Overview
Lough Coomloughra sits in a glacial bowl directly under Carrauntoohil (1,038.6 m), Ireland’s highest mountain, hemmed in by Beenkeragh and Caher – the country’s second- and third-highest. It is less a destination in its own right than the floor of the finest mountain round in Ireland: the Coomloughra Horseshoe traces the skyline the whole way round it. Alongside sit the smaller Lough Eighter and Lough Eagher, remnants of the same glacier.
The cold, clear water is fed by mountain streams and once supplied the district with drinking water, which is why you’ll still find old pipes and valves along the shore. Brown trout hold in the deep, and golden eagles, buzzards and ravens work the crags above. In a hard winter the surface can freeze solid enough for the occasional angler to fish through the ice.
History & Background
The Reeks were carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age, and the three lakes of the Coomloughra system are direct remnants of that period. The name comes from the Irish Com Luachra, ‘hollow of the rushes’ – not, as sometimes claimed, a ‘glen of the woods’. The land around the lake has long been worked by sheep farmers, and that still shapes access today: a blunt ‘NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT’ sign at the trailhead means exactly what it says.
Modern access to the lake was established in the mid-20th century with a hydro-electric project. The concrete “Hydro Track” road was built to service the dam at the outlet of Lough Eighter. Today, the car park at its base is the main gateway for walkers. The dam and its spillway are clearly visible from the track, making a convenient short stop for those who prefer not to tackle the full mountain circuit.
What to See & Do
The Coomloughra Horseshoe
The signature experience here is the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 12 km (8 mi) loop that climbs Ireland’s three highest summits: Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher. The route gains roughly 1,300 m (4,265 ft) in elevation and typically takes 6 to 8 hours for fit, experienced hikers. Key features along the ridge include:
- Skregmore (848 m) – A series of rocky bumps that form the first major ascent from the valley floor.
- Beenkeragh Ridge – A narrow, exposed knife-edge linking Beenkeragh (1,010 m) to Carrauntoohil. It requires sure-footedness and comfort with exposure, though it is not a technical climb.
- Carrauntoohil summit cross – A 4-metre steel cross that marks the highest point in Ireland and offers sweeping views on clear days.
- Caher and Caher West – The third-highest peak (1,001 m) and its subsidiary top, dropping back down into the lake basin with steep drop-offs.
The Devil’s Ladder – a different way up
The Devil’s Ladder is the most-walked route up Carrauntoohil, but it has nothing to do with the Coomloughra side of the mountain. It climbs from the Hag’s Glen, reached from Cronin’s Yard to the east – not from the Hydro Track. It is an eroded, loose gully rather than a path: unmarked, and hard to find in mist. Wikipedia calls it the ‘easiest route’ up the mountain, which is true only in the sense that it is the least technical. It still needs a map, compass, a GPS track, and the sense to turn back in bad weather.
Fishing & Wildlife
Anglers can cast for brown trout from the lake’s edge; the water is cold and clear, and few people bother to carry a rod this high, so you’ll likely have it to yourself. Overhead, buzzards and ravens are year-round residents of the crags, and golden eagles – reintroduced to Kerry – are most active in late summer.
Seasonal Highlights
- Winter (December–February) – The lake can freeze solid, creating a stark, mirror-like surface against the snow-covered peaks. The route becomes highly exposed; only attempt it in clear weather with appropriate winter gear.
- Spring (April–May) – Snowmelt swells the mountain streams, making the Horseshoe particularly scenic. This is the recommended window for a full circuit, as weather patterns are relatively stable and wildflowers begin to dot the lower slopes.
- Summer (June–August) – Longer daylight hours allow for a more relaxed pace, but afternoon thunderstorms are frequent. An early start is essential for clear visibility and safe ridge crossing.
- Autumn (September–October) – Foliage turns golden on the lower slopes, and the lake reflects the changing colours. Raptors become more active as they feed on autumn migration, making it a prime time for eagle spotting.
Practical Information
Access & Parking – The trailhead is at the start of the Hydro Track (grid ref V 771 870), on the Killorglin–Glencar road about 2 km north-east of the turn for Lough Acoose. Parking is limited: there’s space around 400 m up the road towards Killorglin, and a newer tarmac pull-in just before the metal gates on the Killorglin side. A wooden gate and a metal gate with a Kerry Mountain Rescue notice mark the start. Get there early on a fine weekend, or you’ll be parking a long walk away.
Navigation – The Horseshoe is not way-marked. Hikers should carry a detailed OSI map (Sheet 78) or a reliable digital mapping app such as OpenStreetMap or WikiLoc. The Devil’s Ladder route is especially poorly signposted; a GPS track is strongly recommended.
Land Use & Etiquette – The surrounding pasture is privately owned and actively grazed by sheep. There’s no national park here and no official right of way; access is by the landowners’ goodwill, so keep to the established track, respect livestock and leave no trace.
Dogs – Dogs are strictly prohibited throughout the Reeks due to active farming and the risk to livestock. The “NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT” warning is enforced by landowners, and visitors must leave pets at home.
Facilities – There are no permanent facilities at the lake. A bench with a table sits roughly 50 m from the trailhead, offering a place to rest before the ascent. Water is available from the lake but should be filtered or treated before drinking.
Safety – The Reeks are a serious mountain environment. Weather can change rapidly, and the ridges are exposed to strong winds. In an emergency, call 999/112 and request “Mountain Rescue”. Carry a fully charged phone, a power bank, and a basic first-aid kit. Kerry Mountain Rescue operates in the area and maintains up-to-date route notes.
Nearby Attractions – After completing the Horseshoe, the Hydro Track continues down to the dam at Lough Eighter, where the spillway can be viewed from the road – a short, accessible stop for photographs. The village of Beaufort lies a short drive away and serves as a convenient base for accommodation, food and additional Reeks walks. The trailhead is accessed via the R568 road from Killarney, approximately 30 km west of the town. Public transport does not serve the car park, so a private vehicle is required.
Cost – Access to the lake and the trail is free; there is no admission fee.
Travel Tips While Lough Coomloughra sits away from the main Ring of Kerry road, the famous 179 km scenic loop passes close to the Reeks foothills. Drivers can enjoy sweeping views of the mountains from the Ring, then turn onto the R568 to reach the Hydro Track car park. The route offers several informal viewpoints over the Reeks, and the dam at Lough Eighter provides a quick, accessible photo opportunity for those not tackling the full horseshoe. Always check the Mountain Weather Ireland forecast before heading out, and remember that mobile reception drops to zero once you leave the valley floor.