Overview
Beenkeragh (Irish: Binn Chaorach, meaning “mountain of sheep”) stands at 1,008.2 m, making it the second-highest summit in Ireland. It forms the northern anchor of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks in County Kerry, a compact range of purple sandstone that holds Ireland’s three tallest peaks. While Beenkeragh lacks the sheer vertical drop of some Irish mountains, its true draw is the narrow, rocky arete that links it to Ireland’s highest point, Carrauntoohil. The ridge delivers sustained exposure and scrambling that tests even seasoned hill-walkers, set against a backdrop of deep glacial valleys and sweeping Atlantic horizons.
The Beenkeragh Ridge & Key Routes
Most visitors tackle Beenkeragh as part of the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 12-km loop widely regarded as one of Ireland’s finest ridge walks. The circuit typically takes 4–6 hours and connects three of Ireland’s highest peaks: Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh, and Caher Mountain. The approach from the west via the Hydro Road in Glencar climbs steadily through heather and grass before reaching the rocky summit of Skregmore. From there, the path follows a high ridge to Beenkeragh’s summit cairn.
The real challenge begins after the summit. The Beenkeragh Ridge drops sharply toward a subsidiary peak known as The Bones (Na Cnámha, 957 m) before climbing back up to Carrauntoohil. This section is a knife-edge scramble with steep drops on either side. It demands sure-footedness, a head for heights, and careful route-finding. In windy or icy conditions, the ridge becomes hazardous and should be avoided entirely.
For a more direct ascent, the Hag’s Tooth Ridge starts from the south-east via Hag’s Glen. Walkers climb past the distinctive Hag’s Tooth outcrop and follow a steep, rocky path up to Beenkeragh. This route offers close-up views of the Eagle’s Nest corrie and is often combined with a descent via the Heavenly Gates path on Carrauntoohil’s east face. Another demanding option is the Stumpa an tSáimh Ridge, which starts at Cronin’s Yard and involves careful scrambling over exposed rock before linking to the main ridge system.
Geology & Landscape
The Reeks are built on the Ballinskelligs Sandstone Formation, a Devonian-age bedrock of purple sandstone and siltstone that dates back over 300 million years. Chemical oxidation gave the rock its characteristic reddish-purple hue, which is still visible on the steeper slopes and ridge lines. During the last ice age, glaciers carved the landscape into its current dramatic form, scooping out U-shaped valleys and deep cirques.
One of the most striking features visible from the summit is the Eagle’s Nest, a three-tiered corrie tucked against Carrauntoohil’s north-east face. At its highest level sits Lough Cummeenoughter, Ireland’s highest lake. The lake’s clear, cold waters and sandy bottom make it a popular (if wild) swimming spot in summer, though reaching it requires a steep detour off the main ridge path.
Practical Information & Safety
- Access & Parking: The main trailheads are the Hydro Road car park near Glencar (west) and Cronin’s Yard near Beaufort (south-east). Cronin’s Yard charges a modest €2 parking fee and provides basic facilities, including a café and toilets.
- Dogs: Dogs are strictly prohibited on the mountain. The Reeks are private land used extensively for sheep farming, and straying dogs can cause serious distress to livestock. Signage at trailheads clearly states this rule, and enforcement is taken seriously by landowners and mountain rescue teams.
- Navigation & Gear: Routes are unmarked and rely on clear paths that can become obscured in fog or snow. Carry a detailed 1:25,000 map (OS Discovery 78 or Harvey Superwalker), a compass, and a fully charged GPS device. Sturdy boots with ankle support are essential. The ridge scrambling does not require technical climbing gear, but a helmet is recommended for the more exposed sections.
- Weather: Conditions change rapidly. Summer offers the most reliable visibility, while winter brings snow, ice, and high winds that transform the ridge into a mountaineering objective. Always check a mountain-specific forecast before setting out and allow plenty of daylight.
- Land Access: The MacGillycuddy’s Reeks are privately owned. Walkers are expected to respect farm boundaries, keep to established paths to minimise erosion, and close all gates behind them.
Guided Walks & Nearby
If you prefer to tackle the ridge with an experienced lead, Morrison Tours and Kerry Climbing offer guided scrambles of the Beenkeragh Ridge and the full Coomloughra Horseshoe. These outings include transport from Killarney or Beaufort, route guidance, and safety briefings tailored to your group’s fitness level.
After descending, the village of Beaufort makes a practical base for recovery, with cafés, pubs, and the Reeks District visitor information point. For those continuing their exploration of the Iveragh Peninsula, the coastal drive toward Glenbeigh and the Ring of Kerry offers a stark contrast to the high-altitude terrain.
Beenkeragh is not a summit for casual strolls, but it delivers a raw, unfiltered mountain experience that defines Irish hill-walking. Start early, check the ridge conditions, and keep your eyes on the path as you cross the Bones. The effort pays off with a clear view down to Lough Leane and the Atlantic beyond, a reminder of why this range has drawn walkers to its purple ridges for generations.