The mountain and the ridge
Beenkeragh (Irish Binn Chaorach, ‘sheep mountain’) is the second-highest mountain in Ireland at 1,008.2 m, and taken on its own it’s a fairly plain lump of purple sandstone. What makes it matter is the ridge on its southern side: a narrow, rocky arete that drops to a mid-point top called The Bones (Na Cnámha, 957 m) and then climbs to Carrauntoohil, the highest point in the country. That crossing is the reason to be up here. It’s a real scramble with long drops on both sides, and it’s the crux of the whole day.
The routes
Most people take Beenkeragh as part of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 12.6 km loop over Ireland’s three highest peaks – Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher – and one of the best mountain days in the country. Budget 6 to 8 hours; the old guidebook figure of four is optimistic unless you’re moving fast and the cloud stays off. The classic start is the parking just north of Lough Acoose on the west side, climbing over Skregmore before the ridge proper begins.
The alternative is the Hag’s Tooth Ridge from the south-east, out of Hag’s Glen. It climbs past the pointed Hag’s Tooth (650 m) and gives a closer look at the Eagle’s Nest corrie. Either way, the scrambling needs no ropes or technical gear, but it needs a head for heights and dry rock. In wind or ice the ridge turns into a mountaineering problem and should be left alone.
What you’ll see
The Reeks are built of purple sandstone and siltstone – the Ballinskelligs Sandstone Formation, laid down in the Devonian – and the reddish rock shows on the steeper ground. Ice did the rest, gouging out the corries and the U-shaped valleys.
The standout from the ridge is the Eagle’s Nest, a three-tiered corrie on Carrauntoohil’s north-east face. Its top shelf holds Lough Cummeenoughter, at 707 m the highest lake in Ireland – a cold, clear pool that a few hardy walkers swim in summer, if they’ll make the steep detour off the path.
Getting there and staying safe
- Parking: The classic route starts just north of Lough Acoose (west). Other trailheads are the Hydro Road car park near Glencar and Cronin’s Yard near Beaufort, which has a café, toilets and a small parking fee.
- Dogs: This is working sheep-farming ground. Some trailhead signs say dogs are not allowed at all, so the safest call is to leave them at home.
- Navigation: The routes are unmarked. Carry the OS Discovery 78 or the Harvey Superwalker 1:25,000, a compass and a charged GPS, because the paths vanish in cloud.
- Weather: Summer gives the best odds of dry rock and long daylight. Winter brings snow and ice that put the ridge out of reach for anyone without axe, crampons and the skill to use them.
- Land: The Reeks are private farmland. Keep to the paths, close gates, and don’t add to the erosion.
Guided walks and nearby
Guided scrambles of the Beenkeragh Ridge and the full Coomloughra Horseshoe run from Killarney-based operators, usually with transport and a safety briefing included – worth it if the arete sits at the edge of your comfort. Afterwards, Beaufort village is the handy spot to refuel, and the drive on towards Glenbeigh and the Ring of Kerry swaps the high ground for the coast.
If you do one thing on Beenkeragh, cross the arete to Carrauntoohil, but only in still, dry weather and only if steep exposed rock doesn’t rattle you. Start early, watch the cloud, and keep both hands free for The Bones.