent |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full Loop | 56 km | 3‑4 hrs | 774 m | 774 m |
| Black Valley descent | 7 km | – | – | – |
Bike rentals are available in Killarney town, and the route can be followed via the free ActiveME smartphone app.
Molly’s Cottage (Slate House)
The abandoned cottage near Lough Reagh is a must‑stop for photographers. From the lake head north along the stream, take the right‑hand fork and continue until the stone walls appear. The site is free to visit and offers a striking contrast between the rugged valley and the weathered ruin.
Staying in the Valley
For an authentic base, consider The Black Valley Hostel, a family‑run establishment that has welcomed travellers for over six decades. The hostel provides clean, simple accommodation and a communal kitchen, making it ideal for walkers and cyclists needing a night’s rest before tackling the next stage.
Seasonal Highlights
Spring brings a carpet of purple heather and early wildflowers across the bogland, while summer offers long daylight hours for extended walks. Autumn colours are vivid, with golden‑brown heather and the occasional flash of red‑berry shrubs. Photographers often find the early morning mist over Molly’s Cottage most dramatic in late autumn and early winter.
Nearby Highlights
The valley sits within easy reach of several iconic Kerry attractions:
- Gap of Dunloe (20‑minute drive) – dramatic mountain pass with boat trips on the Lakes of Killarney.
- Moll’s Gap (30‑minute drive) – 19th‑century lodge with café and boat access via Ross Castle.
- Lord Brandon’s Cottage (10‑minute drive) – a popular viewpoint offering panoramic scenery.
- Ladies View (40‑minute drive) – remote mountain pass with sweeping vistas.
- Beaufort – gateway town to the Reeks and the Ring of Kerry, useful for supplies and additional accommodation.
- Beenkeragh – the second‑highest peak in the Reeks, visible from the valley floor and a rewarding side‑trip for experienced walkers.
- Baurtregaum – the highest summit of the Slieve Mish range, offering a contrasting coastal backdrop.
Practical Information
Getting there – From Killarney, follow the R568 east to Moll’s Gap, then turn north onto the Gearhasallagh side‑road. The road is narrow and may be shared with agricultural traffic; drive cautiously.
Parking – Free parking is available at the turn‑off near the valley entrance and at the Black Valley Hostel. Spaces are limited during peak summer weekends, so early arrival is advisable.
Cycling & Walking Gear – The valley’s roads are largely traffic‑free, but the descent from the Head of the Gap into the valley is steep; cyclists should test brakes before committing to high speed.
Accommodation – The Black Valley Hostel offers dormitory and private rooms; bookings can be made directly on their website. For a wider selection, Killarney’s hotels are a short 30‑minute drive away.
Facilities – There are no formal visitor centres in the valley. Public restrooms are available at the hostel and at the Moll’s Gap café.
Seasonality – The valley is accessible year‑round. The road can be icy in winter, so winter cyclists should use appropriate tyres.
Navigation – The Kerry Way is fully sign‑posted; however, mobile signal can be spotty in the deepest parts of the valley. Carry a physical map or download the route to a GPS device.
Safety – The steep downhill sections can be challenging for less‑experienced cyclists. Walkers should stay on marked paths, especially near the waterfalls of the Lough Googh circuit.
Local Services – The nearest medical centre is in Killarney, approximately 30 km away.