Overview
Lough Coomloughra is a high-altitude glacial lake set deep within the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Ireland’s highest mountain range. At the foot of Carrauntoohil (1,039 m), the country’s tallest summit, the lake sits in a natural amphitheatre alongside the smaller Lough Eighter and Lough Eagher. Its clear, cold waters are fed by mountain streams and historically supplied the surrounding region with fresh water, a fact still visible in the old pipes and valves along the shoreline.
The lake draws hikers, climbers and anglers to its remote basin. Brown trout and rainbow trout hold in the deep water, while the surrounding crags provide hunting grounds for golden eagles, buzzards and ravens. In winter, the surface can freeze solid, reflecting the stark, snow-capped peaks above.
History & Background
The Reeks were carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age, and the three lakes of the Coomloughra system are direct remnants of that period. The name Coomloughra comes from the Irish Gleann na gCoillte, translating to “glen of the rushes”. The land around the lake has long been worked by local sheep farmers, a reality that still shapes visitor access today. A prominent “NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT” sign at the trailhead reflects the strict protection of livestock in the area.
Modern access to the lake was established in the mid-20th century with a hydro-electric project. The concrete “Hydro Track” road was built to service the dam at the outlet of Lough Eighter. Today, the car park at its base serves as the main gateway for walkers. The dam and its spillway are clearly visible from the track, making a convenient short stop for those who prefer not to tackle the full mountain circuit.
What to See & Do
The Coomloughra Horseshoe
The signature experience here is the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 12 km (8 mi) loop that climbs Ireland’s three highest summits: Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher. The route gains roughly 1,300 m (4,265 ft) in elevation and typically takes 6 to 8 hours for fit, experienced hikers. Key features along the ridge include:
- Skregmore (848 m) – A series of rocky bumps that form the first major ascent from the valley floor.
- Beenkeragh Ridge – A narrow, exposed knife-edge linking Beenkeragh (1,010 m) to Carrauntoohil. It requires sure-footedness and comfort with exposure, though it is not a technical climb.
- Carrauntoohil summit cross – A 4-metre steel cross that marks the highest point in Ireland and offers sweeping views on clear days.
- Caher and Caher West – The third-highest peak (1,001 m) and its subsidiary top, dropping back down into the lake basin with dramatic drop-offs.
The Devil’s Ladder (Advanced Route)
For highly experienced navigators, the Devil’s Ladder offers a steep, unmarked ascent that begins near the Hydro Track car park and climbs directly to Carrauntoohil. The route is not maintained and can be difficult to locate in mist or poor visibility. Hikers should carry a detailed map, a compass, and an up-to-date GPS track before attempting it.
Fishing & Wildlife
Anglers can cast for brown and rainbow trout from the lake’s edge. The water is consistently cold and clear, creating ideal conditions for fly fishing. Birdwatchers will often spot raptors circling the crags, particularly in the early morning. Golden eagles are most active in late summer, while buzzards and ravens remain year-round residents of the Reeks.
The Black Mare Cliff
The sheer western wall of the corrie is known locally as the Black Mare. Its dark rock face and cascading streams give the impression of a horse’s tail, especially after heavy rain. It forms a striking backdrop for photographs and is best viewed from the eastern shore or the nearby ridge paths.
Seasonal Highlights
- Winter (December–February) – The lake can freeze solid, creating a stark, mirror-like surface against the snow-covered peaks. The route becomes highly exposed; only attempt it in clear weather with appropriate winter gear.
- Spring (April–May) – Snowmelt swells the mountain streams, making the Horseshoe particularly scenic. This is the recommended window for a full circuit, as weather patterns are relatively stable and wildflowers begin to dot the lower slopes.
- Summer (June–August) – Longer daylight hours allow for a more relaxed pace, but afternoon thunderstorms are frequent. An early start is essential for clear visibility and safe ridge crossing.
- Autumn (September–October) – Foliage turns golden on the lower slopes, and the lake reflects the changing colours. Raptors become more active as they feed on autumn migration, making it a prime time for eagle spotting.
Practical Information
Access & Parking – The primary trailhead is the Hydro Track car park at the base of the concrete road. The lot is small, accommodating roughly 20 vehicles, and fills quickly during the high season (mid-April to late May). Arriving early on weekdays or during the shoulder seasons usually guarantees a space.
Navigation – The Horseshoe is not way-marked. Hikers should carry a detailed OSI map (Sheet 78) or a reliable digital mapping app such as OpenStreetMap or WikiLoc. The Devil’s Ladder route is especially poorly signposted; a GPS track is strongly recommended.
Land Use & Etiquette – The surrounding pasture is privately owned and actively used for sheep farming. A small donation box near the lake allows visitors to contribute to the farmers’ upkeep of the path. Please respect livestock, keep to the established track, and leave no trace.
Dogs – Dogs are strictly prohibited throughout the Reeks due to active farming and the risk to livestock. The “NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT” warning is enforced by landowners, and visitors must leave pets at home.
Facilities – There are no permanent facilities at the lake. A bench with a table sits roughly 50 m from the trailhead, offering a place to rest before the ascent. Water is available from the lake but should be filtered or treated before drinking.
Safety – The Reeks are a serious mountain environment. Weather can change rapidly, and the ridges are exposed to strong winds. In an emergency, call 999/112 and request “Mountain Rescue”. Carry a fully charged phone, a power bank, and a basic first-aid kit. Kerry Mountain Rescue operates in the area and maintains up-to-date route notes.
Nearby Attractions – After completing the Horseshoe, the Hydro Track continues down to the dam at Lough Eighter, where the spillway can be viewed from the road – a short, accessible stop for photographs. The village of Beaufort lies a short drive away and serves as a convenient base for accommodation, food and additional Reeks walks. The trailhead is accessed via the R568 road from Killarney, approximately 30 km west of the town. Public transport does not serve the car park, so a private vehicle is required.
Cost – Access to the lake and the trail is free; there is no admission fee.
Travel Tips While Lough Coomloughra sits away from the main Ring of Kerry road, the famous 179 km scenic loop passes close to the Reeks foothills. Drivers can enjoy sweeping views of the mountains from the Ring, then turn onto the R568 to reach the Hydro Track car park. The route offers several informal viewpoints over the Reeks, and the dam at Lough Eighter provides a quick, accessible photo opportunity for those not tackling the full horseshoe. Always check the Mountain Weather Ireland forecast before heading out, and remember that mobile reception drops to zero once you leave the valley floor.