Overview
This is the only walk in Ireland that strings together the country’s three highest summits in one day: Carrauntoohil at 1,038.6 m, Beenkeragh at about 1,010 m and Caher at around 1,001 m. The circuit starts from the Hydro Road car park near Glencar and rings a horseshoe-shaped glacial corrie holding three lakes – Lough Eighter lowest, Lough Coomloughra in the middle and Lough Eagher highest – which together feed much of the region’s water supply. It runs roughly 12 to 13 km with about 1,300 m of ascent, and a fit party will need six to eight hours.
Should you do this one?
The whole route turns on one section: the Beenkeragh Ridge, a knife-edge arête with serious drops on both sides and hands-on scrambling. If you have a head for exposure and some mountain experience, it is the finest ridge day in the country. If you don’t, this is the wrong route, and there’s no shame in it – the Caher (Coomloughra) route up the southern rim reaches Carrauntoohil by far gentler ground and skips the arête entirely. Kerry Mountain Rescue rate that one as relatively straightforward; the full horseshoe they do not. Be honest with yourself at the car park, not halfway along the ridge.
Walking the horseshoe (clockwise)
Most walkers tackle the circuit clockwise, saving the exposed Beenkeragh Ridge for the middle section when energy levels are still high.
- Hydro Track to Lough Eighter: Leave the car park and follow the steep concrete lane upward. The first half-mile gains about 500 ft steadily before reaching the dam at Lough Eighter. The path is well-graded and offers early glimpses over the surrounding pasture.
- Cnoc Íochtair and Skregmore: Beyond the dam, the concrete ends and the terrain turns stony and pathless. You will climb the shoulder of Cnoc Íochtair (747 m) before tackling Skregmore (848 m). This section accounts for roughly half the total elevation gain and crosses a series of minor rocky tops.
- Beenkeragh and the Ridge: From Skregmore, the ground narrows and becomes increasingly rocky. A short scramble leads to the summit of Beenkeragh, where the famed ridge begins. The arête is knife-edge in places. Use both hands for balance, keep a steady rhythm, and focus on your footing. The ridge undulates before dropping into the col below Carrauntoohil.
- Carrauntoohil summit: A steep, rocky pull leads to the top, marked by a stone shelter and the large metal summit cross. On a clear day the view runs from the Beara peninsula to the Atlantic; in cloud, this is exactly where careful navigation matters, as the safe line on and off the summit is not obvious.
- Caher Ridge and descent: Head south along a broader, less exposed ridge to Caher and its subsidiary tops (Caher West, Caher West Top). The ground gradually eases into grassy slopes that lead back toward Lough Eighter and down the concrete road to the car park.
Planning & preparation
This is not a casual stroll. The Reeks are privately owned farming land, and the route is completely unmarked. Success depends on preparation:
- Navigation: Carry a detailed OSI Discovery Series map (Sheet 78) or a Harvey Superwalker mountain map. A compass and solid map-reading skills are mandatory, particularly when fog rolls in over the col. GPS tracks are available from the ActiveME guide, but never rely on a phone screen alone in the mountains.
- Gear: Sturdy ankle-supporting boots are essential. Bring a waterproof jacket, warm layers, trekking poles, and at least 1.5 L of water. Many walkers carry a helmet for the exposed ridge sections, though it remains optional.
- Timing: Start early. Summer days bring longer shadows and higher foot traffic, while autumn and spring offer quieter conditions but shorter daylight hours.
- Dogs: Not permitted. The Reeks are grazed year-round and access depends on the goodwill of the landowners, so leave the dog at home.
Safety & access
Weather in the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks changes fast, and the Beenkeragh Ridge is no place to be in high wind or ice – wind on an arête is the single thing most likely to turn this walk into a rescue. Check the Met Éireann mountain forecast before setting out, and be willing to turn back. In an emergency, dial 999 or 112 and ask for Mountain Rescue; give your grid reference (the start is around V771 870) and a clear description of where you are.
Extending your day
The village of Beaufort is a short drive away and works as the gateway to the Reeks, with cafés and B&Bs for afterwards. For a quieter wind-down, the Black Valley to the south offers gentle valley-floor trails to walk the stiffness out.
The single most useful thing you can do is start early – be on the Hydro Road by first light. Parking is limited, the ridge is best crossed before the afternoon wind gets up, and a 12 km mountain day in the Reeks fills more hours than the distance suggests.