Overview
At 1,038.6 m, Carrauntoohil is the highest point in Ireland, but height isn’t what makes it serious. The Devil’s Ladder, the standard route to the top, is a gully of loose scree that has eroded badly and funnels dislodged rock onto anyone climbing below. People die on this mountain most years, usually through late starts, being caught by darkness on the descent, or rockfall. Treat it as a full mountain day, carry a map and compass, and don’t go up in cloud unless you can navigate in it.
The mountain sits on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, the central peak of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. It’s built of Old Red Sandstone, a purplish Devonian rock that glaciers carved into U-shaped valleys, knife-edge arêtes and deep corries like the Eagle’s Nest. The summit gives a 360° sweep over Beenkeragh, Caher, the Black Valley and, on a clear day, the Atlantic.
Ownership and the summit cross
Unlike most of Ireland’s big hills, the Reeks are privately owned – by the Doona and O’Shea families and James Sullivan, who bought the freehold from the Irish Land Commission in the early 1900s. There is no national park here. Access has long been granted by the owners, but visitor numbers above 140,000 a year have put real pressure on the paths.
A wooden cross stood on the summit from the 1950s, replaced by a steel one in 1976. A protester cut it down in 2014; locals had it back up within days. Danger signs are posted at the summit and above the Howling Ridge, where the eastern faces drop away sharply.
The routes
If it’s your first time and you’re not with a guide, the Devil’s Ladder from Cronin’s Yard is the route to take – it’s the most direct and the most travelled.
Devil’s Ladder (the classic)
The path starts at Cronin’s Yard in the Hag’s Glen, crosses stepping stones over the Gaddagh River, then climbs the steep, loose scree of the Devil’s Ladder to the col at Cnoc na Toinne before a final pull to the summit. Around 12 km return, 4–6 hours. The ladder is the crux: keep well clear of parties above and below, because anything they kick loose comes straight down.
Alternatives from Cronin’s Yard
- O’Shea’s Gully branches off before the ladder and climbs a gentler gully to the Eagle’s Nest corrie, with a few short scrambles and good views of the north-east face.
- The Zig Zags (Bóthair na Gige) and The Bone skirt the worst of the eroded ladder on clearer footing, leading to The Bone, the narrow arête linking Carrauntoohil to Beenkeragh. A favourite for the ridge walking.
The bigger days
- Coomloughra Horseshoe – a roughly 12 km ridge circuit of the Coomloughra valley taking in Skregmore, Beenkeragh, The Bones and Carrauntoohil, descending via Caher. Widely rated one of Ireland’s finest ridge walks; 6–8 hours.
- Stumpa an tSaimh – Beenkeragh ridge – about 15 km of demanding ground with real exposure on the Beenkeragh ridge, for experienced scramblers only.
Caher Trail (the quieter way)
The Caher Trail starts at the Hydro Track car-park near Lough Acoose, follows a steep concrete tractor road that becomes a footpath beside Lough Eighter, then climbs Caher (1,001 m) before the ridge across to Carrauntoohil. It stays lower and less exposed than the Devil’s Ladder, which makes it a solid non-technical choice – but it’s longer than the map suggests, so allow 4–6 hours and a full set of layers.
Features worth the detour
- Eagle’s Nest corrie – a three-level bowl on the north-east face holding Lough Cummeenoughter, at 707 m the highest lake in Ireland, reached through the Heavenly Gates gap.
- Rock and winter climbing – the east and north-east faces hold multi-pitch routes, the best known being Howling Ridge (V-Diff). In winter, around seven grade-V lines come into condition among roughly eighty climbing routes across the Reeks.
Seasonal considerations
The Reeks change weather fast. Summer gives the longest daylight but even July brings sudden rain and thick fog. Spring (April–May) means alpine flowers and fewer people; autumn colours the lower slopes. Winter is another sport entirely – snow and ice make the ridges hazardous and the grade-V routes are for equipped mountaineers only. Check Met Éireann before you set off.
Flora and fauna
The high ground supports alpine plants such as mountain avens, alpine saxifrages and dwarf willow. In the lower corries look for red-billed choughs, golden plovers and the occasional merlin. The lakes and streams hold brown trout.
Practical information
| Route | Distance | Approx. time | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Devil’s Ladder (Cronin’s Yard) | ~12 km | 4–6 hrs | Strenuous |
| O’Shea’s Gully (Cronin’s Yard) | ~13 km | 5–6 hrs | Strenuous |
| Coomloughra Horseshoe | ~12 km | 6–8 hrs | Strenuous |
| Stumpa an tSaimh – Beenkeragh | ~15 km | Full day | Difficult |
| Caher Trail (Hydro Track) | Longer than it looks | 4–6 hrs | Moderate |
Getting there and parking
The usual start is Cronin’s Yard, about 15 km north-east of Killarney via the N72 and a turn-off onto a gravel road. It has a tea-room, toilets, a shower and camping pods – but note the café and bathrooms shut around 3pm, so they’re no use to you coming off the hill late. Parking costs €2 per car, coins only, paid on exit at an automatic barrier, and the car-park fills early in summer.
For the Caher Trail and Coomloughra Horseshoe, use the Hydro Track car-park near Lough Acoose. Parking there is free but limited and goes quickly in peak season.
Navigation and safety
- There’s no national park and no waymarking beyond the trailheads – a map and compass (or a reliable GPS app) are essential, and you need to be able to use them.
- The KMRT records dozens of rescues a year, many from late departures, descents in the dark, or rockfall on eroded ground.
- The Heavenly Gates route is unmarked and dangerous in poor visibility – experienced climbers only.
- Dogs are allowed but must be controlled around livestock and ground-nesting birds.
Guided options
If you’re not confident with mountain navigation, Kerry Climbing and The Lodge and Reeks Guiding Company run guided days, usually with transport from Killarney and a leader who knows the routes and the weather.
Nearby attractions
Beaufort lies a short drive off and has accommodation and Reeks information. The Black Valley is a scenic, quiet drive with access to less-trodden walks. Caher and its ridge can be linked into a full Reeks circuit from either trailhead, and Lough Eighter beside the Caher Trail makes a good rest stop.
Start early. Beat the midday crowds, give yourself daylight in hand for the descent, and carry more layers than you think you’ll need – the weather above the col rarely matches the weather in the car-park.