Overview
Lough Coomloughra is a high‑altitude glacial lake set deep within the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, the highest mountain range in Ireland. At the foot of Carrauntoohil (1,039 m), the country’s tallest summit, the lake sits in a natural amphitheatre that also contains the smaller Lough Eighter and Lough Eagher. Its clear, cold waters are fed by mountain streams and, intriguingly, supply much of the surrounding region with fresh water – a fact you can see for yourself in the visible pipes and valves that line the shoreline.
The lake is a magnet for hikers, climbers and anglers. Brown trout and rainbow trout thrive in its depths, while the surrounding crags host golden eagles, buzzards and ravens. In winter the surface can freeze, creating a stark, mirror‑like tableau of the surrounding peaks.
History & Background
The Reeks were shaped during the last Ice Age, and the three lakes that form the Coomloughra system are remnants of that glacial activity. The name Coomloughra derives from the Irish Gleann na gCoillte – “glen of the rushes”. Historically the land around the lake has been owned by sheep farmers, a fact that still influences access: a prominent “NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT” sign warns visitors to keep pets under control.
The area gained modern fame through the development of a hydro‑electric project in the mid‑20th century. The concrete “Hydro Track” road was built to service the dam at the outlet of Lough Eighter, and the car park at its base – officially listed as Carrauntoohil Parking Hydro Track Carpark (grid reference N52° 01.377′ W9° 47.365′) – now serves as the main gateway for walkers. From this car park the dam and its spillway are clearly visible, making a popular short viewpoint for those not tackling the full horseshoe.
What to See & Do
The Coomloughra Horseshoe
The signature experience is the Coomloughra Horseshoe, a 12 km (8 mi) loop that tackles Ireland’s three highest summits: Carrauntoohil, Beenkeragh and Caher. The route climbs a total of roughly 1,300 m (4,265 ft) and typically takes 6–8 hours for fit, experienced hikers. Highlights include:
- Skregmore (848 m) – a series of rocky bumps that provide the first major ascent.
- Beenkeragh Ridge – a narrow, exposed knife‑edge ridge linking Beenkeragh (1,010 m) to Carrauntoohil. The ridge is not technically a climb but demands sure‑footedness and a head for heights.
- Carrauntoohil summit cross – a 4‑metre steel cross that dominates the skyline on clear days.
- Caher and Caher West – the third‑highest peak (1,001 m) and its subsidiary top, offering spectacular views back down into the lake basin.
The Devil’s Ladder (Advanced Route)
For the very experienced, the Devil’s Ladder is a steep, unmarked ascent that begins near the Hydro Track car park and climbs directly to the summit of Carrauntoohil. It is not maintained by any authority and is best attempted with up‑to‑date GPS tracks (e.g., the GPX file linked on the Jerre blog) and a solid map‑and‑compass skill set.
Fishing & Wildlife
Anglers can cast for brown and rainbow trout from the lake’s edge; the water is cold and clear, providing good conditions for fly fishing. Birdwatchers will often spot birds of prey circling the crags, especially in the early morning light. Golden eagles are most commonly seen in late summer, while buzzards and ravens are year‑round residents.
The Black Mare Cliff
The sheer western wall of the corrie is known locally as the Black Mare because its dark rock face and cascading streams resemble a horse’s tail. It is a striking backdrop for photographs, especially when the water rushes down after rain.
Seasonal Highlights
- Winter (December–February) – The lake can freeze solid, offering dramatic photographic opportunities. Snow‑covered peaks create a classic alpine scene, but the route becomes more exposed; only attempt in good weather and with proper equipment.
- Spring (April–May) – Snowmelt swells the mountain streams, making the Horseshoe especially scenic. This is the recommended window for a full circuit, as the weather is relatively stable and the wildflowers begin to appear on the lower slopes.
- Summer (June–August) – Longer daylight hours allow for a more relaxed pace, but afternoon thunderstorms are common. Early‑morning starts are advisable for clear views.
- Autumn (September–October) – The foliage turns golden, and the lake’s surface reflects the changing colours. Bird activity increases as raptors feed on the autumn migration, making it a good time for eagle spotting.
Practical Information
Access & Parking – The primary trailhead is the Hydro Track car park at the base of the concrete road. The lot is small, fitting roughly 20 cars, and can fill quickly in the high season (mid‑April to end of May). Arriving early in the low season often means an empty lot, as described by hikers who have slept there overnight.
Navigation – The Horseshoe is not way‑marked. Hikers should carry a detailed OSI map (Sheet 78) or a reliable digital map such as OpenStreetMap, WikiLoc or OSMAnd. The Devil’s Ladder route is especially poorly signposted; a GPS track is strongly recommended.
Land Use – The surrounding pasture is privately owned and used for sheep farming. A small donation box near the lake allows visitors to contribute to the farmers’ upkeep of the path. Respect livestock and keep to the established track.
Dogs – Dogs are prohibited throughout the Reeks due to active farming and the risk to livestock. The “NO DOGS – DOGS MAY BE SHOT” warning is enforced by landowners.
Facilities – There are no permanent facilities at the lake. A bench with a table sits about 50 m from the trailhead, offering a place to rest before the ascent. Water is available from the lake but should be treated before drinking.
Seasonality – The best window for a full Horseshoe is late spring to early summer (April‑May) when the mountain streams are full but the weather is still relatively stable. The route is exposed; strong winds or rain make the Beenkeragh Ridge hazardous.
Safety – The Reeks are a serious mountain environment. In an emergency call 999/112 and request “Mountain Rescue”. Carry a fully charged phone, a power bank, and a basic first‑aid kit. The area is covered by Kerry Mountain Rescue, which maintains up‑to‑date route notes.
Nearby attractions – After completing the Horseshoe, the Hydro Track continues down to the dam at Lough Eighter, where the spillway (often called “Egg Lake”) can be viewed from the track – a short, easy stop for photos. The village of Beaufort lies a short drive away and serves as a convenient base for accommodation, food and additional Reeks walks.
Travel – The trailhead is accessed via the R568 road from Killarney, about 30 km west of the town. Public transport does not serve the car park; a private vehicle is required. The nearest bus stop is in Killarney, and the closest train station is also Killarney.
Cost – Access to the lake and the trail is free; there is no admission fee.
Nearby drives & attractions
While Lough Coomloughra sits away from the main Ring of Kerry road, the famous 179 km scenic loop passes close to the Reeks foothills. Drivers can enjoy spectacular views of the mountains from the Ring, then turn onto the R568 to reach the Hydro Track car park. The route offers opportunities to stop at viewpoints over the Reeks, and the dam at Lough Eighter provides a quick, accessible photo spot for those not tackling the full horseshoe.
Enjoy the raw beauty of Lough Coomloughra, where the silence of the water meets the roar of the wind over Ireland’s highest peaks.